Ranger Tires and Lifting

[Svadilfari]

Good Evening everyone,

After many days of over thinking my budget and the time I have, I decided that I would buy myself a Ford Ranger. As for the exact sub-model, I do not know yet but I am looking for a 4.0L or even a 4.10L.

Now that my car make and model has and will be chosen, the decisions of which tires and how much lifting I want comes into play. Keep in mind that this Ford Ranger will be used for work, such as transporting doors, windows and other materials such as wood and metal, without going overboard, it will also be used as a leisure truck and I will be using it to go in trails and might also go mudding from time to time. I do understand that it will put a heavy load on the truck, frame and other parts of it as well.

The first question is: taking in mind the activities that I will be perfoming with this truck, how big should the tires be? I know this seems more of a personal question, but the bigger the tires, the more gas and mileage it consumes, the pricier it gets especially if you need to change the differencial. I was looking at a good 33'' tires give a nice look to the Ranger.

My second question is directly related to the differencial change: How big can the tires be without having to change those parts of the truck? Honestly, if it would make sense, I would buy the 37x13.50R-15LT, M16 Tire Super Swampers but I know that it will inquire me to not only put a lot of lifting and change the differencials on the trucks axels.

My last question involves lifting: How and where should I lift? I understand this is once again a more personal question to be answered, but is there any negative effects or positive effects of only lifting the frame of the truck or the cab of both? Should I lift both or only one? Should the rear axel be lifted higher then the front or vice-versa?

Thank you for your kind help and generosity. I will be posting pictures once this beauty is finished and tamed and ready to ride!

Goodnight!

 

[CHKNFKR]

you know that the ranger is not a fullsize and that you posted this in the fullsize subforum right?

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Fullsize forum?

It all has to do with budget. Since you are considering an FX4 model, I assume you are looking at the newest generation of ranger. You can crank the torsion bars for free and run 265s easy. You can body lift and run larger. You can drop coin on a lift kit, but then your front end will be the weak point. You can swap out the front suspension in favor of a solid axle. As for gearing, if you plan on using it as a truck (such as towing and hauling) find a truck with the 4.0L and 4.10 gears. Even with this combo, I would only tow light stuff if you plan on 33" tires. If you have anything less than 4.10 gears, I wouldn't even bolt 33" tires on.

I run a rear powertrax locker on my truck with 265/75/16 general grabber AT2s (torsion bars tightened to level truck) and its gotten me out of some hairy situations while hunting and such where my buddy with a full size blazer on 35" mudders (open diffs haha) needed a winch. My point isn't that my truck is more beasty, but that performance is only as good as the weakest link. My truck will still tow effortlessly and I manage 20mpg driving normal.

Throw up a budget and mechanical ability. Then we can help you achieve your goals. Who knows, a supercharged 347 atop 1 ton axles and 38s might be up your alley!

 

[Svadilfari]

Throw up a budget and mechanical ability. Then we can help you achieve your goals.

I'm looking around 11-12k for now. Obviously means that the truck is going to be bought used but fairly new and well taken care of. For the rest, I'll buy gradually. As for the model being an FX4, is there any possibilities to have a 4.0 without it being an FX4 model or am I stuck with this only option for the model. I do admit the extra space on the cabin is a lovely fitting space for two huskies....

As for the Ranger, I've learnt for it's size, it's packs a heavy punch and boosts! But yes, a truck is as strong as its weakest link, hence why I want the most information possible before making any decisions. I'm looking to buy this truck in a couple of weeks, trying to not let me excitement get the better of me, ha!

As for my mechanical genius, I am not and I don't have much experience either for any indepth mechanics, but there's always these kind of forums for questions. One of my best buddy will be helping me out as well who's being working in a car shop for most of his life, so it helps.

