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Project 4x4 Commuter Mazda


Probably a good idea.


Side note, it never rains, but it pours: I am having tranny or transfercase issues,....I am getting excessive thunking when I get on or off the throttle :bawling: Feels like something is gonna break soon...
 
sucks man. I went through the same thing just before my accident...it was getting to the point that I was reaching the limits of the stock RBV drivetrain. Just sit back, relax, and assess the situation, and what you want to do to fix it.
 
Got the diff in, the locker out, the driver's u-joint cleaned up and tacked, and all back together. Tomorrow I will tear down the passenger side, to get the passenger axle shafts back into the diff.

Clean house before moving in:

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So I finally got around to putting the passenger side axle shaft in, and dialed that in today. Means I have 4wd :)

While it was apart I replaced that u-joint with a Napa "Super Strength" u-joint that has a zerk fitting. I am pretty pissed that my expensive Spicer 5-760x's only lasted one year (I claim it is because they are non-geaseable in nature).

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The old u-joint was dried up and in pretty bad shape.
 
the 4.88 ratio and 33's in 4-wheel-lo absolutely rocks :headbang:

Not having a front locker anymore may suck on some of the harder obstacles I like to conquer, but for normal driving around the property and in the snow, it will be very nice to not have to fight the wheel already...its a love hate thing lol.

This is my to do list....and it grows everyday :bawling: Think I will work on items that get the truck back up to par to go on wheeling/camping trips. Aka get my winch back together, and fab some new sliders.

List:

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Yard wheeling, testing new ratio and lack of front locker:

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Not too bad actually for a pavement pounder:

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Ordered a Superwinch, Albright waterproof heavy duty winch solenoid to replace the crappy Smittybilt one (I have been through 2 now):

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Also would like to get a pair of Rigid Industries D2 Duallys with a driving light pattern to even out the light spread. And fill the gaps between the bumper uprights and current 10" bar...

And I just found out the sheet metal shear at work will shear up to 6' sections of 1/4" plate......Now I can get busy there on weekends (plasma, shear, 220v welder, drill press, cutting torch: yay).
 
on your winchline.. check out http://discountwinchline.com/ its a buddy of mine's business. he might be doing another group buy soon.. competitive pricing... comes w/ 10 foot of heat shield and 8 foot of rock guard standard.
 
on your winchline.. check out http://discountwinchline.com/ its a buddy of mine's business. he might be doing another group buy soon.. competitive pricing... comes w/ 10 foot of heat shield and 8 foot of rock guard standard.

Thanks for the link! I need to get me some synthetic...I hate those damn burrs that occur on the steel stuff....cut myself twice last time! Plus it is way safer when it fails...and saves alot of weight too.
 
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Thanks for the link! I need to get me some synthetic...I hate those damn burrs that occur on the steel stuff....cut myself twice last time!

he's a great guy, the group buy they did last time/might still be in the process of..... was

THE DEAL:
• 80ft of 3/8" Amsteel Blue Synthetic Winchline (17,600lbs) w/ 10' Abrasion Guard and Safety Hook. (Reg 235 + 15 Shipping)
• Nice Aluminum Fairlead (HIGHLY recommended for use with syn rope) (Reg 47 + 12 shipping)

Total Regular Price: $309 shipped
MSJ GroupBuy Price: $260 Shipped (no tax)

wonder if its still going on? when you looking to buy?

the group buy would be hard for you.. seeing as it has to be one check sent in.. its a MSJ thing. so... idk lol


regardless.. check w/ Billy and discount winchline for your stuff. i aint priced the line but everything else he has is competitively priced.
 
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That is one heckuva deal.

Though I have no need for a hawse fairlead, I'll be putting plastic rollers in my current one instead.

His prices are so competitive I wouldn't mind paying his regular pricing so I think I will pass on the group buy thing.

$260 something for 3/8 line with a hook plus shipping. 80'. Pretty good IMHO
 
Payday means:

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This weekends project (hopefully!):

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Lets take a vote :D

1) Put winch back together with new solenoid as it was. Cheapest option. Stuck with steel cable and bent fairlead. Fool proof design and function. Won't be retrofitting synthetic line/hawse for long while if I go this route, I hate doing things twice. It will stay this way if I do.

2) Put winch back together after purchasing synthetic winchline and poly rollers or a aluminum hawse. More expensive...about $250. Safer, lighter and more bling. No more burr cuts on my hands. All around good setup for occasional and hard winching sessions. Best option....requires more time and money than available. Means I'd have to leave winch off for a few more weeks while I round up products.

