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Question about winch


I understand the principle of these non-metallic straps that are very strong but if they break they don't end up taking your head off like a chain or cable could do.
So, if you have a winch, you have cable. Is it safe? Do you use it in combination with the safe cords somehow?
Second question how much should the winch capacity be? Let's say it's 5000 lbs. To me in theory that means you could mount the winch on a 2-story building and lift the Ranger up into the air by its hitch. That seems plenty powerful. But maybe I'm missing something.
And there are different speeds. I would think if they don't have adjustable speed then slower is better?
I don't mind horribly getting like 9000 lb winch but the thing is that's more weight to be carrying around, takes a bit more space, and they will take more juice. But if you're running the engine while you are winching maybe the power draw doesn't matter except in the sense you want your wiring to spec.
Does anyone use those Anderson connectors? They seem pretty good, for the front you could have a set coming off the battery and for the rear, I'd have a separate deep cycle battery in the back to run accessories anyway. I'm not excited about wiring from the front to back but the right way to do it would be have the auto disconnect circuit so the rear battery charges but never draw off the truck's battery.
Seems like let's say a battery has 105 amp-hrs that's really not a whole lot, it's like hardly a kwhr, right?
Then you'd have a trolling motor battery right there too if you ever wanted one.
I'd definitely get the wireless control for the winch that's way better than wired. If they work.
The synthetic line is an option but each line has its place. Synthetic line has a certain climate it's intended for. Not really a good option for a rocky area like moab. Yes you still want to use your tree straps and the like. lil_blue_ford is right about using soft shackles with them as well.
As for weight rating and what to get, the proper equation is 1.5x the weight of the intended vehicle to be recovered. I'm saving for a 12k or 13k when I am ready for a winch due to the larger trucks that often need assistance
 
The synthetic line is an option but each line has its place. Synthetic line has a certain climate it's intended for. Not really a good option for a rocky area like moab. Yes you still want to use your tree straps and the like. lil_blue_ford is right about using soft shackles with them as well.
As for weight rating and what to get, the proper equation is 1.5x the weight of the intended vehicle to be recovered. I'm saving for a 12k or 13k when I am ready for a winch due to the larger trucks that often need assistance
I have used both, but I am still new to synthetic. I bought synthetic because I thought it was safer and would spool back without kinking. I just installed one last fall. It's come through this very wet and icy winter just fine. My winch is mounted under the truck but upside down. (Not all winches will work that way.) My guess is that the water drains off. So far, I have been pleased.

I had a steel cable for about 20 years. I had seen some really ugly rusted cables. So when I first bought it, I addressed the problem by spooling out the entire cable like a clothesline. I mixed up some slow set epoxy and wiped it down (wear a rubber glove), let it sit all night, and gave it a second coat. That cable stayed rust free for as long as I had it. Also pleased.

I found this brief article helpful.

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I had a steel cable for about 20 years. I had seen some really ugly rusted cables. So when I first bought it, I addressed the problem by spooling out the entire cable like a clothesline. I mixed up some slow set epoxy and wiped it down (wear a rubber glove), let it sit all night, and gave it a second coat. That cable stayed rust free for as long as I had it. Also pleased.
This can be addressed by properly lubricating the cable. Not many people do that because they don’t want to get their hands messy while using it. You should be wearing gloves for safety anyway.

There are special lubricants made for wire rope. Cranes and hoists use them. It’s more than just preventing rust. It lubricates the strands so they can move against each other easier with less friction as the cable flexes, stretches and relaxes under load. It is beneficial for the longevity of the cable. I have debated lubricating mine. But have not done it yet, though I do have the lube on hand.
 
This can be addressed by properly lubricating the cable. Not many people do that because they don’t want to get their hands messy while using it. You should be wearing gloves for safety anyway.

There are special lubricants made for wire rope. Cranes and hoists use them. It’s more than just preventing rust. It lubricates the strands so they can move against each other easier with less friction as the cable flexes, stretches and relaxes under load. It is beneficial for the longevity of the cable. I have debated lubricating mine. But have not done it yet, though I do have the lube on hand.

Any idea what it is made of? There are some bike chain lubricants that have graphite in it and it dries after a bit to minimize attracting dirt and road grime.

The chain still gets dirty but greatly reduces dirt induced chain wear. None of my chains have shown any “chain stretch” of consequence as a result over the past 13 - 16 years.
 
Any idea what it is made of? There are some bike chain lubricants that have graphite in it and it dries after a bit to minimize attracting dirt and road grime.

The chain still gets dirty but greatly reduces dirt induced chain wear. None of my chains have shown any “chain stretch” of consequence as a result over the past 13 - 16 years.
I don’t recall which one I have. I just did a google search for wire rope lubricant and a bunch of them came up. Most say they are good for rope and chain.
 
I would certainly lube mine if I had one. And keep it wound up tight.
It would also protect it from rust to a good extent
One time getting that thing all battle-ax'd and tangled in dry knots should cure that
They do have a light-weight, 2500 lb I think, there at FH around $89 I think it was. Could sure be handy even if you had to double it and make shorter pulls
 
Here is what I have on hand.
20230314_191116.jpg


I have this for the motorcycle chain. Not sure how well it would work on the wire rope.
20230314_191143.jpg
 
I'd think spool it all the way out and get all the tension off of it, then use some type of cradle to slide along the bottom to hold any spillage on it longer while making way with the oil to the end. Maybe leave it overnight to allow as much as possible to soak in and bond, before spooling it back on as tight as possible.
That should offer much better resistance to water absorption also increasing rope life
 

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