Regearing from 3.73s on a '93 3.0 for 31s

[Ruby4x4]

Well I've spent quite a bit of time searching for this and it seems like everyone's situation is different when it comes to regearing/what ratio to go to/etc. I'm mostly interested in how much this is going to cost. I'd like to go with 4.56s, but I'm also not looking to spend 800+ on this.

I'm planning on buying a new set of 31s soon (most likely won't ever go bigger than 32s, maybe 33's if I ever do an engine swap), and within a couple months I should have the funds to pay for a regear. I haven't really had any issues in Illinois with my current gearing and 31s, but I'm planning on moving back to Colorado soon and getting up hills was quite the task the last time I was there.

Is it worth it to try to find an 8.8 4.10 rear and have a shop put 4.10s in the front, or should I just go with the 4.56s?

 

[locked ranger]

4.10s would be good for a daily driver and 31s. i run 4.10s with 33s and have a 4.0 and it does ok, id been alot happier with 4.56 gears tho, if you plan to go to 33s, then get the 4.56.

 

[veefer800canuck]

31s are 7.3% taller than 235/75-15's, assuming that's what your truck came with.

3:73 x 1.073 = 4:00-1 (imaginary matching axle ratio to suit 31" tires)

so 4:10s would easily compensate for the larger tires in that case. your gearing would be 9.91% lower than stock with the 4:10s, and to get exactly back to stock gearing would require tires 31.74" tall, so 32's would not be a problem either

to put it another way, with 31's, your gearing with the 4:10s would be 2.6% lower than stock
with 32's, it would be 0.9% taller.

again, ASS-uming that your factory size is the 235/75-15. if not, all those calculations are meaningless.

if you post up your stock tire size from the label inside the doorframe, I could zero right in on it, if your truck had the smaller tire option, for example.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Going from 3.73 to 4.10 would be a waste of money as far as I'm concerned.

I have a 97 3.0L 5spd and I run 33's on it with 4.56's, its perfect. In the winter I run 31" winters it works fine with those as well.

If you are buying the gears, intsall kits and paying labour you are going to be well over $800.00.....

 

[4.0B2]

good luck.

if you regear to 4.10s I don't think you'd be happy... but you won't find 4.56's any cheaper since they are not factory. Even if you did 4.10's you probably would never find a set of ttb 4.10 gears.

I debated just like you are once about 4.56 or 4.10's after a lot of thought I just jumped on New 4.56's with master install kits. spent dang near 800 on just parts, I regeared my axles myself tho. If you don't know how... you're looking at probably 600 on labor. Gear setting is not something you wanna teach yourself how to do either.

long story short: I'd go 4.56's for when you decide on a 32 or 33 inch tire. If you're certain on 31's max, you could live with 4.10's but I don't see it as that much of a change from 3.73's

 

[veefer800canuck]

It depends on what his goals are.

If it's just to get back to near stock gearing so his speedo still reads reasonably close, and it's not revving like mad on the highway, then 4:10s will do nicel for mostly street use and mild wheeling, keeping the overall gearing near stock.

BUT, if he's putting mud tires on it and going through serious off road stuff with lots of low range work, then yeah, 4:56 is the way to go.

But he hasn't stated his intended usage for the truck, so......

 

[Ruby4x4]

This is exactly why I found it hard to get an answer with searching.. so many different opinions that all sound valid! I plan on using this truck as a daily driver around town, and for driving around on forest service dirt roads in the mountains. This truck won't see any deep mud holes or be rock crawling.

Veefer, you're right on with my stock tire size. Based on what you say I'm tempted to go with 4.10s ass-uming I can find an 8.8 with 4.10s.

If I went with 4.56s and had a shop do it (my understanding is all I need are the R&P if I have a shop do it) I'd pay about $450 for parts and whatever labor is. I know going to 4.56s will be expensive. I'm really just trying to figure out if the extra cost of 4.56s is worth it considering my usage (it will eventually be retired as a hunting rig).

What benefits are there for spending more money and getting 4.56s vs. going with 4.10s? How much of a difference between the two will I see in terms of power/gas mileage? My biggest problem with my setup now is the lack of power/acceleration on hills. I'd like to fix this without swapping engines and was hoping a regear might help lol

 

[4.0B2]

This is exactly why I found it hard to get an answer with searching.. so many different opinions that all sound valid! I plan on using this truck as a daily driver around town, and for driving around on forest service dirt roads in the mountains. This truck won't see any deep mud holes or be rock crawling.

