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Ranger Tires and Lifting


I would like to add, these are only the opinions of one pee-on in the world. You should do as you please, i'm only offering a second "perspective". With anything, patience is key. Don't make any impulse purchases.
 
NO. NO! On the contrary mate, I love what you're doing. I was a complete noob to all of this, probably still am but I know already a lot more then I did before. You know, after a while, knowing how to change your bumpers, tires and what not kinda does make you feel really good past the age of 12-14.. I've never went so indepth in a cars mechanics and I'm loving it. I've honestly always thought of taking this up in the future as a hobby.

Like I've mentioned, I'm not gonna go intensively offroad either, because its going to be used for work and travelling. I don't want to ride down to Florida and something blows half way there. Would suck..

As for why a new generation Ranger, I'm not looking to buy the truck over 8k if it doesn't have aftermarket tires, lifting, shafts and axles. I'm buying it from a used dealer as well. My uncles owns a shop and he can work out 1 to 2.5k off of the original dealer price and I just end up giving my uncle a merely 500$. So while having a not expensive new-gen Ranger used, I can get it for even cheaper which leaves a lot of money for tweaking it and adding addons to it. But I've been shopping Rangers for nearly two months and I've come dead set with a three-four interesting ones. Some that I would need to add tires and a lift and modify things on, and two others are FX4 Level II with all the tires and the lifts already in place. There would only be the differential issue to look at. But I am looking for just whatever is the cheapest and offers the best price/mileage offer.

I know how construction is, I've been working two years now and yes, thats exactly how it is. You almost never do 40 hours a week and its even worse because I don't have my cards yet. As for sounding like my 'rents, haha. I'm actually glad theres still people out there telling you to be careful. I do live alone after they both passed away so its welcomed. And when people give you advise, the most respectful thing to do is to listen and then decide for yourself. You sound genuine, honest and you're only looking to help a fellow enthusiast. I'd be darn well stupid to ignore that help!

We started, well I started with nothing and in a week, I've went further into knowing parts, quirks and other things that I would have never been able to understand or comprehend in such a short time span. But the automatic transmission does sound sketch. Something to definitely look in. I read that most can torsion the bars plus add something of a 5-6 inch suspension plus a 2-3 inch body lift without even having to change the drivetrain or change the front axles and all the buckets, all the coils and springs..? Would it still be to much for the front of truck and be riding on the limit of what the parts can take?

If I do take a Level II, I guess any Limited Slip differential will not do and will be to much or are there any LSD that could prove worthwhile to buy. The way I'm seeing with the snow and ice and the extreme conditions we have in our 8 months in winter, I should just go with a Powertrax-no slip front and rear?

The way I see it, if I can get a Fx4 Level II and still have 5k or so left, if I shop well enough and find good prices, I could at least change the front axle and add new differentials while buying 33's. Even better if the lift kit and wheels are already installed. I'm trying to find rangers that are already mounted with lift kits and tires, worst happens, I'd just need to change the axles and differentials if they are not, which god I hope isn't the case.
 
Will the super lift give me enough clearance for a bigger tire size if I want to upgrade some day?

And why 03? The same thing as grape picking for wine, ford made the best Ranger that year? What facts do you have to back up such statement?

And there is still the differential on each axels to be answered. When are tires to big for stock differentials..?

Thank you.


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=45.494833,-73.408179

2003 was the strongest axle ford produced stock in the fx4's. only that year also. i wouldnt go higher then a 33" with 4.10's though i have 4.56's.

yes a superlift will give you plenty of room. lifting isnt hard at all. its a very simple process.


btw, if you can find a FX4 level II for less then 8K, ill be surprised.
 
Btw, if you can find a FX4 level II for less then 8K, ill be surprised.

Well, like I said I'm shopping. Been shopping these last two bloody months. But I've found my eyes on two nifty rides.

