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Project SVT


I know, that's why i dont understand why everyone switches to Dana's or 14 bolts.

mine was a 28 spline when i bought it, i don't think you would have a problem (at least not for a while) with running that axle. It is the same as the 31 spline except the last 3" or so where it enters the 3rd member has is a bit thinner to run fit the 28 spline diff.

Yeah, thats where my axle broke...
SVT160.jpg

SVT
 
oh so you already had the 9" in there. Now im tracking
 
No, it was an 8.8, but it was a 28 spline, just like the 28 spline 9" I have now...I don't have the full float outers to make the 35 spline shafts fit like I want em to, not yet anyways...
SVT
 
Well, I finally was able to do some more on my doubler build...As small is this combo is going to be, I will not need to make any mods to my fuel tank :yahoo: I'm at the point now where I need to get the end cap welded to the case, Need to get my intermediate shaft made now that I have a final measurement of my length, and I need to fab up the plate to mount the 2 cases together. I'm thinking of making a crossmember mount attach at the plate between the 2 cases since I'm going to be using 1/4" steel for this...Without further procrastination, here are the pics :D
doubler024.jpg

doubler025.jpg

For the endcap I used 3/8" x 2" aluminum plate and cut it down to size...
doubler030.jpg

doubler031.jpg

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Here you can see where the shift fork sticks out (barely) and needs to be trimmed...
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Here is the clearance with the fork trimmed. It's real close to contacting the plate when in low range, I might have to trim another 1/16" later...
doubler028.jpg

doubler029.jpg

While fitting the 2 cases together for measurements, etc. I decided to check my dana 20 for proper engagement. I had front low range, but it wouldn't go in low range on the rear, just neutral and high range. I pulled the cover and found this inside, a 4" bolt, some roller bearings, and a radiator cap. Wonder what that was doing in there :icon_confused:
doubler033.jpg

doubler034.jpg

This is a pic of the inside of my 20. Oil is a little dirty, but all is well and works great, without the radiator cap in the way!
doubler035.jpg

Here is what the 2 cases look like how they will be mounted. Because the 20 is so small, I had flip the reduction box 180* so the two would fit together. This actually worked out better cause of the way the reduction box shifts. It gives me a better angle to hook a cable shifter to it...
doubler038.jpg

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doubler040.jpg

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This is under SVT showing how much room I have between the trans and the fuel tank. I have right at 17 inches...
doubler045.jpg

With a full 2 inches between the cases (for the mounting plate, which I have figured it out to actually be only 1.5 inches case to case) I still have room (about an inch) for it to fit without fuel tank modification...
doubler049.jpg

doubler050.jpg

So now I'm at the point where I need to get my endcap welded to the case, and build my plate that will mount the two cases together. I need to get the plate that will mount to the reduction box which is the biggest piece an I don't have that yet. I've got a buddy that will get me a piece, then I need to get a small length (only 2 inches in length) of about 5 inch diameter pipe to mount between the two plates and get that fabbed. I plan to drill multiple holes in the plate that bolts to the 20 so I will be able to clock the case up or down where I need it and fine tune my driveshaft angles. Next will be sending my intermediate shafts off to get them machined and fitted. Slowly but surely it's coming together :icon_thumby:
SVT
 
You aren't shy with the pics huh. Honestly have no idea what its supposed to look like since I am still new to these types of things. Looks like its coming along though.
 
Something else I noticed that was wierd on my 20...I can shift the front to high and the rear to low range, but I can't shift the front to low and the rear to high range :icon_confused: There must be a notch in the shift rails preventing this from happening, which in theory would be a safety lockout so the rear doesn't end up pushing the front...
Tomorrow if time allows I will start fabbing up the plate that will mount to the 20 and get the multitude of holes drilled for the mounting/clocking ring
SVT
 
You aren't shy with the pics huh. Honestly have no idea what its supposed to look like since I am still new to these types of things. Looks like its coming along though.

Nope, not shy at all. Actually I try to get as much detail as I can for anyone else wanting to do the same, as well as give me a reference to look back at if I ever need to :icon_thumby:
SVT
 
I was wondering where I put that stuff!
 
I was wondering where I put that stuff!

Geeez.....I know ya got mad at each other......but really......:icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl:








AWWWW....Rick and Jay have made up........:sexe:

l8r, John
 
I was wondering where I put that stuff!
What stuff :icon_confused: :dunno: :D
Oh you mean the material I will be using...Actually the only thing big enough is the 10" channel I got from John a while back...It's only about a foot long, but it's long enough that I can pull it out of the stock pile :icon_thumby:
Geeez.....I know ya got mad at each other......but really......:icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl:

AWWWW....Rick and Jay have made up........:sexe:

l8r, John

John, really!! You know I don't smoke!! :thefinger: :icon_rofl:
SVT
 
Well, I got a little more done today, but not much. I did some more measuring, and I started fabbing the mounting plate for the 20. I don't like how it turned out ( I like things to be near perfect), so I might redo the mounting plate. Here are some pics of what I have so far...
doubler051.jpg

doubler052.jpg

doubler053.jpg

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I'm gonna need a 4 inch OD diameter pipe, 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, and 2 inches long to go between the two mounting plates. So I need to go hit up the metal scrapyard and see if they have a piece...
SVT
 
hows that awd t case doing you

Actually, I haven't been able to use it...first I thought the case was slipping, turned out at the time I thought it was the hub, as the passenger tire was not turning...Then after getting under SVT I finally figured out that it was the passenger shaft not engaging the diff from doing the C-clip eliminator, but instead of using a spring (which I didn't have at the time) I used the rubber boot under compression to keep the shaft in...It worked well for about 3 years ( since I installed my gears up front)...So I guess the good news is that I still have 4WD and nothing is broken, just need to get and install a spring...I tried turning the front driveshaft and it takes quite a bit of force to turn it, so I'd say the clutch pack is still good and doing its job...for now. I have another AWD case that I was going to try and do something with, and I still might, but with as much progress as I am making on my doubler, I'll have it done much sooner than I thought...
SVT
 

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