If I went with 4.56s and had a shop do it (my understanding is all I need are the R&P if I have a shop do it) I'd pay about $450 for parts and whatever labor is. I know going to 4.56s will be expensive. I'm really just trying to figure out if the extra cost of 4.56s is worth it considering my usage (it will eventually be retired as a hunting rig).

What benefits are there for spending more money and getting 4.56s vs. going with 4.10s? How much of a difference will I see in terms of power/gas mileage? My biggest problem with my setup now is the lack of power/acceleration on hills. I'd like to fix this without swapping engines and was hoping a regear might help lol

remember, 31's and 4.10's are "stock" feeling. If you want a little more low end feel, go 4.56... if you wanna later use it for a hunting rig, go 4.56.

I daily drive on 4.56's and a 4.0 with 32.5" tires. I love the way it feels. Slightly lower than stock. I LOVE IT.

I also recommend a master install kit when doing gears... even if a shop does it.

 

[locked ranger]

Go with 4.56, with your intended use, you and the truck will be happier with the 4.56 gears with hills involved/hunting truck

 

[4x4junkie]

Do remember that the 3.0L has a radically different power curve than a 4.0L (likes much higher RPM).

My recommendation would be nothing less than 4.56:1 gears for 31" tires and a 3.0L. If you're planning on 33s, then 4.88 gears. Your gas mileage will be no different with these gears vs. a step taller, however your low-end power certainly will be much less w/taller gears (certainly won't make for much fun driving in a very hilly neighborhood).

I have the 2.9L in my BII (which it's power curve resembles a 3.0L's more than the 4.0L, and I find even 5.13 gears w/my 35s (equates very close to the same as what I suggested above) isn't quite enough in certain instances on the road. Definitely don't fear the gear. Any of the smaller engines won't mind it at all.

 

[4.0B2]

Definitely don't fear the gear.

 

[veefer800canuck]

4:10s are 9.91% lower than 3:73s
4:56s are 22.3% lower than 3:73s

235/75-15s are 28.9" tall.

31" tires are 7.3% taller
32" tires are 10.7% taller
33" tires are 14.2% taller

I'll let the OP figure out which way he's going with it.

If it were MY truck, and I was doing mostly STREET driving, with very little mild off-roading, and NEVER putting on tires larger than 31", I would do the 4:10s, since the price of fuel is so dear. That's still 2.5% lower than stock.

There are certainly other considerations and usages for the truck, that only the OP can really weigh out for himself, serious off-roading, towing, mudding, rock-crawling, or larger tires later on, all that asks for a lower gear ratio.

 

[4x4junkie]

That truck really should've come with 4.10s from the factory, not 3.73s.

Figure from there and the figures will be much closer.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I did not loose any economy going from 3.73's and 31's to 4.56's and 31's.

The 3.0L is much happier at higher revs for sure.

 

[Ruby4x4]

Do remember that the 3.0L has a radically different power curve than a 4.0L (likes much higher RPM).

My recommendation would be nothing less than 4.56:1 gears for 31" tires and a 3.0L. If you're planning on 33s, then 4.88 gears. Your gas mileage will be no different with these gears vs. a step taller, however your low-end power certainly will be much less w/taller gears (certainly won't make for much fun driving in a very hilly neighborhood).

I have the 2.9L in my BII (which it's power curve resembles a 3.0L's more than the 4.0L, and I find even 5.13 gears w/my 35s (equates very close to the same as what I suggested above) isn't quite enough in certain instances on the road. Definitely don't fear the gear. Any of the smaller engines won't mind it at all.

Sounds like it's a resounding "Yes" for the 4.56s.. Looks like I'll have to save up for a little longer and take the plunge.

Ideally I'd like to learn how to do these myself, anyone have suggestions on how to learn? If I have to I'll pay to have it done, but I'm a cheap ass if there's any kind of chance I can do something myself.. If anyone is in the Denver, CO/Laramie, WY area this summer and likes to teach young bucks new tricks, I'd be grateful and willing to pay with beer and some cash

Thanks for all the help guys, ya'll are great!