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Project OUTRANGEROUS 4.6L Install / Phase 2


RJAAAAAA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2011
Messages
99
City
gettysburg, pa.
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
I can do all things thru Christ who strenghtens me
Well here we go this is the fun part, ready for the install.I picked up a nice 4.0 radiator today out of a Mercury Mountianeer, looks like a 4 row w/ built in trans cooler. It fit like a glove, same brackets and all. I still have room to mount the trans cooler in front. Still need an elect. fan, the one from the CV looks too big but might be able to cut it down. I also pulled the oil filter mounting bracket off another CV and put it on. Received my Trans dapt oil filter relocation kit today. Installed the the stock exhaust manifolds and starter. Looks like the flex pipe off the manifolds is going to work, not sure what type of clamps to use though. I'm going to set the engine in tomorrow.
Use the link to see the prior posts
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116000
 
Last edited:
Keep us posted on your progress...sounds OUTRANGEROUS!:headbang:
 
iNSTALL A SUCCESS & LOOKS GREAT!!!

Thanks for the encouragement.
Set the engine in this morning and it didn't fit like it was suposed to, last test fit was without the starter on and it was now rubbing the upper control arm bracket on the passengers side.(It fit between the frame rail but it was touching), I had done some grinding on this for the header flange but didn't think the starter was an issue. Also the holes I drilled in the motor mount plates were a little to far back, I could have gotten it in but I was working by myself and it was easier to drill new holes 3/4" forward and drop it in, had plenty of room forward.
Here is what I had to do for the extra room for the starter.
The bracket for the upper control arm stuck out a little past the edge of the frame and had to be modified.
bracket
CONTRLARMMOD1.jpg


I cut the rear of the bracket off and ground it down to move it back about 3/8", about 1/8" inside thr frame rail. I heated the frame rail with a torch and hammered it back about 1/4".
CONTRLARMMOD2.jpg

I rewelded the back or the bracket and painted the area.
CONTRLARMMOD34.jpg

CONTRLARMMOD3.jpg

I redrilled the motor mounts and set the engine in again. This time it was a success, it dropped right into the mounting holes. yaaaahoooo!
engineinsmall.jpg

oops celebrated too soon. The header flanges on both side were still touching the control arm brackets. I raised the engine up and put some 1/2" shims under the mm and it raised the engine just enough to clear everything.
It really looked good sitting in there
MOTORIN1.jpg

the exhaust manifold flanges were easily accessible passenger goes outside the frame, drivers side inside, both are do able though. Steering linkage looks as though it should clear also. Now for the homerun, I bolted up the rear motor mount and stuck in the driveshaft WOW! it fit. No cutting or shortening needed. I have about 3/4" of play in the shaft and I was wondering if this is enough to cover any change in lenght due
to compression of the suspension ??? Anyone know how much free play is needed on the end of the driveshaft?
Dropped the new radiator and shroud into the front and as you can see plenty of room, I'm going to try to use the CV elect. fan and graft it into the fan shroud, that's another project.
RADCOWL.jpg

All in all it was a good day. Thank you LORD !!!
 
Exhaust & steering work

Had a beautiful day today and worked on exhaust and steering. It was really a blessing when I went to check the fit for the steering linkage. It slide right into place, it fit great. When I went to install the bolts that hold the linkage together I found that the huge nut welded to the linkage hit the edge of the valve cover, it would twist pass but I don't want to leave it like that.
STEERING1.jpg
[/IMG]
I ground the nut down and rounded the corners, cut the bolt off flush with nut and ground off nut and cut and ground the head of the bolt.
STEERING3.jpg
[/IMG]
Everything misses now but I'm still not satisfied, if the motor would torque a little it might pinch at the wrong moment.
STEERING2.jpg

