Re-tap vs. clean threads

[Li'l Work Truck]

My MINI required that I retap the threads when installing motor mounts. I thought it was a bit nuts, until I saw what came out of it (hardened loctite). That got me thinking about the Ranger and possibe rust issues/buildup on threads. So, if there's an option, what do you prefer? To be specific, this is for  any bolt hole, not just the motor mounts.

 

[Jazzer]

Retap, especially if it’s a bolt that has a torque value.

 

[djfllmn]

depends on the situation, if its a normal bolt hole that all it does is hold the fender on, thread chaser all the way but like the above, if it holds an important part on the car then re tap

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Tap holes and wire wheel bolts unless it is a rescue mission or something weird, then they get a die.

 

[Rick W]

My MINI required that I retap the threads when installing motor mounts. I thought it was a bit nuts, until I saw what came out of it (hardened loctite). That got me thinking about the Ranger and possibe rust issues/buildup on threads. So, if there's an option, what do you prefer? To be specific, this is for  any bolt hole, not just the motor mounts.

Re-tap, BUT….

Obviously, you’ve got to be extremely careful not to cross thread the hole. A lot of internal threads that are messed up, that’s easy to do.

And whenever I do that, if it’s a critical thing, I put in blue or red Loctite. I only use red Loctite if it’s a spot where I can get heat on it if I have to pull it down the road.

If it’s not that critical, I usually put E 6000/GOOP on the bolt before I screw it in. It stops the bolt from vibrating loose or out, but it breaks free very easily if you have to unscrew the bolt.

My two cents

 

[Rick W]

Tap holes and wire wheel bolts unless it is a rescue mission or something weird, then they get a die.

Ditto, I agree, and I do the same thing, but one little thought for the less experienced.

Obviously, if you have to run a tap down the hole because the threads are damaged, you are going to be removing some of the metal, you’re just straightening up the channels.

Same thing on the bolt, if it’s really bad, you’re going to be taking away the high part of the threads. That can leave you with a gap when it’s all put together, a weaker situation.

Hence, if I re-tap the hole, I’m more likely to put in a bolt with rounded threads than taking them clean with a die, to preserve the metal, and that assumes it will screw in with minimal force. Depending on how bad it is, I just use new bolts.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

There are rethreading die and taps. They have a different profile that reshapes the metal rather than cut it. That said I don't have any and use my regular old taps and die. IMO all they're going to do is remove dirt and rust, not new metal because it's the same as was used when new. Thread locker is good. There is a fairly new type that is orange and marketed as strong as red but doesn't need heat to remove.

 

[Shran]

You can use a threading tap to chase threads but just be aware it may remove metal and make the fastener fit looser than it did.

Thread chaser tool may be best if you have damaged threads...tap may be best if you are simply cleaning junk out of them. Just back off if it doesn't go in fairly easily or you're getting metal chips.

 

[superj]

i only mess with the threads if there was something wrong removing the bolts, like galling or some type of metal transfer happened. i also only clean the threads and hole if there was some type of locker used on it already, i am going to use a locker, or the threads intercept a water or oil jacket and there is going to be fluid leak issue.