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Ranger 1 ton?


rdsrds123

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2014
Messages
170
Vehicle Year
2007
Transmission
Manual
Hi, looking to buy another Ranger. I'm thinking something with the Duratec 2.3 cuz I like that engine. My plan is to do upgrades to the suspension, axle and brakes to increase the load capacity to something like those old Toyota 1 tons from years past. Searching this forum, there is a lot of information about lifting but can't find anything just on adding load capacity other than coil shocks.

I don't know where to begin. I'm looking at regular cab 2WD automatic as my subject vehicle. Should I expect to have to do a lift?

I need a higher axle ratio, I think a 4:10 is available? My last 2.3 could not tow a wet paper bag, as it had the 3.73. Are even higher axle ratio available? 4:88? Can I keep the existing axle and replace the gearing?

I want to still keep a decent ride. Coil spring shocks add 500# capacity, but I need more. Existing springs sag the rear greatly even with a modest load. Guess that is for a good ride? Can I totally replace the leaf springs with what I want from a suspension shop? Or will they add leaves? Is there a Ford OEM rear sway bar I can add?

Brakes. Need brakes too. Are there stock upgrades? Front and rear? Maybe brakes from a 4WD will swap?

That's for starter questions. Not really sure what all I would need here. Possibly need to lift things, and then it gets very interesting concerning fitting upgrade compatible parts.

Maybe someone knowledgeable on late Rangers can give me their idea of what they would do using commonly available parts to achieve a larger load capacity? TIA
 
Depends on how much capacity you need.

If you have an 8.8 rear there are a lot of options for gears.

Can add as much spring as you want, but you need to watch the gross axle rating.

Then the frame is next to look at.


If you build your own heavy duty frame, then you can take the suspension from a 3/4t ford, narrow it down to work with your Ranger.
 
Depends on how much capacity you need.

If you have an 8.8 rear there are a lot of options for gears.

Can add as much spring as you want, but you need to watch the gross axle rating.

Then the frame is next to look at.


If you build your own heavy duty frame, then you can take the suspension from a 3/4t ford, narrow it down to work with your Ranger.
 
Thanks. Changing frames is not something I would do. It does sometimes seem like the stock Ranger frame is a weak point in the vehicle, but in a different way than those old Toyotas. Those Toyotas just rusted out, but the Ranger frame does not seem as strong to begin with. Lots of times I see where they broke in half in the middle . I was thinking of welding on replacement frame parts aftermarket in this area for strength.

I looked at the brake section of TRS and do see a confusing selection of choices for brakes or axles. Not sure if Explorer swaps for a later Ranger is possible. Would need the larger axle(8.8 or 9"?) to begin with it appears. From there I would need to find what drums work. Would ABS still work? Seems like rear disc won't do for a capacity upgrade.

With a 8.8 or 9" axle is gross axle rating an issue?
 
Anything you do to strengthen the frame and suspension is going to add weight to the truck.

Your truck still has a maximum GVWR that it can weigh.

A reg cab, 2.3, auto trans, has a legal maximum GVWR of 4,300 lbs,

Stock it has a max payload of 1,130 lbs that's including driver, Ford assumes driver weighs 150 lbs..
1,130 - 150 = actual 980 lbs payload, Let's say you weigh 250 lbs, now payload is 880 lbs.

Let's say you add 200 lbs in heavier suspension and frame work.

Now your legal max payload is 680 lbs

Add the 50 lbs dog and 110 lbs woman, now your payload is 520 lbs
 
I believe youse all are correct. Oh well. Thanks
 
IIRC, the 4x4, 4.0, automatic, extended cabs had the highest weight rating typically unless you stumble across an oddball like my blue 2000 Ranger (2wd, 3.0, manual, extended cab) that came from the factory with the heavy duty suspension/brake package.

The 4.0 or an engine swap will give you the most power to pull things.

Legally, your GVWR is your max weight no matter what you do to suspension/axles/brakes/drivetrain/etc. If you need 1-ton capacity, you really just need a full-size truck.

That all said, I have upgraded a lot of stuff on these trucks and I’ve hauled stupid amounts of weight. I’ll detail that stuff later if anyone is interested. Also over the years I’ve collected bigger trucks for heavier weights. My F-150 has legit 1-ton suspension under it. Then there’s my dump truck that I’m fixing, F-350 cab & chassis, which has about the highest weight rating of the F-350 trucks of its era.
 
head into the tech section on axles and suspension (specifically "Rear suspension" section) - there is stuff on adding a leaf, replacing with chevy hangar and leaf setups, etc... the 8.8" axle uses the same gears as the 7.5" internally but is heavier rated... don't know that you could get to 1 ton, but adding a fair amount and still keeping bolt pattern and replacement parts without making a huge change should be doable.
course a guy could aways take a 9" and redo the hubs to have the right bolt spacing.



as far as gears available - I redid the speed chart and added all the factory stock gear combo's as well as aftermarket - so a quick paste and you have all the gear sets available in the 7.5" and 8.8" realm
(you can go all the way to 4.56 stock and 4.88 aftermarket)
1742160978674.png
 
head into the tech section on axles and suspension (specifically "Rear suspension" section) - there is stuff on adding a leaf, replacing with chevy hangar and leaf setups, etc... the 8.8" axle uses the same gears as the 7.5" internally but is heavier rated... don't know that you could get to 1 ton, but adding a fair amount and still keeping bolt pattern and replacement parts without making a huge change should be doable.
course a guy could aways take a 9" and redo the hubs to have the right bolt spacing.



as far as gears available - I redid the speed chart and added all the factory stock gear combo's as well as aftermarket - so a quick paste and you have all the gear sets available in the 7.5" and 8.8" realm
(you can go all the way to 4.56 stock and 4.88 aftermarket)
View attachment 125053
I have 5:13 for both front and back. 8.8 and d-35. Maybe update your chart...
 
wow, where did you get 513's? I looked over yukon, summit, jeggs, etc - figured if yukon didn't have most nobody would.
 
wow, where did you get 513's? I looked over yukon, summit, jeggs, etc - figured if yukon didn't have most nobody would.
 
ouch that's pricey... I googled 5.13's directly since none came up on the typical listing pages and found a couple hits both said "not available" but only ~$270. Thanks, will update as it is nothing to do, and they show 300+ in stock so definitely not dead.
 
happen to know what the tooth count is to get to that ratio? (I'm assuming 41/8, but looking for confirmation)
 
Last edited:
nothing urgent, I couldn't make the math work out with any other typical pinion counts so figure it must be 41/8 and not urgent at all... not enthused to get around to developing it into a pyhton or javascript or or - whatever it takes to make it a dynamic calculator instead of static...
 

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