PlumCrazy's Build

[Ranger44]

That's a true D35. Trust me, they are obviously different.

Just noticed something though, am I reading that ring stamp right? Does it say 41 11? That's ring and pinion teeth numbers. 41/11= 3.727 rounding up to 3.73. I hope I'm wrong. Trying to save you major trouble.

A 4.10 chunk would have a 41 10 on it.

 

[PlumCrazy]

That's a true D35. Trust me, they are obviously different.

Just noticed something though, am I reading that ring stamp right? Does it say 41 11? That's ring and pinion teeth numbers. 41/11= 3.727 rounding up to 3.73. I hope I'm wrong. Trying to save you major trouble.

A 4.10 chunk would have a 40 10 on it.

It says 41 10, the 0 isnt stamped fully into the gear. Its hard to see in the pic. Look at the axle tag. and I know the rear axle deff had 4.10s.

-PlumCrazy

 

[Ranger44]

Whew, good.

 

[PlumCrazy]

is that a hybird dana 35??

Nope. The pic is of the top so you cant see the ribs on the bottom.

-PlumCrazy

EDIT: Proof that its a true D35

 

[Ranger44]

That it be.....

 

[PlumCrazy]

I welded it all up tonight. I still have to nip a little out of the welds around the holes to ensure that bolt seats correctly. With all the heat from welding the 1/4" plate the flange/mating surface warped a bit, so I still have to work on getting that straightened out or I will find a spare 8.8 axle and see if it will draw down on when its bolted up. I filled it up with gasoline and let sit for a few hours to see if I got it all sealed up. It seems to be good to go.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

I pulled the dash and the HVAC plenum so I could finally fix the blend door.

I used the Dorman blend door replacement kit (Part #5526-05055673). It ran me $11.99 + tax at Advance Auto Parts. This kit comes with a pattern to cut a hole that will allow you to remove the blend door with out splitting the plenum. The kit also comes with a new door (with a beefed up pivot point) and a new plate to cover the hole you cut and provide and mounting location for the upped pivot.

I just heated a razor blade with a micro torch and it cut like butter.

Here is the busted door next to the new one.

The plate will cause the motor to sit uneven since it is only under one screw hole. it would probly be okay, but I went ahead and slipped a washer under the other two mounting screws to level it out (I dont want to fatigue the shaft and have to do this agian.)

I finished my diff cover too, but I didnt get any pics of it. It wont be going on until I get the 4.10's in and buy the 60 bucks worth of fluid.

-PlumCrazy

 

[Ranger44]

Isn't diff fluid expensive?

More expensive than ATF or engine oil.



.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Well. I was planning on rebuilding my Trac-Lok when I drop the 4.10's in and put the new cover, but I was looking around a rebuild kits and they seem to run 75 bucks or more, not to mention they require Synthetic fluid which is a bit pricy. Soooo I went another route and picked this up. The 4.10's came with an open carrier, so all I need to pick up are some new bearings.

This way I can run a synblend fluid and dont have to worry about those silly clutch discs.

I finished up my cover too and shot some paint on it to match the front skid. I also picked up some longer grade 8 bolts. They use a T45 torx.

-PlumCrazy

 

[nate09]

sure looks good with those 35's. youve got some pretty good fab skills, i like the work you do.

 

[Ranger44]

Where on earth are you finding the weld in bungs?

I've been almost everywhere and nobody seems to know what i'm talking about.

They just look at me like I don't know what I'm talking about.

I just settled for an actual drainplug that I could weld in.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Where on earth are you finding the weld in bungs?

I've been almost everywhere and nobody seems to know what i'm talking about.

They just look at me like I don't know what I'm talking about.

I just settled for an actual drainplug that I could weld in.

I cut a pipe coupler in half and welded the cut end on.

-PlumCrazy

 

[exbass94]

Well. I was planning on rebuilding my Trac-Lok when I drop the 4.10's in and put the new cover, but I was looking around a rebuild kits and they seem to run 75 bucks or more, not to mention they require Synthetic fluid which is a bit pricy. Soooo I went another route and picked this up.

Trac-Locks don't require synthetic. You can run conventional, just be sure to put the additive in.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Trac-Locks don't require synthetic. You can run conventional, just be sure to put the additive in.

There is a reason Ford put that tag on there. The clutch discs will last a lot longer with full synthetic. I could run the conventional oil and the let the clutches wear out prematurely and become an open diff again, but there is a reason a put the the L/S axle in there.

-PlumCrazy

 

[WNY964x4]

There is a reason Ford put that tag on there. The clutch discs will last a lot longer with full synthetic. I could run the conventional oil and the let the clutches wear out prematurely and become an open diff again, but there is a reason a put the the L/S axle in there.

-PlumCrazy

that is weird , because both my Trac-Lok's call for 80W-90 with additive , where as the Zexel-Torsen in my Level II calls for 75W-140 Synthetic ( which is harder than hell to find )