After doing some research yesterday, I found and came to the conclusion that on stock, a Ranger could possibly fit 33" tires without having to change the differentials on both axels and with a minimum of lifting. I would love to get those 37" M16 tires in on that truck, but I'm slowly seeing that as a far away dream if I have to change my differentials, even for 35" tires. I was also looking to put on an 8" for the lifting. As for how I want it distributed between the front and rear, frame or cabin, im all ears to suggestions.

Thank you.


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=45.477062,-73.391201

 

[RavoHimself]

there is no 4.10 motor. i think he assumed you wanted an fx4 (it is a great truck) because they all came with a 4.10 gear ratio. if you are looking at a newer truck a a 4.0L with 4x4 and a stick if you can find it. i know some people have been able to clear 33's with just a torsion bar crank

 

[Svadilfari]

Ah, yes. Rereading his post, he does insinuate that, but by the looks of it he seems to own one, so its a valuable input considering hes had the time and experience to tweek and ride one.

I wouldn't really want it manual. I heard its awful mudding and trailing with a stick. Then again, I've only heard and never tried the experience.

Most models I've been looking at and tracking are around the 00-05 range. Do I assume correct when I say FX4 are the sturdiest and most powerful ranger model when looking at stock pieces..?

 

[06RangerXLT]

get a 2003 fx4 auto. buy a superlift for it, and bolt on some 33x10.50 BFG all terrains.

that will give you the strongest new body ranger ford has produced.

 

[Svadilfari]

that will give you the strongest new body ranger ford has produced.

Will the super lift give me enough clearance for a bigger tire size if I want to upgrade some day?

And why 03? The same thing as grape picking for wine, ford made the best Ranger that year? What facts do you have to back up such statement?

And there is still the differential on each axels to be answered. When are tires to big for stock differentials..?

Thank you.


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=45.494833,-73.408179

 

[RavoHimself]

All fx4s came with 4.10s. With the 4.0 motor you can easilly turn a 33. As for the manual/automatic thing. You actually get better mpg with a stick and its easier to work on. But on the trails its not a big deal. I've been driving a stick off road since I was 8. Once you are comfortable using the clutch its nothing. It actually transfers more power to the wheels too so its better for rock crawling

 

[Svadilfari]

Alright. I think what I'll do is go to a dealer and ask him to try both to get a feel of it. I can't imagine stick saving gas a lot to make a huge difference in the end. It'll be one of the last thing I'll see seeing as I won't do a lot of rock climbing but more getting into mud holes.

So it seems the model of the ranger is heading towards an FX4. Is there a unique year I should be looking and tracking? Earlier a user said an 03 was their best frame yet built for the Ranger. Do you agree..?

As for the lifting, I was looking for something around 8". Where does that tie in for wheel and tire size..? I'm going on a wild limb and guessing that "differential" is a french-only word and it's equivalent in english is the ratio were are taking about: the 4.10. What limit can 4.10. Many say that for running 37", I need a minimum of 4.88 or even 5.10 if I remember correctly?


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=45.476988,-73.391356

 

[Gotta_gofast]

I would look for something mid 2004 or newer (if you want the 4.0L SOHC). The 4.0L SOHC engines earlier than that were prone to timing chain rattle (an expensive fix). Prior to 2002, some 5R55E autos experienced separator plate gasket blow outs causing issues. There is a TSB for it, and ou can fix it simply if you need to (bonded gasket to separator plate). You don't need an FX4 model to get the 4.0L and/or 4.10:1 gears. I would also stay away from the level 2s with the torsen rear differential. Bigger tires and enough off roading can be too much for them.

8" lift won't happen with a "bolt on" kit. You will need to source out a solid front axle, coil springs, buckets, shocks, fit the front driveshaft, modify the steering to work, ect....

"Differential" is the assembly that allows one wheel to turn at a different rate than the other. Check out the library here on TRS to learn more about how a differential functions. Since you are considering off road use, learn the difference between an open differential, a limited slip differential (both clutch/friction type and gear type) and locker. The numbers we are referring to is the gear ratio of the ring and pinion gear set. 4.10:1 gear ratio simply means the pinion gear must rotate 4.1 times for the ring gear to rotate once. This is accomplished by using a pinion gear with 10 teeth and a ring gear with 41 teeth.