3) Forget the winch project right now and buy sliders from 4xInnovations. Fab, weld, paint, and install. About $300. Adds peace of mind for safety to my rocker panels and straight sheet metal. No winch though.

4) Windshield. I badly need one. Cracked all over. $200. Been putting it off for years.

5) Pair of Rigid D2 Dually's, tube clamps and covers. Round out the empty voids on the front bumper. More deer illumination and fog illumination for the upcoming winter months. About $450

Y'all's opinions please :bawling:

I am very close to having this truck done.

Above list is almost everything I need to do to it before I move on and start saving heavily for another vehicle of some type (think diesel tow rig, or dirt cheap fart car....or possibly a dual sport motorcycle....leaning towards diesel as it is the most versatile for all the things I do and want to do).

Once I have another vehicle.....its a pretty fair guess I will start to wheel it hard and find the limits of TTB. Meaning I will SAS it and do a major overhaul of the suspension and possibly powertrain :icon_surprised:
 
i vote option 2 and 3... simply as do 2 and custom fab your own sliders for way less than 300... i have about $0 in mine... but i have access to some metal every now and then. you could make sliders like the ones you want for less than $100 easily.

and only reason i say 2 is to help Billy out over at discountwinchlines.. you plan on buying from there? trying to see if i'll get a discount if you do! haha, i'm gonna get a recovery strap for my atv's. other than b/c i know billy, i'd say not to worry w/ the syn line yet either.. not unless you just NEED line b/c your cable is unsafe, not that its burred. seems like pointless money spent for the moment IMO.

windshield.. why is it so much? we have our chevy done last year for $125 total by a mobile glass service and came w/ lifetime leak warranty.

d2 lights are NICE.. but do you really wanna pay that much for lights right now? when you have other stuff you want/need..? can you really justify lights over sliders? unless your headlights and other lights just really SUCK!!










so my verdict. windshield--find a cheaper option; get syn line b/c you know you want it bad.. order from billy!; and fab your own sliders. why are you so set on their sliders?
 
Yummy food for thought. Just what I needed...a shot of reality.

I like their sliders cuz they are tube. I have all the access to metal I can stand, but I can't make a set for cheaper than I could buy them b/c I don't have a tube bender nor do I know anybody with one so I'd have to buy one. And all the shops around me want about that much as well and more. But I definitely need some and their sliders are beefy, tubular, and the correct length. Basically a few welds and some paint and I'd be done. Fab and go, 3 hrs max = no guess work. Plus I don't have the time with school to sit down and fab up a set. I need to do a minimal fabbing....my weekends are precious.

No I don't really need lights but....the LED's are addicting and something about the bling factor is extremely appealing...plus in the name of safety I can convince myself to buy just about anything ha.

Winchline. I need winchline. I hate my steel line. It is heavy...kinked, burred and IMHO not safe (actually it is...but steel as a pulling device is a bad idea just waiting to happen). If I go with synthetic that all goes away...

I've called 4 places and the cheapest I can get a mobile service to replace me 'shield is $196. Remember, I am on the West coast and we pay the same amount for our Lattes and for a gallon of gas. Basically it seem we get raped on everything. The final frontier pays a premium for whatever reason :icon_confused:

I wish I could sell my locker and D35 gears.....that would give me the money edge I need to get more done. :icon_bounceblue:
 
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I've never seen the appeal of synthetic winch rope.....the same cable has been on my truck for the last 7 years. Its tough, dependable and won't have a shit fit if you drag it over some rocks and abuse it or leave it uncovered in the sun. Safety is all in how you use it. Wear gloves and don't let the cable drag through your hands when spooling it, I put my boot on it and let it drag under my boot and up onto the drum.
 
I've never seen the appeal of synthetic winch rope.....the same cable has been on my truck for the last 7 years. Its tough, dependable and won't have a shit fit if you drag it over some rocks and abuse it or leave it uncovered in the sun. Safety is all in how you use it. Wear gloves and don't let the cable drag through your hands when spooling it, I put my boot on it and let it drag under my boot and up onto the drum.

For whatever reason my cable as half a dozen burrs on it now that chew up a pair of gloves everytime I use the winch. Must be cheap smittybilt garbage cuz I don't abuse it in anyway (how would I? I only ever go to the mall and back :icon_twisted: no crawler here). I see what you are saying about steel cable though...its much more durable to abrasions and general harshness where synthetic would be unhappy. I'll try your boot method. My father has had the same line for years. Not sure on the longevity of synthetic however...

Good point.


Sigh.

Maybe it is time for new sliders :icon_welder: ?
 

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