One is a Fx4 with under 100k Mileage for 7.500$ but I would have everything to do on it. I have found yesterday, one beautiful chrome Fx4 Level II lifted and running 33's. So I'm hoping the guy had the axles and differentials swapped and dear god hope, if I decide to choose that one that it won't be the original front axle with 4.10's front and rear or else I'll cry. I've emailed the owner and I'm waiting for his answer. As for that one, its 9.500$ but everything is done on it, so there wouldn't be much afterwards. But like Gofast said, its patience and just controlling any sudden impulses and urges to buy.
 
i just wanted to add another thing onto the differential part. while everything he said was true about them. i disagree as to you picking the power trax. i would say choose that if you are going to be primarily off road. but since your truck will still be a daily driver i would stay with a limited slip axle. it allows for the tires to spin at different speeds when making tight corners like you would in parking lots. the powertrax will get more stress on itself and the tires because its trying to keep both tires spinning the same speed but the outside tire will want to be spinning faster.
 
If I do get two limited slip differential, rear and front, two new ones and not torsens, (is there only gear type limited slips?) how much strain are we talking about for light offroading and mudding? I'm not planning to sink my truck in a mudpit. Will even remote offroading and mudding undermine the new LSD's and burn them out entirely after a short while..?


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=45.580309,-73.542488
 
Sup Guys, found a well cleaned and low mileage, only 50 000, 2002 Ranger XLT. Its 4x4 with a 4.0L Engine, V6 with automatic transmission. Its 5.9k and I can most likely knock off a grand or even maybe two off of it. Its looking to be a really good truck and the price is almost nothing. And that leaves a lot of money for good axle change, tires and lift kits. What do you all think?

There would be a bit more modifications to do on it, I realize but since this truck isn't talking most of my budget out, it seemed decent if not amazing. I fear the year though, 02 seemed to be a very bad year for the Ranger though. Is there anything I need to worry 'bout for the 02 Rangers that could go very wrong?

Thank you.
 
i just wanted to add another thing onto the differential part. while everything he said was true about them. i disagree as to you picking the power trax. i would say choose that if you are going to be primarily off road. but since your truck will still be a daily driver i would stay with a limited slip axle. it allows for the tires to spin at different speeds when making tight corners like you would in parking lots. the powertrax will get more stress on itself and the tires because its trying to keep both tires spinning the same speed but the outside tire will want to be spinning faster.

As long as my tires have the same pressure in it, I never have had a problem with the rear binding or staying locked in parking lots. If I pull out into oncoming traffic in a hurry with a lot of gas it'll lock up, but my wife and I both drive it with no problems. I need to stress that this has been my experience for the no-slip only. I had a lock-rite in my old ranger and that sounded like firecrackers in the bed. lol

Besides, you can install the powertrax yourself!

Svadilfari: That is a great price for a ranger. Almost too good. Before you purchase a ranger (or any vehicle that is WAY under blue book) get a carfax report on the VIN and look at the door tag closely for "alterations" and such. If the truck is legit, thats a good price... but if it turns up stolen a year later the cops will just take your ride and insurance usually doesn't cover anything!
 
It's from a dealer. So I kind of have my doubts about stolen issues. In any case, before buying it i will test drive it myself and also bring it to the repair shop and have a full on inspection on it.

Is there anything I should watch out for the 02 year when it's considering Rangers XLT's?
 
Many stolen vehicles have been sold through dealers. The sneaky bastards steal a car, say a Red 2000 ranger. They find another 2000 red ranger in a parking lot, copy that vin number, then make it up on a VIN tag. They adhere it over the old one on the driver's side dash. Bring it to another state (states have their own DMVs so they rarely communicate with others) and when you look up the vin on that red 2000 ranger, it comes up clean (because the original vin underneath is the one reported stolen). Once in another state, it can easily come into the hands of a dealer. A lot of dealers skimp on a vehicles history and so to them it appears legit also. Then you buy it. A year later the cops finally catch up to it in your driveway and take it away.

Its just good to make sure for yourself the vehicle's history. Especially when getting a really good deal. I always worry that there is a hidden reason why it is so cheap...

