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PlumCrazy's Build


I am going to keep the Saginaw as is and see where it gets me. The hydrobooster is going to be the limiting factor on flow. Pressure wise I am already where I want to be around 1100psi

That is why I want the cylinder removable. I dont mind slow steering on the trail, but i want to have fast response on the street.

There is company that reworks hydroboost units to allow higher flows for hydro steering applications, but for 400-500 bucks I'll try my luck with my $35 setup.lol

-PlumCrazy
 
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Didn't know you had the Saginaw already. Have you thought about modifying the pump for more flow?

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
 
I have had the Saginaw for a few years now.lol. I have even rebuilt it once since they couldn't replace it under warranty.

Opening up the orifice in the pump won't help me unfortunately. The hydrobooster can only pass so much flow before it builds the pressure up in in the line from the pump. Think of the HB being a orifice itself, so even if the pump is capable of more flow the pressure drop across the the HB will be to much and just blow over the relief if you try to push too much flow across it. The HB isn't rated to take more 1200 psi or so long term, so I cant really bump up the relief setting either to compensate for the pressure drop.

-PlumCrazy
 
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O, so what advantage does the hydroboost have then?
 
More clamping force with less pedal effort.

When I upgraded to larger calipers and master the pedal got a bit stiff with the vacuum booster. Now I have a shorter stopping distance and better performing brakes than Ranger with stock size wheels and tires.

Still not enough brake power to stall out the truck doing a brake stand in 2wd low low.lol

-PlumCrazy
 
Been a while since I updated this.
Hydro assist is still under construction.

Some cardboard fab...
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Then cut out of 1/4". Plan is to tack them on, the pull the cover, full bead them, add a 2" wide strip to protect ring gear, then box in the tabs over that.
IMG_20121214_164212.jpg

IMG_20121214_164239.jpg

IMG_20121214_164255.jpg

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I also finally got around to wiring up my 03 tails correctly.(after 2 years). Since my truck originally had a 2 bulb setup (separate turn signal) and I swapped to a one bulb setup where the brake and turn share a filament I had to do some rewiring. I was to lazy to do it right originally, so I just cut a second hole in the housing to accept the turn signal socket. But the problem was that the brake light basically over powered the turn signal and canceled it out.

Heres a diagram of what I did. Basically I removed the red portions and connected the turn/brake wires to my trailer adapter. But then the lights would blink fast when I hit the brakes because there was no load on the original turn signal wires. So I added some 8 Ohm resistors. Now everything functions like it should.
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-PlumCrazy
 
Nice. You are going to be able to move rocks with your steering like my buddy does with his 91 GMC. The red and grey one I am sure you have seen.
 
I have seened it. I dont want I super strong cylinder, that will just end up destroying other things like my inner Cs or balljoints.lol

-PlumCrazy
 
Im tossing up the idea of holding off on the assist and saving for some Reid Racing knuckles. That way I can run highsteer, take the draglink bind out at full droop, have more solid mounting points for my cylinder, and keep my current brake/spindle setup.

-PlumCrazy
 
Im tossing up the idea of holding off on the assist and saving for some Reid Racing knuckles. That way I can run highsteer, take the draglink bind out at full droop, have more solid mounting points for my cylinder, and keep my current brake/spindle setup.

-PlumCrazy

I approve

And yes, my buddy blew a lockout hub and cracked a D60 knuckle after he added that hydro assist lol
 
Is the diff cover going to be able to handle the stress that is going to be put on it ???

Last I knew, those where made from light weight metal. or is yours a after market that is thicker metal??



Robert



sent with a space ship and a "LaCar".
 
Stock Dana covers are 3/16" thick. I will box it in and gusset it to spread the load. It should be just fine.

If it was the pop can metal like the 8.8 and 7.5 came with I would not try it.lol

-PlumCrazy
 
Well, I have a set of High steer knuckles if you're interested.
 
Im too attached to my Ford brakes.lol.

For the cost of Chevy flat tops and machining, and buying everything for Chevy brakes I might as well buy the Reid knuckles and keep my brakes. Not to mention they are that cool orange.lol

-PlumCrazy
 

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