It might be better for you (for your goals) to consider an older truck with TTB front suspension. The trucks are cheaper to purchase leaving more money for upgrades.

 

[Svadilfari]

It might be better for you (for your goals) to consider an older truck with TTB front suspension. The trucks are cheaper to purchase leaving more money for upgrades.

Beat you to the differentials definition in the Library.
As for the 8'' lift. It was merely a thought that crossed my mind since a friend of mine uses that for his F-350 Lariat. It gave it a high and, personally, awesome look. For starters, I don't believe its a must and I'm sure I'll eventually upgrade after some time.

But it seems like my future Ranger is taking a nice shape in the process of two days.

If I do a small recap of everything we've talked 'bout this is what I get:

Make: Ford
Model: Ranger FX4 Offroad 4x4 (Do every Level II come with the torsen rear differential issue or is it a ''I've to check every situation for this problem?)
Year: 03 or 04 and newer if I'm looking for the 4.0L SOHC.
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: Most likely automatic
Tires: Something along the lines of 33'' BFG All Terrains, although I was looking at those M16 Super-Swampers in both 33'' and 35'' and I also found some nice 33'' Mickey Thompson. Didn't check if they fit the bolts though. A lot of GM and Chevy stuff out there with 6 bolts.
Lift: You mentioned this in your first post that if I decided to buy myself a lift kit, the front suspension would be lacking in strength and that I would need to replace it with a solid axle considering it'll become the weakest point of the truck. This is where I'm at right now. Could you detail this process to me?

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Hmmm....

If you look into an FX4 level II they all come with the torsen differential. This is a gear type differential that houses central gears connected to each axle shaft. There are helical gears that revolve around both central gears, and depending on the design can have a bias ratio ranging from 2:1 to over 6:1. Here's a real world example...

You're stopped on the side of the road. One tire is firmly on pavement (tire with most traction) while the other is on gravel (tire with poor traction). You get up in a hurry and floor it. An open differential is going to split the torque evenly. Say it takes 100ft-lbs (just a guess for exampler purposes) of torque on the axle when the tire on gravel spins. This means that the tire on the road only applies 100lbs.

Now you have a trac-lok differential. This is essentially an open differential with friction disks. The amount of torque it takes to slip the clutches in this differential is fixed. Lets say it takes 50ft-lbs to overcome the clutches. Since 100lbs of force is applied to the gravel tire before it slips, the same happens with the road tire, plus you need to overcome the frictions. Now you have 150ft-lbs of force driving the road tire.

Unhappy, you upgrade to a torsen limited slip. Say it has a 3:1 bias ratio. This applies 3 times the torque to the "slow" wheel than it does the "fast" wheel. Since it takes 100ft-lbs to spin the gravel tire (fast wheel) the torsen's helical gears drive the road tire (slow tire) at 3 times the torque, so 300lbs. Now you have 300ft-lbs applied to the tire with traction.

Last, you try a powertrax no-slip. (this is what I have). It mechanically locks the axles together. So when one tire is in the gravel and the other is on the road and I floor it... I can leave a black mark on the pavement and spin in the gravel. How much torque am I applying to the road tire? Well, as much as my truck can push out (170ft-lbs@2500rpm X 2.2 (average torque converter multiplier) X 2.47 (1st gear ratio) X 4.10 (axle ratio) = 3787 ft-lbs. Divide that by drivetrain loss (we'll say 25% for 4wd application) and I have 2841 ft-lbs available to drive the tires!

