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Really loud whining noise from steering


bilzy7

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
2,180
City
Lynn, MA
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Automatic
I replaced my upper control arm and my ride is sooo much softer. But now it pulls to the left pretty hard if I let go of steering wheel. I'm wondering if by me tightening the balljoints in with wheel turned could of caused this? I of course had to turn steering wheel to take some bolts off. Or maybe knuckle wasn't in "perfect" alignment. I tried to get ball joint on upper; as close as I could to how it was sitting before.
I just checked real quick, it's dark out. It looks fine, the knuckle looks like it's at same angle that it was before.... I was thinking things could be at different turn angles but ride is smooth, It just wants to pull left.
I'm gonna check more in morning.
 
Different upper ball joints will produce different alignments. Get an alignment (at least get it checked).
 
Messing with anything in the suspension or steering it's general procedure to get an alignment afterwards.

My bet is that it will go away.
 
Sounds like you may have pinched the brake hose and in doing so it collapsed, making it pull. Also do a redneck toe in/out check by marking both tires all the way around and measuring front/back.
 
I went for alignment and I need a camber bolt kit... Great... $281.xx.
I just put 600 into my truck in the last 2 days. I'm so screwed when I go to training for a week. That was my survival money lol. Now I'll have to squeeze by with about 300 bucks...
 
200+ for a camber kit? Such bull...
Everywhere I look they are 10-40 bucks... I knew I should have gone to town fair tire for my alignment... Ugh... I'm not missing the alignment plates or bolts so wtf...
 
Dude yea, you got screwed. Or was that the price of the bolts, alignment, and labor? Because that's not too bad then. Say $50 for the bolts, $100 for the alignment...that leaves $131.00 for labor which is about right if they charge $80/hr which is normal
 
Ya 281.00 for labor and parts. I'm just like, ****. Lol. One bill after another. If it's needed gotta do it. I should have been more prepared for this though...
 
85.99 for alignment, the rest is labor and parts. Which ya, 50 per side, 100, then 100 for labor or so. Ya not bad. I was just hoping for just an alignment. Well, it's better then destroying my steering, tires and whatever else would get damaged when they fail should I not do it. I'm just screwed for training I have coming up. 200+ for rental car, 6 days at a hotel, then food daily. I will have about 300 to do all that with now. Like they say, gotta spend money to make money...
 
Ok, 281.xx later, my steering, it now takes longer for the whine to happen now. It's like as if the steering is being over worked. It use to be all the time now it's only after driving till it apparently get noisy and doesn't like me very much. The whole feel of my truck has changed since I out new upper control arms with balljoints bushings. Smoother, only now my steering is still making noise after alignment and new camber bolt kit.
Now, my upper control arms were not 2 piece for passenger side as stock was. They were both 1 piece. It seemed to get knuckle to same place as 2 piece one did as far as angle but, could that be killing my steering?
 
They told me at Goodyear, it was fixed, but wtf...
They sell the one piece as a replacement for the 2 piece on Napa and I believe Moog also makes a 1 piece design to replace it. Why would they if it didn't work. Maybe I should start a new thread called, "awwwwwww shit!"
 
Is it coming from the wheels or somewhere else? Fluid level? (might as well ask). turning, straight line, or other directions?

Did you twist the rack and pinion arm? I have to admit I don't know what happens but everyone has told me "DO NOT TWIST THE ARM!". I never have twisted it more than a few degrees and I've never had a problem.
 
It has no pull to either side anymore, drives true and straight. Fluid is good, and I did not bend arm of rack. I don't have anyone else so I couldn't tell where exactly but with windows open it's the same noise level from both windows which yells me it's from the rack itself. It smells burning when I stop after a good 20 mile drive on highway. Wheels are perfectly aligned as far as no pull to either side and by chart they gave me telling degrees it should be at it's within specs on almost all.
 

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