New rotor is slightly wobbly

[Chapap]

I would think about a warranty exchange on the rotor(s) or replacing them if they refuse to warranty them. Too much warping of the rotor can cause accelerated pad wear even if there isn’t a pedal pulsing sensation.

Already have one on the way. The Rock Auto warranty replacement seems to just assume you’re telling the truth. Just a few questions then they start replacement. I do pay half the shipping on the new one tho.

Any thoughts on brands? Are they all about the same for regular driving? I got the cheapest Raybestos at $32. There was a cheaper Bendix, but I paid a couple bucks more for the name.

Edit: that’s what’s supposed to happen. I ordered a new one, and will get a refund when I send the old one back. I’ve returned a couple things to RA with no problem so it ought to go smoothly.

 

[sgtsandman]

I haven’t had a RWD Ranger for a good long while. So, I have no idea what is good and what isn’t anymore. As a default, I prefer Motorcraft rotors. They seem to hold up better than aftermarket for my 2011 but the brakes on it are significantly different than a RWD Ranger.

 

[Dirt Squirt]

I prefer Powerstop rotors. Best products I have used in 45 years. I used to do brakes for a living when I was but a youngster at 17, and was correctly taught not to trust new parts. We routinely placed new drums and rotors on the lathe to check run out and lo and behold 70% of them were out of spec. out of the box and required a light turning to straighten them out. I never had a come back on a brake job.

 

[Curious Hound]

I prefer Powerstop rotors. Best products I have used in 45 years. I used to do brakes for a living when I was but a youngster at 17, and was correctly taught not to trust new parts. We routinely placed new drums and rotors on the lathe to check run out and lo and behold 70% of them were out of spec. out of the box and required a light turning to straighten them out. I never had a come back on a brake job.

Nice to hear. I just ordered Powerstop pads and rotors for my fun50.

 

[Chapap]

replaced the rotor and got some USA Timken bearings. Accidentally ordered 4wd bearings the first go round and had to get chi-comm bearings from orileys. Really don’t think over-torquing lug nuts to the point of damage is possible with the tire iron. I was playing with the torque wrench and 100 ftlbs is somewhat of a feat to get to.

for the bearing, I found to tighten to 17-25 ftlbs, loosen and tighten to 18-20 inlb. I didn’t have a 3/8” socket that would fit the nut, so I stuck an adjustable wrench on the tq wrench and practiced getting the feel for 20 ftlbs. 20 inlbs barely registered on my the click tq wrench. I’m sure guesstimating would have done fine, but I hung a 2.5# workout plate 8” from the nut to get the right torque.

All that to basically say that I think it was a bad rotor.

 

[Curious Hound]

I found to tighten to 17-25 ftlbs, loo

Where did you get that number? It sounds light.

For my F150, (RWD model) the procedure I found called for 47ft-lbs while turning the rotor. I believe that is less than I use on my 4x4 Ranger for seating the bearing races. And I found on the F150, I may have play in the bearings after driving it a bit. I’m going to redo the whole procedure tomorrow morning. The 17-25 in-lbs for final torque sounds good.

 

[Chapap]

Where did you get that number? It sounds light.

I found only two mentions of the numbers. One was 20 ftlb on another ranger forum, and the 17-25 ftlb was on one of those paid q/a sites I think.

 

[Curious Hound]

I found only two mentions of the numbers. One was 20 ftlb on another ranger forum, and the 17-25 ftlb was on one of those paid q/a sites I think.

Not trying to dispute it. But double check it after driving a few days. If you have play or develop vibrations, it could be the bearings aren’t seated fully.

 

[Chapap]

Not trying to dispute it. But double check it after driving a few days. If you have play or develop vibrations, it could be the bearings aren’t seated fully.

Please do dispute it. I’m not really happy with those numbers. They don’t seem to be definitive enough. Might have to get a repair manual. Surely they’re listed in there.

Edit: Ah yes, this is where I found that number.

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