PlumCrazy's F-1Fiddy Build

[PlumCrazy]

Looks like $13 flat rate is cheapest.

Sent from my XT907 using Crapatalk

 

[Robert_1967]

message me your address and I'll get that out to right away.




Robert




posted using a old wooden pipe, and rosemary.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Before we get too far...I forgot that the gauge was acting funny just before my cooler line snapped off....it would say 210* as soon as I turned the key. I am thinking it was loosing ground where the line was cracked...but let me test it before we get too far

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[PlumCrazy]

So the ZF swap went off without any big snags...

Finished running HB lines and swapped the PS resi for one with the HB return barb

Marked and drilled the holes for the master cyl

Decided to trim the flange and keep the 92-97 master rather than build a bastard line to use the 85-86 master.

My brother bought me this fancy Mighty Vac for my birthday....thing is awesome for draining fluids and bleeding brakes

Pulled the C6 and bolted up the flywheel and clutch.

Balanced the ZF on a floor jack and it lined right up...actually went faster than when I do the tiny Ranger trannies.

Found out the ZF crossmember I got with the trans was from an F-SuperDuty so it was not shaped correctly. It was to far forward anout 3" and down about 2". No big deal, I trimmed it to clear the tail housing and boxed it in, then I built up the mount.

I ordered everything to build a brand new 4" OD one piece shaft with 1350 joints and a 1.5" slip yoke. I had to get a new yoke for the 8.8 so I could avoid using a 1350/1330 adapter joint.

Shifter in and rip free rubber floor in.

Looks factory....I may see if I can find an older style shift knob though.

Now it sits until I get the driveshaft built and in.

 

[Stangman92]

Looks great, what's the next project?

 

[PlumCrazy]

Plans for the truck, include swap to 8 lug using the LD F-250 8.8, then 5/6 drop, and nice shiny paint (keeping stock color)...after that I plan to just enjoy it.

 

[PlumCrazy]

All of my 1350 4" yokes and tube showed up, so now I just need to get it welded up and Ill be ready to rock.....almost.

Turns out I need to learn how to zero my calipers before I measure a trans yoke and buy $500 worth of driveshaft....

I bought all 1350 yokes and converted my 8.8 to 1350 to match my trans...then I realized my trans is a 1330.....durrr

Same width joint, but the 1350 caps are 1.188 vs 1330 cap's 1.125.....so I did some digging and found that diesel and big block applications got the 1350 yoke and the small block trannies got the 1330...Now I need to find a 1350 yoke before I can drive this turd.

Not too bummed about it, I like the idea of a bigger joint with the heavy, long, shaft anyways. I could run a conversion joint....but I hate odd joints...and I already bought 1350 joints.

I had a "tire-lanch" last night....FYI don't stack half flat 14.5 tires 7 high on a movers dolly...they will sit pretty for about 2 weeks...then topple over on your truck..

Not worried about the bed since it will be replaced before it goes in for paint.

 

[Robert_1967]

you could use that bed and make a custom trailer, get two good scrap fenders, hood, grill and so forth and make a custom box on the front to lock that looks like the front of your truck.



Robert




posted using a busted BFH and a SFM.

 

[036speed]

Loaded. Going in for surgery tomorrow.

 

[PlumCrazy]

The driveshaft back from Brad...its straight as an arrow and fits perfectly.

Got a 1350 yoke from an old ZF distributor/rebuilder that was going out of business...waited a week for it to show up and be wrong....its is about 1" too long....but it is the right spline count.

So rather than wait any longer to drive the truck.....I decided now was as good time to put the new to me lathe together and make something happen.

I also picked up this guy cheap...not sure what I will do with it just yet. Maybe a drive and air compressor, or find a way to put it on a M5OD...

 

[Robert_1967]

I would like to find one of those to fit the side of the trans in a Toyota fj40.



Robert




posted using a 55" tv and blacktooth.

 

[PlumCrazy]

ZF5 swap was successful. Been driving it for over a week now and love it. Even with the 3.08s still in the rear 1st is still sloooow. I am thinking the 3.73s I have for the new axle may be too deep. The other axle already has 3.55s in it, but the pinion bearings are toast and IDK if the gears are ok or not. I may just put pinion bearings in, set preload and run them.lol

Next on the list is replacing the noisy PS pump, it never made a noise until I drained the system and installed the hydroboost unit.....I think the oring around the resi probably should have been replaced when I put the new reservoir on...I think its drawing air around the oring and cavitating. I have an AGR Saginaw pump to go on, but its not a total bolt on, Ill have to figure out the fittings since it comes straight and uses some sort of oring...but the pump does have the Ford adapter plate on the front.

I also have decided to stay 5 lug for a bit longer...since I scored these

16x8 Alocas....brand new, forged, and Dura-Bright coated and purdy.

 

[hoosier1104]

I say slap some Dubs on it and call it good.

I am just messing with you. Very nice build by the way.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Wheels are on....world of difference. The new rubber is quiet as a can be, the steering wheel is straight, no vibes at all on the freeway, and pulling a trailer is a somewhat enjoyable experience.

They will be tight up front if I drop it 3"....Ill probably need to roll the fenders a bit.

I ran into issues with the Alcoa two piece lug nut/cover setup interfering with the center caps. Called the place a I bought them from (Southwestwheel.com) but they were no help and rude. Called Alcoa directly and had a new set of center caps on my doorstep the next day. Still wont fit without hitting the centers....

But...Sandra (yeah we are on a first name basis now) from Alcoa said the warranty is still valid as long as I use the proper lug nuts, even if they are not Alcoa brand.

Also got around to installing the AGR Saginaw pump...that was a simple task that took too long.

Got it all together only to find the reservoir was tweaked/distorted and wouldn't hold fluid. I went to the junk yard and snagged a resi off of an E150 van the next day. I brazed in a barb for the hydroboost return. The van resi is clocked different so it actually made everything fit better. the cap is pointing straight up, the barb for the box straight down, and the HB return similar to the plastic resi pump I had before.

I also had to figure out the pressure line situation....I ended up buying a -6 JIC adapter the threads directly into the pump, the cut the 90* swivel fitting off of my current pump to HB line and flared it to 37* with a -6 JIC tube nut/sleeve.

The new tires are a bit taller than the old pizza cutters, so my speedo was about 8 mph off a 70...I thought...mmmm I think I have a few speedo gears in the drawer...turns out..I have every tooth count available from Ford.lol I put a 17 tooth in and got within 3mph, looking like I need the 16 to be spot on.

When I put the 3.55s in...Ill have to bump back to the 20 or 21 tooth I imagine.

Tatted up the back window.

Picked up my brothers race car project from the paint booth yesterday. Tentatively scheduled the F150 for October. That gives me time to prep the front clip and new bed.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Not a whole lot happening here...

Heading out to the Carlisle Truck Nats next weekend and coming home with the rest of my 8 lug swap and hopefully an OEM driver fender.

I did do my first annual seat cover removal/wash and was pleasantly surprised to find that in the 30K the seat has zero signs of wear under the hideous old saddle blanket.

It was pretty gross

Shadows make it look dirty, but it was minty fresh under there

Back on

Picked up some drop shackles to get the rear down an inch or two to hold me over until I do an axle flip and drop beams with the 8 lug. I bought the 4300s without measuring.....found they are about 1.5" too long and will hit the bed, so I have cut them down to damn near 4200 length anyways.

I also pulled the cluster and painted the needles with actual reflective needle paint so they don't disappear at night.lol

I also ditched the clouded up review (common 80-97 Ford problem) with an older 70's unit without the day/night lever....I never used it anyway.