The only gremlins you should watch for in the '02 rangers are the timing chain rattle and if your trans starts to slide into gear with soft shifts. So, when you take it for a test drive listen for a rattling noise from the engine between 2000-3500rpm. This is the timing chains. Then (if its an auto) floor that bitch and feel the shift from 1-2 and 2-3. If it slides or slips when shifting then your separator plate gasket is probably torn (common problem). Also, shift from drive to reverse and note if there is a few seconds delay. This is another sign of said gasket. And lastly, try engine braking with the transmission in 1. If there is no engine braking in 1 this is yet another sign of said gasket. Its not the end of the world if you have a blown gasket. Just drop the trans pan, pull the filter and valve body. Replace said gasket (this is a good time for a shift kit and boost valve along with EPC solenoid since you're there) and then button it all up. Just take note of the shift linkage/arm and you'll need an inch-pound torque wrench.

Either way, its a good idea to change the oil in your engine, transmission, transfer case, front and rear diff when you get it.
 
I'll check anyway, but still. I like to have faith in Quebecers, but alas, you are right, you never know. Defintely don't want the cops to come visit. I don't think they'll like the 5x8' Rebel Flag in my room, haha!

Alright. Basically screaming to me watch out for that damned blown gasket while keeping a heads up for that Timing Chain. Doesn't seem to problematic for how cheap it is. I'm sure a full inspection of it will also help pin-point anything else but I'll mention those two things to the mechanic at the same time to see if he can take an extra care if I end up buying this Ranger.

In the end, if I do buy it, I'll most likely swap out everything. Both axles would need to be changed to stronger axles, most likely an 8.8 for the rear and a Dana 44 TTB for the front. Looking towards 4.56 for the gear ratios, unless I find a really good deal for 5.12's. 33's seem to be a good size for starting tires. Still unsure 'bout the differentials though. Limited Slip seems fine and grand, but if its going to break every three to four months, I'll just go with a Powertrax-no slip and learn how to drive the truck so it doesn't lock every time I press on the gas pedal. As for the lift, I was gonna go for something along 2'' with a torsion crank and 4'' suspension lift. Would I be able to add another 2'' of body lift? Or seeing as it all equals to 8'' in the end, I would need to change my driveshaft and modify the steering?
 
Oh. I didn't realise the powertrax wasn't a full time locker. My dad has something similar in our cj5. When under power it locks but when the idle floats its open. That's definitely a good choice to go with
 
You shouldn't be replacing any differential every 3-4 months. The torsen limited slips were prone to breaking, but the clutch types are reliable. The clutches wear out and you need to replace them. If you drive conservative they can last 50K+. Beat the shit out of them and get one wheel spinning a lot off road and you might need to change them at 10K.

Any 4.0L ranger will already have an 8.8 rear end. If you were to swap out the Dana 35 IFS for another axle, I would run a solid axle instead of a TTB axle. Anyway, the 4 inch lift kind of incorperates the "torsion bar crank". There are also kits that eliminate the torsion bar and let you install coil springs (awesome!). You will see guys that run the 4 inch suspension lift and 3 inch body lift with 35s. You can do this, too. But every time you drop that baby in 4LOW and/or get aggressive with the gas pedal you have a greater risk of carnage with your IFS than you would with a stronger axle (remember, even a stronger axle is prone to breaking, or trans, or Xcase, or driver's ego...) These are the risks you accept when beating on your truck off road.

Also, you do not need to do everything at once. You can purchase a body lift now and run 33" tires. Once those guys wear out add your suspension lift or SAS and step up to 35" tires. Then regear for your optimal setup. Remember, you do not need to do all of this at once.
 
Alright, so I think I've got everything I wanted.
I want to thank you all and especially Gofast for being an extraordinary help into deciding and helping understand more 'bout the Ranger mechanics!

I am putting this threat on hiatus for the moment. Before I buy myself a new truck, I'm planning to sell my current Honda Civic DX (If any one wants it, please do raise your voice, it will so make it easier then waiting long hours for someone to be simply interested) and then with luck, a used Ranger ready to be modified and have a hell of a good owner will present itself in my driveway. When that happens, I will gladly start a build thread to show the trucks progression!

Once again, thank you everyone and looking forward for everyones opinions, comments when its time to build :)
 

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