What happens when one tire is on ice or in the air instead of gravel? (where it takes almost no torque to spin one tire). The open diff will apply no torque to the wheel on pavement. The trac-lok will provide 50lbs to the wheel on pavement. The torsen will apply no torque to the wheel on pavement (0x3=0). The locker will provide any and all available torque to both wheels, meaning 100% power to the wheel on the pavement despite one wheel is in the air or on ice.

Whew, if you followed that, good for you. If you think a powertrax no-slip (the smoothest of the auto-lockers) is something for you, look for a truck with an open differential. Why? Well there's no sense on spending extra for a truck with a limited slip if you are going to remove it and install a locker. If your truck has a torsen lsd then you need to replace the carrier with an open differential and then install the powertrax.

Now, some advice on the 5R55E autos. They are a good transmission, but have their quirks (what current auto doesn't anymore!?!?). A superior shift kit, and sonnax boost valve along with a larger tranny cooler and amsoil ATF (meaning all 10.4 quarts, not 3-4 to top off what came out of the pan) will help it out a LOT. Especially with the extra load presented by 33" or 35" tires.

Lastly, to answer your tire question. The ranger uses a 5X4.5 bolt pattern. While some guys do run 33" tires on 4.10 gears, I personally wouldn't. I like lots of gear, I would end up running 4.56 minimum, 4.88 or even 5.13 for 35" tires. If you have any head wind on the interstate (head wind affects lifted trucks way more) your trans might struggle to stay in overdrive. It might constantly unlock the torque converter or downshift. But, this is just personal opinion. There are guys who will bolt up 35" tires to the stock lifted IFS front suspension, but most of them do it for "show". The IFS just can't handle the stress and abuse of real off-roading over time and you'll find yourself fixing your truck more than enjoying it (its not fun). I think if you properly maintained your IFS you could turn 33s on the road and still venture off road. Just don't floor it through stuff or get into rock climbing and you'll be fine.

I'm just curious, what are your goals with the truck? Is it just for looks or are you going to be running it hard off road?

 

[Svadilfari]

Managed to follow the differential part seeing as I've went on a reading frenzy this morning about everything on Axles, to differencials and gear ratios. Even read a couple of stories of people buying and installing them and all the problems they encountered.

You lost me at the 5R55E autos part though. Unfortunately.
I'll basically make a nutshell of what I was able to clear out today and the rough draft of what I thought would of been the ideal truck with all the reading I did this morning.

The truck, I won't hide it and shame on anyone who does, will look absolutely amazing. The lifted looks just give it that ''Damn, I love this truck.'' feeling and I do want to get hard every time I drive it, but nonetheless, I will go offroading and trailing. Maybe not rock climbing, but definitely mudding. To my eyes, trucks aren't made to be clean but instead dirt and mud filled and covered. Seeing as this will be my every day truck and I will also use it to travel, I don't want to overdo it with the offroading either. Lastly, I'm only 19. I'm going back to school for my carpenter diploma, so money is going to be a little tight. Hence, why I said the initial budget for this truck is going to be around 10-11k. Not a penny more.

What I was able to make out this morning plus everything we've talked 'bout:

The Ranger model is definitely going to be an Fx4 somewhere along the 04-05-06 years to have that SOHL 4L Engine automatic. The great part of starting of with the Fx4 is that I already get a 4.10 ratio which is the minimum that can turn my 33'' BFG's.

As for the torsen differential issue with the Fx4 Level II, I can always decide to change the differential. This morning the Limited Slip seemed more appropriate for the environment where I'm living, (Canada, Quebec) where theres 8 months of snow and feets of it. But after reading your reply, I'm doubting this. Is the torsen limited slip which is stock on the Level II like any other Limited Slip or do both vary.

Example: After buying the Fx4 Level II Ranger, I would change the axle to a 8.8'' with 31 Spline axles. Change the stock torsen differential with a Detroit truetrac Limited Slip differential with a new set of gears, possibly something along 4.88 or even 5.12. I would need to change the u-bolts to 9/16 and the spring clamping plates (F-series truck plates) because the ones coming with the axle might end up being to small. Thats what I roughly drafted this morning for the rear Axle.

