putting 2.3 in a toyota

[mototrevo]

im located in spokane wa, i can get the truck from the guy with or without the engine so if the guys want it ill get it but he wants an extra $350 for the truck with the engine, as far as that goes you can have the tranny and t-case also!

and to the guy who said dont do it,check out the rbv metamorphisis section on the fordzuki--
he's running a 2.3 with original 4speed-- look at that then tell me thats not cool
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1481

 

[mhughes165]

Nope, zilch, I never claimed to. I have often marveled at their ability to shed the rocker panels though...

I was saying regaurdless of what axles are in it, you WILL break less stuff with a four banger than a smallblock, your statement was that if you get a kit and put a smallblock in it you will have less breakage, which doesn't make much sense. More power = more busted stuff, I don't care whose sticker is on it.

I also have a hard time buying that the puny little axles in those trucks are as strong as the ones in a F-350, but I have never been around one. Being rated to carry 2000 lbs (which I think even the 7.5 is) is alot different than being a "one ton" axle. It is rare to have very much carnage with a D35 and 8.8 (or even a 7.5) in a RBV as well...

if u have no experience on the subject then dont give input, if u have never owned a toyota or been around them then u cant understand, they are approvamtley the same physical diameters as a ford 9" and d44, but with considerably better components. stick to your realm of knowledge.

keep in mind i work on MANY MANY different wheelers every day for a living, so i know what works and whats a waste of time, i never told him not to put the 2.3 but simply that the gains will be non existant. Also, i never said that a small block would cause less breakage, i said that it WONT break, simply becuiase the rears are just that strong


and idk where u are getting your figures but a long bed toyota is rated to tow 4500lbs, try atleast googling something before u start to tell people what todo

 

[Totalled]

once again a disbeliever, u can beleive what u want, i know what works time and time again, with just a set of longfields for the front axle and ur set (if u know how to wheel anyways u never turn the wheel when ur hammering the gas)

oh ya both those trucks have been wheeled every weekend for the past 7 years with teh same set of rears under each of them, one on 38's and one on 44's

Yeah.. I've seen what 44s do to a toy front when Wheelin

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

im just tellin ya cause i have built more then a handfull of these trucks with everything from a ford small block and chevy small blocks and also buick motors. adapters exist for all those motors and will be the absolute smallest amount of fab work and the most reliable setup u can get. if u go completely custom like u are planning it will break and not be anywhere nearly as reliable as running toyota drivetrain.

This statement is what confused me, because by going completely custom with a 2.3 he would run the risk of breaking stuff he wouldn't with a 351 and a kit or keeping the stock drivetrain (which I agree with)

if u have no experience on the subject then dont give input, if u have never owned a toyota or been around them then u cant understand, they are approvamtley the same physical diameters as a ford 9" and d44, but with considerably better components. stick to your realm of knowledge.

keep in mind i work on MANY MANY different wheelers every day for a living, so i know what works and whats a waste of time, i never told him not to put the 2.3 but simply that the gains will be non existant. Also, i never said that a small block would cause less breakage, i said that it WONT break, simply because the rears are just that strong


and idk where u are getting your figures but a long bed toyota is rated to tow 4500lbs, try atleast googling something before u start to tell people what to do

I agreed with you on the minimal gains issue from the start.

There have been mix ups on here before when someone read that an axle could hold xlbs and call it a one ton axle, I was just trying to clairify that it wasn't another case.

BTW towing 4500lbs doesn't mean your axle is rated to actually carry 4500lbs, you should only have a couple hundred on your trailer ball. Axle rating has more to do with what you can put in the bed. I was using 2klbs as a example, not what the actual rating is, because depending on how you look at it, it could technically be a one ton axle... but not really. A Ranger 8.8 is good for 2750 lbs.

I really don't see a reason to get all defensive about it.

 

[mhughes165]

Yeah.. I've seen what 44s do to a toy front when Wheelin

i said WHEELIN, not rock crawling, there isnt a drop of mud of those rear and no mud residue, they arent rock crawling axles there real wheeling axles, considering it looks like he wasw goin down a drit road and that happened its not wheeling, if it was completely covered in a few inches of mud then i could see that i broke while wheeling, to me it just looks like someone didnt build the axle properly and put EXTREME stress on the axle itself




and 85ranger 4x4, what i was saying is that the small block swaps have been proven reliable time and time again, the parts arent one off, and are abundantly available, the one off parts that will be done for a ford 2.3 swap will cost more to replace then those for a small blcok, also at close to stock height it will smack the oil pan on the axle where as the small block sits higher in the bay and will not smack.

 

[Explodin' Bryan]

There are two ways I know of to have an overdrive manual transmission between a Ford 2.3 and a transfer case:

1. Mix-&-match Ford and Jeep T-5s. Ford used the T-5 behind the 2.3, and Jeep CJs from '82-'86 used T-5s in front of a Dana 300 TC. That would give you the passenger-side drop to mate to the passenger side Toyota diff.

2. Find a M5OD-R1 from a 2.3 4x4 Ranger, vintage '89-'94. The bellhousing is part of the case, so you can't use a 2WD tranny. You could then use a BW-1350 or 1354 TC, but then you have to use a driver's side drop front axle. I would swap in a Narrow Track Full Size Jeep Dana 44 ('80+) as mentioned above. Get a non-disconnect version from a Wagoneer. The J-trucks are Wide Track. NT is about 61" wide (WMS-WMS) and the WT is about 66", IIRC. They are 6-lug like the Toys.

Either case might require driveshaft changes as well. If it were me, I'd go with #1 since you can keep the Toy axles AND you have more options with a Dana 300 TC, like twin-sticking and a 4:1 low-range gearset from the aftermarket. Of course, I'd also use a turbo 2.3, too.

 

[4x4junkie]

Rock crawling isn't wheeling!?? Damn, that's a new one...


Do you know what a birfield joint is? How many splines are on the shaft going into that birfield (and how big it is)? And how about the birfield itself? Anyone that knows Toyota axles knows those things are just bombs waiting to explode as well (not surprising, since it's just a basic CV joint).
Then you have those thin non-vented brake rotors. Yeah just like 1-ton stuff... (not)

I suppose a Toyota 8" REAR could be argued as having a small overall strength edge over a Ranger 8.8" rear, but it definitely doesn't over a 31 spline Explorer 8.8 rear.

You probably should check up on those axles some more before being so optimistic about them.

 

[Totalled]

Oh, you're one of those.. yeah.. muddin ≠ wheelin. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[97BlackBetty]

Alright I can't help myself on this one. HAHAHA Its a piss war.