Reinstalling transmission, won't seat against engine

[gw33gp]

One issue I've had is with the two guide sleeves on either side of the engine that locate the bell housing. Sometimes they fit tight and make it difficult to push the transmission bell housing up to the engine. Once it is that far, I put the bolts in those threads inside the sleeves to pull it in. I make sure not to use much torque just in case something else is causing the problem. I also use the other bell housing bolts to make sure the transmission is being pulled against the engine evenly.

 

[American_Carr]

1994 2.3. Hey I am having the SAME exact issue you are having right now. I have used the transmission bolts to bring the transmission to the engine and well... you were right, the clutch will NOT disengage! I checked my clutch alignment 3 times now, replaced the slave and master cylinder, clutch and pressure plate, and the pilot bearing. What did you do to overcome this issue?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

1994 2.3. Hey I am having the SAME exact issue you are having right now. I have used the transmission bolts to bring the transmission to the engine and well... you were right, the clutch will NOT disengage! I checked my clutch alignment 3 times now, replaced the slave and master cylinder, clutch and pressure plate, and the pilot bearing. What did you do to overcome this issue?

Might be air in the line somehow...it does happen. Have you tried bleeding the master/slave cyls manually or with a mighty vac? I've had that issue before. Its been awhile but I think I bled it at the slave cyl. Besides that I've had the linkage pop off at the pedal. its currently got safety wire to prevent it from happening again.

 

[American_Carr]

Might be air in the line somehow...it does happen. Have you tried bleeding the master/slave cyls manually or with a mighty vac? I've had that issue before. Its been awhile but I think I bled it at the slave cyl. Besides that I've had the linkage pop off at the pedal. its currently got safety wire to prevent it from happening again.

I have bled it manually at the slave cylinder just like you would if you were bleeding the brakes. my gf pushed the clutch petal while I opened the closed the bleeder screw at the slave. I did take the tranny back out today and took another look, put it back together (of course having to use tranny bolts just to get it to sit flush with the engine), and it still won't disengage.

I'm really starting to get disappointed in this because I was wanting to save a ton of money just replacing the clutch myself and now it just doesn't want to work.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I have bled it manually at the slave cylinder just like you would if you were bleeding the brakes. my gf pushed the clutch petal while I opened the closed the bleeder screw at the slave. I did take the tranny back out today and took another look, put it back together (of course having to use tranny bolts just to get it to sit flush with the engine), and it still won't disengage.

I'm really starting to get disappointed in this because I was wanting to save a ton of money just replacing the clutch myself and now it just doesn't want to work.

So you have pedal pressure?
It should still go through gears w the engine off.
If no pedal pressure make sure linkage is good. Mine popped off once as mentioned (while driving).
Otherwise could be a defective part. Ive had DOA parts more often lately. Especially non oem after.arket brands.
Might wanna try a mighty vac. Ive had stubborn hydraulics not respond until I used a vacuum bleeder. Then it worked in 2 seconds smh.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I forgot to add might be something silly like it needs a spin to align. Maybe give it a crank in neutral, kill it and try.

 

[RobbieD]

Usually stabbing a manual back in, is finding the "sweet spot" where everything is aligned properly. This can be hard to do when just muscling the transmission in. Support for the mission, such as a floor jack; ratchet straps to the frame, or temporary long bolts at 3:00 and 9:00 positions, takes a lot of the dead weight load and let's you have the finesse to "get the wiggle" right.

But I have run into the transmission input shaft splines being dead on the clutch disc splines; in other words, the input shaft not "meshing" into the clutch disc. Try this: with the transmission almost there, put it 5th gear and turn the output shaft; once the splines align properly the mission will seat.

 

[American_Carr]

So you have pedal pressure?
It should still go through gears w the engine off.
If no pedal pressure make sure linkage is good. Mine popped off once as mentioned (while driving).
Otherwise could be a defective part. Ive had DOA parts more often lately. Especially non oem after.arket brands.
Might wanna try a mighty vac. Ive had stubborn hydraulics not respond until I used a vacuum bleeder. Then it worked in 2 seconds smh.

I do have pressure on the pedal and I can shift through the gears while the engine is off. I'm going to upload some videos so you can take a look. In one of the vidoes you can see the gap between the tranny and the engine. In the other video you can see me pumping the clutch and see the slave move back and foward. I am going to post the videos to YouTube and then post the link

 

[American_Carr]

I do have pressure on the pedal and I can shift through the gears while the engine is off. I'm going to upload some videos so you can take a look. In one of the vidoes you can see the gap between the tranny and the engine. In the other video you can see me pumping the clutch and see the slave move back and foward. I am going to post the videos to YouTube and then post the link

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Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[American_Carr]

Usually stabbing a manual back in, is finding the "sweet spot" where everything is aligned properly. This can be hard to do when just muscling the transmission in. Support for the mission, such as a floor jack; ratchet straps to the frame, or temporary long bolts at 3:00 and 9:00 positions, takes a lot of the dead weight load and let's you have the finesse to "get the wiggle" right.

But I have run into the transmission input shaft splines being dead on the clutch disc splines; in other words, the input shaft not "meshing" into the clutch disc. Try this: with the transmission almost there, put it 5th gear and turn the output shaft; once the splines align properly the mission will seat.

I am going to try this as well, I will be sure to report back weather it works out or not.

 

[SenorNoob]

I can't see a reason why that shouldn't be working... Looks like plenty of travel in your videos.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Just throwing this out there when possible I use an input shaft to align the clutch. It worked when I was stuck. The plastic alignment tools w the kits can be way too loose.

 

[American_Carr]

I can't see a reason why that shouldn't be working... Looks like plenty of travel in your videos.

So i got the truck to work today. I took EVERYTHING clutch related out and inspected it. Put everything back together and it works great now. When installing the tranny, I opened the bleeder on the slave cylinder so I was able to seat the tranny to the engine without using the tranny bolts. I then bled the system and it just works. So I am now happy.

 

[American_Carr]

Thank you everyone for yall's help!!!

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Yay! I love it when a plan comes together, or sheer stubborness prevails!

Seriously thanks for posting a conclusion.

PS nobody mentioned crack the bleeder!