As for the front axle, seeing as I'm going to eventually lift the truck a couple of inches, the front axle is going to be terribly undermined and the weakness of the truck. After some researching this morning on front axles I've fell with two options for the front axle. Either a Dana 44 TTB from the F-150's through 1980 to 1996 or the new 8.8 IFS from the more recent 1997s 150's.

OR

Normal Dana 44's from any earlier Bronco's between 1971 to 1977. Seeing as the bolt pattern will become 5x5.5, I'll need to buy myself some adapters to make them into 5x4.5. The shaft will need to be replaced because Bronco's u-joints are 260x and much more weaker then the rangers 297x u-joints. I found that a good replacement would be a Dodge W100 from 1972 to 1974 with B.O.M. 603413 since it has the same shaft length with 297x u-joints. An F-150 shaft or a Chevy Dana 44 shaft might also work albeit their not quite exactly the same length. Brakes might be drum brakes and would need to be changed to disk brakes afterwards.

This is basically the rough build I had drawn this morning. What do you think? Where did I make mistakes and is there anything I could swap or exchange for better sturdiness or/and power and endurance.

Quite honestly, this is all hypothetical. Theres only the question of the Torsen Limited Slip differential to be answered to see if I'm buying an Fx4 or a Level II. Thats my main focus right now. Getting a model for my ranger clear in view. I know I want the SOHL 4.0L engine. After that, I want to lift it with a couple of inches and most likely some 33's or maybe 35's tires and I'm heading down with it to Florida. Do I want it ready and primed for offroading down there? Not so much extreme offroading, but some fun would be appreciated. I'm thinking my build that I just explained would help me with that.

If my budget is to small, would it just be easier and more affordable of finding an already lifted Ranger and just change the entire engine to not have so much mileage since I'm using it as an every day truck and tweak anything that needs to be tweaked afterwards?

 

[Gotta_gofast]

The 5R55E transmission (the auto) commonly experiences soft sliding shifts from 1-2 or 2-3, a delay when selecting reverse-to-drive or vice versa, weak line pressure and/or pressure drop, internal 150 degree thermostat (stupid because when it is closed there is no flow of fluid through the filter) and blown gasket on the separator plate. The Superior shift kit gives you an assortment parts fix the soft shifts and thermostat bypass. The Sonnax boost valve increases line pressure a tad to firm up shifts and hold the bands harder. A larger transmission cooler helps keep the fluid cool (these transmissions do NOT like heat). And AMSOIL atf does a great job at keeping the trans healthy.

The standard FX4 model comes with a trac-lok differential. The FX4 level II comes with the torsen lsd. Swapping to a detroit truetrac wouldn't be much of an improvement because they are both gear type limited slips. Also, the FX4 level II rear axles are 31 spline 8.8s.

In your budget, a 3 inch body lift and some 33s (may have to trim a bit to keep from rubbing) would do you good. Anything serious is going to blow that out. And being a daily driver, I'd hate to have you stress your drivetrain out too much off roading and then not be able to get to work on Monday.

May I ask why you are dead set on a new gen ranger? This will blow most (or all) of your budget. Why not look for a 3rd gen ranger with a 4.0L OHV and 5 speed with Dana 35 TTB. A truck like this will cost less leaving more room for tires and suspension/gears.

At the risk of sounding like your parents lol, you should make sure that some of that money is placed in the savings, too. I am also a tradesman (electrician) and my first two years of school I took in one. I spent $2000 that year in books, PRI tuition, URI class fees, and membership costs (LU890). Plus, in construction you are not guarenteed 40 hour work weeks, so having some in the bank will help you out more in rough times than fancy vehicles.

PS: I keep my truck clean. lol, if I thrash it in the mud my next stop is the car wash. Mud does nasty things to the underside of your truck.