Project: Moose Knuckle; Part III

[86ford]

I'm well aware that 14 bolts center is massive,you can shave them a fair amount without touching the ring gear.wanna get more extreme? shave the ring down to 10 inches and you've gained 2 and a half inches.That's almost the size of a 60 pumpkin but the 14 will hold up behind a big block with 44's

True. The 35 spline 9 inch center sections allow similar durability.

86

 

[4x4builder1]

rockwells high clearanced would be nice and no matter what you probably wont break them even with the stock axles either way you could run air shocks F.O.A has a good set but your probably looking at 2 per corner still cheaper then 4 coilovers

 

[oatmealman]

rockwells high clearanced would be nice and no matter what you probably wont break them even with the stock axles either way you could run air shocks F.O.A has a good set but your probably looking at 2 per corner still cheaper then 4 coilovers

Keep in mind this is his daily driver.rockwells are hella wide.Geared way deep,and heavy.I'd love for this truck to have rocks but i've tried to talk him into it and after much debate i finally got him to decided on one tons because they'll hold as big of a tire as he needs for quite a while.

 

[oatmealman]

True. The 35 spline 9 inch center sections allow similar durability.

86

While the 9 is great the 14 bolt is still stronger and it wouldn't cost anything to leave it stock or shave 2 inches off the bottom except a 4 inch piece of 3/8ths steel.Where the 35 spline 9 section plus shaft is what 1500? and it's still not a full floater.The housing may take some serious abuse on a nine inch but the 14 bolt being a full floater the axle shaft takes no weight of the vehicle so it's by far a stronger design and makes it easier for trail work should he ever snap a shaft.plus the 9 inch only runs a 30 * spline cut while the 14 bolt runs a 37* which is perfect 45* is to much and 30* isn't enough.

 

[4x4builder1]

yeah I know figured the 6.72 gearing would be the deal breaker on that one I try to get eveybody to use em but for a daily driver you at least need the setup I had on the suburban a tilton electric oil pump on each running through coolers with fans and the front bushings are still an issue

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Good. This is what I want. Debate with actual information. Not "**** you, this is better" shit.

If I did a 14 I could run what ever drop I want, and use C's from a Chebby 60 keepin shit cheap. Sawzall and a junk yard! I know of a few destroyed cheb 60s layin around.

Shafts look to be the most expensive part.


So for suspension, air shocks... Lookin like 2 in each corner? A trs member is runnin singles on each corner. I should find his build.

Like I asked before, think some hrew would be a decent material for shock towers? Though I've found some sources to get DOM for cheaper, it's still not exactly budget friendly, but could be done. My bender won't bend it by any means though.


Now, debte: Heimed radius arms w/ trac, 3 link, 4 link, missing link, 1 link.

 

[4x4builder1]

4 link it show off the skills man! and for the tube Dom and Hrew can be the same material its the process thats different. obviously cold working (dom) will be stronger then most heat processes Hrew. If you use a high strength steel and incorporate gussets youll be fine just use a good thickness. Id use an engine cage to tie in the two front towers. Just take into account you may need to pull the motor and for the tubes above it make them removable with bolt flanges Ill get some pics of it

 

[PaleBlue90]

oh dear god lol. so your giveing up on the 44 already? im still shocked you broke it at zombiefest so quickly...

strange how i beat the liveing fu** out of my blazer and only had a starter fail lol

 

[NMB2]

what did you break on the 44? is it stock?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

air shocks should be just fine, the sway-a-ways seem to be the best ones out there from what I have read. They support 1200lbs per corner so they should be perfectly fine with 1 at each corner.

 

[metalmacguyver]

Think about it like this, My truck has been scaled at 5300lbs. subtrac the weight of wheels tires and axles and you probably take away 1000lbs. Your left with 4300lbs of sprung weight. That number would also include my fat ass but whatever, call it 4100 of sprung weight, which is all that matters. You would be left with a 700lb margin with 4 1200lb rated shocks.

 

[oatmealman]

Good. This is what I want. Debate with actual information. Not "**** you, this is better" shit.

If I did a 14 I could run what ever drop I want, and use C's from a Chebby 60 keepin shit cheap. Sawzall and a junk yard! I know of a few destroyed cheb 60s layin around.

Shafts look to be the most expensive part.


So for suspension, air shocks... Lookin like 2 in each corner? A trs member is runnin singles on each corner. I should find his build.

Like I asked before, think some hrew would be a decent material for shock towers? Though I've found some sources to get DOM for cheaper, it's still not exactly budget friendly, but could be done. My bender won't bend it by any means though.


Now, debte: Heimed radius arms w/ trac, 3 link, 4 link, missing link, 1 link.

Heimed radius front:eh they do ok they tend to bind at any real decent articulation and then they have to really be pushed to go any farther.

Heimed radius rear:They have atrocious anti squat numbers will be higher than camel cock causing there rear end to "lift up" and bounce under any real load.If you run heims at the axle end up then and get the radius arms flat and long then it will work,but not as well as a proper 3/4 link setup.

3 Link:Easy to set up,cheaper than 4,they once again tend to bind a little at a fair amount of articulation,it's an ok setup,if your gonna go for a link set up spend the extra time and do a proper 4 link.

4 link parallel:It's a 4 link no doubt but not a proper 4 link.Anything thing with a panhard bar required tends to bind under fair flex like stated earlier.It's easier to set up than a double triangulated for link but if like stated earlier if your gonna spend the time to do links do it properly and do it double triangulated.

4 Link double triangulated:THE PROPER 4 LINK,requires no panhard bar and it's help in place by the triangulated links.They flex amazing,they time a lot more time to set up,and it'll end up running you more than everything except the parallel 4 link.

And finally one links:Easy to setup,cheap cheap cheap,Triangulated 4 link flex can be gotten out of them easily.Doesn't take up a whole lotta space.they can be built out of square.it only requires one joints.Most people use a uni-ball off of international harvesters.

As for materials.If you want a cheaper alternative to dom but higher strength than hrew.run crew.It's not as strong as dom but it's damn close.And buy a real bender damnit.You won't need it for links but buy a real bender damnit.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

oh dear god lol. so your giveing up on the 44 already? im still shocked you broke it at zombiefest so quickly...

strange how i beat the liveing fu** out of my blazer and only had a starter fail lol

I'm not giving up on the 44. I just don't want it anymore.
Shit fatigues with time.

what did you break on the 44? is it stock?

In 3 trips and a few thousand miles on the road I've gone through 2 sets of inner and outter wheel bearings (inner came out in 20 pieces), ball joints are totally shot, blew up a front right U joint, and busted a drivers side axle shaft.

air shocks should be just fine, the sway-a-ways seem to be the best ones out there from what I have read. They support 1200lbs per corner so they should be perfectly fine with 1 at each corner.

They're lookin to be my best bet. Thanks for tunin in!

Think about it like this, My truck has been scaled at 5300lbs. subtrac the weight of wheels tires and axles and you probably take away 1000lbs. Your left with 4300lbs of sprung weight. That number would also include my fat ass but whatever, call it 4100 of sprung weight, which is all that matters. You would be left with a 700lb margin with 4 1200lb rated shocks.

Yes. Yes. Thank you.


I've been readin builds from IHonlyNorth, a Inernational Harverster sight. This guy does some amazing work. Here's the link style system he ran on a customer's 609. (Ended up having to bend the trac bar to clear the oil pan)

And here's the coil over mounts / engine cage

Likes like he used hrew for the cage. But like I said, I've only been able to find it with a .120 wall round here.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Here's with all the support tied in, and bolt flanges together, and c/o's installed

 

[oatmealman]

Bling!