Perhaps a slightly different 351 swap

[you there]

Edited title: Just another 5.0

I'm hoping to keep this relatively up to date as I get this project bolted together.

Starting point:

Sorry for the odd size, taken with an iPhone. As you can see, the 2.9 is already out of the truck waiting to be sold. In it's place will be going a 90-ish 351W out of a F350 box van. I do plan on keeping the factory injection set-up. I don't think I've seen a swap of this sort done yet, at least not with a 351W. Backing up the 351 will be a hydraulic-only AOD with a mild shift kit. Couldn't find any torque specs on the transfer case but we'll see how long it'll last behind a 351W. I think for the most part I should be ok as I don't plan on any more lift, tire size or any unnecessary four wheeling. Bought it with a 3" body lift, so at least I won't have to worry about that part. Far as I can tell it does still have the D28/7.5 so I'm passively pursuing a parts Explorer for the axles out of it.

 

[jhammel85]

Looking forward to seeing it done. I think it sounds pretty nice. Will the weight of the engine be an issue for the front end at all?

 

[you there]

I think power and torque will prove to be more of an issue than weight. I'll just have to keep my eyes on bearings, balljoints and tierods until I can get a D35/8.8 setup under it.

 

[huggyb1972]

Now would be a good time to convert it to mass air and make that 5.8 work real good.

 

[you there]

Definitely on the list but I don't know when I'll get to it. Kinda want this done ASAP. I'll see how it looks when we get to the fun part of actually putting the engine in and if it's a short detour then I'll do it during the install. Casually reading in/on/about it now.

Edit: still need to pull the 351 out of the donor vehicle.

 

[THE-BEST-NEVER-REST]

I too am interested in this same swap. I have a 1988 Extended cab 4x4 that I would like to do the same swap on. As it cools off more every day here in the desert I plan to work to remove the dead 2.9 engine. Hopefully over the winter I can install a 351W. As I understand it is nearly impossible to install the 351 without a body lift. I plan to do that soon but am not sure to go with the 2" or the 3". I have had trucks before with body lifts and there are always things that arise from them. If I go with a 2" will that be enough? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bobbywalter]

i would use the setup off of a 96 van for injection that has sefi mass air.


i have installed these with manifolds and log headers and cobra r headers. even with a 3 in b/l the intake is pretty monsterous in a 4x4 chassis. a sas setup in a 2wd chassis is a bit easier to deal with.

bc broncos has an adapter to use the car intake which can really make things easier if you dont want a body lift, but you will have to cut the frame rails a bit to use the r type headers and go to an aerostar type or custom steering shaft setup....

easier yet is to run a over rail box and build a bad ass steering setup which will really aide in engine and exaust placement/fit









oh, i have an 88 ext cab and a few 351 windsors for circle track cars have been broken-in while temporarily installed in my chassis....one was even destroyed in a over rev mishap and my stock aod converter.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by you there
I think power and torque will prove to be more of an issue than weight. I'll just have to keep my eyes on bearings, balljoints and tierods until I can get a D35/8.8 setup under it.


with a stock engine, power/torque/weight is a non issue with properly done frame mods

 

[THE-BEST-NEVER-REST]

i would use the setup off of a 96 van for injection that has sefi mass air.

Wouldn't you then be limited to using a E4OD if you wanted to have an automatic tranny? They are big, heavy, expensive and not all that strong. I kinda want to stay away from them because of this.



i have installed these with manifolds and log headers and cobra r headers. even with a 3 in b/l the intake is pretty monsterous in a 4x4 chassis. a sas setup in a 2wd chassis is a bit easier to deal with.

Do you think a 2" body lift would work though?



bc broncos has an adapter to use the car intake which can really make things easier if you dont want a body lift, but you will have to cut the frame rails a bit to use the r type headers and go to an aerostar type or custom steering shaft setup....

Are you saying if I ran a Cobra or GT40 intake or any of the typical car aftermarket uppers I could do it without the body lift?



easier yet is to run a over rail box and build a bad ass steering setup which will really aide in engine and exaust placement/fit

What has been your source (vehicle make/model) for an over the rail box?




Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[bobbywalter]

e40d not that strong?

if you want something else the obdII can be easily tuned to suit. the 4r70w or some aod variant would be my first choice as well....up to you.




