Prevent melted clutch line (hose)

[rfl]

We melted the clutch line (or hose, depending on who you ask) on the '93 4.0. The line was nearly new and properly routed, but the truck does have headers. Far as I can tell, the flange from the header to Y pipe is just too close for the stock setup.

Rather than buy a new line I though Evco could splice in a braided hose, but unfortunately they said they cannot mate to the poly line. So, new OEM line in hand but I really do not want to melt another one. I have some extreme heat pad that I was thinking I would sandwich the line in, but it seems clearance may be an issue if I do that - thinking the engine torque will cause the flange to hit the pad.

Has anyone solved this, and if so, how?

 

[FritzTKatt]

Got zip ties?

 

[Andy D]

The Rat is a stock 94 4.0 No hassles with new hose. I don't remember if I tied it off

 

[FritzTKatt]

His issue is with the headers though. There's gotta be something around there to just tie it off to. Zip ties, bailing wire, safety wire, mig wire...

 

[rfl]

So I put the new line in. I used the sticky back heat shield and sandwiched the tube - it should be okay heat wise, but something is still not right. Fast forward to right now, after 2am and the process is still bugging the heck out of me. Earlier I stated the last line was properly routed, but that was based on the stealership doing the install. Now I am thinking they screwed me.

Can someone check and tell me if this line is supposed to be routed on the outside of the frame or the inside? Mine is on the inside, but I am not thinking is should be on the outside and routed over the top (or maybe through?) the frame.

 

[rfl]

Well after some brain damage, I had my son rip the line back out. The difference really seems to be which side of the e-brake cable the clutch line runs on as it crosses over the frame. Run it in front like it was, and it twists in the wrong direction causing it to be questionable on the header. It is now between the e-brake and the floor pan which is better, but it did present a few other but less concerning issues. The line now hits the weld seam of the floor to firewall, which is pretty sharp. It is too tight to get in and flatten it with the line in so he now has fuel line (split) along the seam to protect the line. Also, the header puts the very end of the O2 sensor right at the top of the clutch line. It should not experience much torque pressure since the line and header will now rotate together, and he has the heat sock wrapped with the ubber high-temp sticky pad to protect the line from the end of the sensor. Think it will be fine now.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Should probably reach in there with some wet/dry sandpaper or a small file and get the edge off there. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't want to chance spraying brake fluid all over a screamin' hot exhaust...

 

[rfl]

Should probably reach in there with some wet/dry sandpaper or a small file and get the edge off there. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't want to chance spraying brake fluid all over a screamin' hot exhaust...

It creates some nice white smoke! Fuel line has it protected, and then it also has more heat mesh over the line. He will keep an eye on it though. If it looks iffy, then we will find a way to flatten it out.

 

[FritzTKatt]

You should really just flatten it out anyway before you have a catastrophic failure...