PlumCrazy's Build

[PlumCrazy]

Made a magnet mount for the GoPro and picked up an LCD backpack for it.

I want to get an extra battery or two, but I'm pretty much set to record some video in June.

This little guy showed up too. One step closer to getting the charger on.

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[PlumCrazy]

Got a crack free SOHC pan

More spare shafts showed up today. Thanks Brinker88.

One will be going to 036Speed to get his Ranja back up in time for June.

My brother bought a powder coating setup a while back, but I finally found a junk oven to bake parts.

Tested it out on a few Honda parts.
I am going to do some parts for the new motor. Just a few pulleys and valve covers.

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[brinker88]

More spare shafts showed up today. Thanks Brinker88.

No problem. The others will be sent your way shortly

 

[036speed]

I can't wait until this thing is supercharged

 

[PlumCrazy]

I can't wait until this thing is supercharged

List is getting shorter.. Still need an oil pump, short block(will be picking up in June), timing set, 8 bolt flywheel, ARP head studs, rod bolts, FPR, full gasket kit, and then its time to build the motor and mounts and shell out some cash for tuning.

 

[PlumCrazy]

How much air charge psi are you planning on? 5-7 or so?

The 4.0 without the added torque from forced induction will easily shred the gears in the trans..I'm curious how it'll hold up.

It'll be sweet though, that's a given.

Totally missed this... I plan on 5-7 PSI, and I plan on a few trans rebuilds before I get fed up with RBV trannies and put a NP435 behind it.lol

I have already snapped an output shaft once and grenaded the reverse gears once, and I snapped a t case output way back too,lol That was with just a mild 4.0 with a cam.lol

 

[PlumCrazy]

Here is the plug on the diff that broke off flush.

Added fill/level plug. I plan on swapping the plug for a flush one with internal hex.

Driver slider that apparently I never posted up.

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[BlackBII]

Totally missed this... I plan on 5-7 PSI, and I plan on a few trans rebuilds before I get fed up with RBV trannies and put a NP435 behind it.lol

I have already snapped an output shaft once and grenaded the reverse gears once, and I snapped a t case output way back too,lol That was with just a mild 4.0 with a cam.lol

Yeah, it sounds like we have both done our fair share of damage to the mazda transmissions that come in these trucks..good luck!

 

[PlumCrazy]

Picked up a few more shafts to build up a spare set.

Did a little comparing as well.

From left to right:

Ford stub, Ford short side set, Chebby short side set, Dodge short side set, EB short side set, EB long side set.

Notice the Ford inner is 5/8" longer than the EB and 1/2" longer than the Chebby. Which is why I had to trim nearly 3/4" off to use a Ford inner in my EB with the mini spool.

Now the Chebby shaft will only need a hair trimmed off to run in the EB. Supposedly the Dodge inner is the perfect inner for upgrading an EB to 760 joints....

According to Mr. Ns Dana Bible the Dodge inner should only be 1/8" longer than an EB, but it is actually an 1" shorter as shown in my pic. I only paid a few bucks for the Dodge set and the outer is still usable, so Im not out anything.

All the stubs are the same..except for the snap ring locations and the smaller 260 joint in the EB. The Chebby groove is about 1/2" back where as the Fords are only 1/8" or so. Now the Dodge on the other hand has provisions for both.

I have never bothered running the snap rings anyways. The hubs and stubs I have came with factory slugs and the grooves are set further back like a Chevy for some reason not allowing me put snaps on.

The Ford driver side set will be passed on to Brad (036speed) to get his Ranger back on the trail.

I also played around with an old Expo rear shaft. I want to build up a heavy duty rear shaft with a smaller OD and 1310 joints to replace my 3.5" thin walled 1330 shaft.

The 1310 joint is rated to 1650ft-lb vs the 1800 that the 1330 is rated for.
1310 and 1330 have same diameter caps, just a different width. The 1310 has an operating angle of 30 vs the 20 of the 1330.

I don't think the 150 ft-lb difference will cause an issue. I like the 1310 for a few reasons...A my front and rear shaft will use common joints B higher operating angle C 1310 yokes are easy to find for 2.5 OD tube. The smaller tube will clear my tank and traction bar cross member better.

I chopped the expo shaft apart and threw it on the lathe to cut the welds and salvage the yokes. I just need to get my tooob and weld it up now. I still need to cut the slip yoke off my current spare shaft, but I dont want to commit to that until I have everything to build up the replacement...

I have been researching so many dimensions, yokes, joints, and toob that I am seeing spicer part #s in my sleep.lol The shop looks like a drive shaft ware house.lol I have a gazillion flanges, slips, yokes and joints laying out trying to get everything pieced together.lol
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[kris97ranger]

Speaking of drive shafts how much did you have to shorten your rear shaft for the doubler?

 

[PlumCrazy]

Speaking of drive shafts how much did you have to shorten your rear shaft for the doubler?

I think I knocked out 8" exact. If my math is correct...a stock 98+ Reg cab long bed shaft should be a direct bolt in.

Its 57" flange to flange installed.

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[PlumCrazy]

Got the cylinder pin finished up and the 7/8 rod end on.
I took a 7/8" 3 point hitch Ag Stud and turned down the top half to 3/4.

All my other steering ends are getting a little sloppy, so I will need to swap them out before long. They lasted over a year (25-30k) so Im okay with that.

Weather was nice so I snapped a few photographs.

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[036speed]

Very nice. Where are the gopro pics? Glad you have a working one now.

My sister has mine. She wants to video her dogs her a kids trailer thing behind a bicycle.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I didn't upload them to my photobucket when I had the GoPro SD card in my phone....Ill get them on here before long.lol

I need to play with different mounting spots for recording video.

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[PlumCrazy]

Here ya go.

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