I believe I can shift the steering linkage over a tad by loosening the bolts on the firewall. I was amazed, the lower end dropped right on. The exhaust manifold even had a little bow in it that gave the linkage some room. Thank you Lord!
I borrowed a MIG welder today WOW what a tool. Now I can weld the exhaust with no problems. Sweeeeet.
I ordered a set of 50" side exhaust pipes from JC Whitney. I fabed up the cats off the manifolds, the pass. side rolled outside the frame nice, plenty of wheel clearance. Will have to wait for side pipes to come to see how the outlet side off the cats will connect, thing are a little tight here.
PASSCAT1.jpg
[/IMG]
PASSCAT2.jpg

The drivers side is another story, the manifold aims inside the frame rail here and it goes between the bellhousing and the shield on the frame for the gas and brake lines.
DRVSIDECAT1.jpg
[/IMG]
I need to get outside the frame and the best place I see is up front right between the frame rail and the torsion bar, problem is this is pretty tight turns from the cat but it all fit. This mig welder sure is the ticket for this work.
DRVSIDECAT2a.jpg
[/IMG]
Ran out of wire for the welder (Bummer) I'll wait for the side pies to finish.
Things are moving along, looks like the powersteering line should hook up ok and the reservoir. Need to look into fuel pump and lines. Have CV pump.
 
Side pipes

Received my side pipes today from JC Whitney and the look great, raining today so I took the day off but looking at the steering linkage I think I've found an easy fix for the tough squeeze.
Since the steering shafts slide over each other in order to install over steering wheel shaft as shown here.
STEERINGLINK1.jpg

This is where the rub is , I'm going to remove this bolt and grind the nut off to eliminate the interference. The amount of overlap is more than enough.
STEERINGLINK2.jpg

I'm going to drill a 5/16" hole through both pieces on the shaft. This bolt will replace the one removed at top of shaft and serve the same purpose.
STEERINGLINK3.jpg

This will eliminate all the steering linkage problems easily.
 
Steering

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa327/RJAAAAAA/STEERINGLINK1.jpg




i wouldnt go that route if you dont have to. try a different setup. i agree likely you will be fine, but modding the shaft further up to accept a different one may be a better way to go.

Thanks for the input, what do you see as a possible problem here. I believe I'm still going to put a pin in the upper piece that will stay flush, maybe some JB weld on top just to hold it in but still be able to remove it if needed.
Rjaaaaaa
 
Side pipes are in

Side pipes came today and they look great. The chrome looks A1 but I did as the instructions read and polished them with some good chrome polish right out of the box. These are 50" long, I held one up under the truck and I think these things are going to look great. Worked on the pipe connection from the pass. side cat. today. Geeez they're calling for snow here tomorrow, I'll have to move into the garage I guess.
sidepipes.jpg
 
Snow !!!!!

What's wrong with this picture? Last time it snowed in October was 39 years ago. WOW!!!!!
snosmll.jpg


yyyyuuuuuuccccccckkkkkkkk :icon_confused:
Not a good day for working on the truck>
 
Dude, this is awesome.

Where are you? I wanna see this beast in person.
 
They said this is going to be a harsh winter this year and from the looks of it, its true. My truck is ready for it so bring it on.

I wanna know...what makes the 4.6 so special that people swap them in over the 5.0?
 
I wanna know...what makes the 4.6 so special that people swap them in over the 5.0?

More power less money. The 4.6l are sexy motors and I know that just changing the upper and lower intakes from the pre98 stang motors to 99+ was good for 35-40hp depending. at 225hp stock 40 HP is a good gain. They are great powerhouse just REALLY big.
 
More power less money. The 4.6l are sexy motors and I know that just changing the upper and lower intakes from the pre98 stang motors to 99+ was good for 35-40hp depending. at 225hp stock 40 HP is a good gain. They are great powerhouse just REALLY big.



:icon_surprised:












:shok:......i have to go.
 
Damn, do they hook to a 4wd tranny? If so then I know where I can get a ton of them for $240 all day.
 

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