2 in body lift and heater box mods can get it done in many cases.


an after market 351 car style intake is often hard to get cheap but they are out there. bc bronco adapter works fine for easy to get parts if your staying stockish for now...just an option. just puts oem car to truck 351.....make sure to get an ho intake though...they are bigger in the throat.


78/79 f150 4x4 box with a 97-03 f150 spacer with its spreaders cut to fit works.......or adapt a toyota or saginaw outside rail box. like a 80's 2wd c truck

 

[you there]

with a stock engine, power/torque/weight is a non issue with properly done frame mods

Been doing a lot of reading between here and RPS and I don't recall coming across anyone mentioning any frame mods (maybe not enough reading?). With a stock 5.8, you think it's necessary?

 

[bobbywalter]

in this case, the mods referenced are removal of material from the rails or deformation of the frame rails to provide clearance for various issues.

i use a few different methods depending on goals, actual powertrain, 4x4/4x2..straight axle or ttb/tib....exaust header or manifold combination etc.etc.

the mods to clear a 351 with van/car manifold were a bit short of what i needed to put the 6.5 diesel in my chassis. not much but i was boxing(bolt on boxing) the front section anyway because the diesel weighs a bit more and i was going outside the rail for steering so it was a non issue tomake a bit of room..

i went with mid and long tube headers initially in 95 as was common back in the early to mid 90's and really took allot more then i wanted to out of my framerails... eventually i busted them jumping and tough trucking etc and had to beef the rails up a bit....had i taken the time to drill or radius the cuts things would have been better...where i originally used to just cut and remove i often just fold over the rail when possible these days.


this is a bad idea for clearance

this had to be done with my original "swap kit headers" which were junk in every sense ofthe word..not really impressed with what advanced adapters had at that time period...but it was what it was...no internet back then i dont have pics of the long tubes just these oem 351 cobra r headers...should give you an idea anyway

hard to tell here but this is mostly for when a 351 is in there...normally with a 302 block it sits just below the rail there.

steering i prefer the ujoints like these modded aerostar shafts...

i now use this type of box, but i have had a saginaw on this particular chassis as well from a 2wd gm truck...this wasdone to allow that fat bastard radiator from the donor to be fitted cause i was too cheap to buy a new radiator

if you look at the frame closely you can see that it is boxed and assembled with 1/2 in bolts. this would not be necessary for a street truck...but mine tends to get abused on occasion.

heres a pic when the saginaw box was in place before the big hack for the radiator..

same chassis....various power-train suspension and steering configurations all requiring their own unique modifications. is it the right way? no...that will never work for everybody....but it works..

there are definitely wrong ways....right angle unsupported cuts are a big no no. light removal with careful radius considerations at corners really really go a long way towards keeping these things together. i need to get some chassis pics of the folding i refer too so its easy to understand. folding instead of removing works better in my experience.

 

[you there]

Ah, understood. Thank you for clarifying.

Well in my case the swap is being done simply because I can and want to. No other reason, really. I don't plan on four wheeling with it, no heavy play or work, creating a power house or largely lifting it (just enough for 31s or 32s, 33s at the most). Just something different for these parts. I am planning on swapping out the lower intake with something a little better and using a GT40 or Edelbrock upper to see if I can get that manifold height down. I really don't like body lifts. Headers would be nice but I'm not concerned with them especially give the tight quarters they would be contained in. I'm more than willing to sacrifice a few horses for a ton more convenience in this project.

 

[you there]

Well after some deliberation, consideration, debating and just general thinking, I've abandoned the 351 EFI route and have decided to go with good ole fashioned carbureation. Instead will be a 302 out of a '69 Mustang. It'll be a little easier/better fit and with this being my first swap, abundant help and information should I get stuck along the way. Engine tear down has already commenced so I'll have some pictures up shortly.

 

[bobbywalter]

with your goals thats a cake deal

 

[you there]

Whoops. Kind of let this one go to the wayside....Another development. The 69 302 has been dropped in favor for a '97 302 GT40P engine.

Donor vehicle:

Engine in question:

Engine out:

I highly suggest buying a Ford EFI lift plate if anyone pulls one. Made lifting it so much easier.

Intake off:

Not bad for over 200k.

TFS valve spring kit:

Original plan for this one was the slap a camshaft in it and call it good but on further inspection the cam bearings were showing wear so I ended up pulling apart the whole engine for new rings/bearings. More pictures to come.