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Passenger side front wheel suddenly smoking and stinky.


I can only tolerate the 4.0 OHV. That's what I got.
 
As someone who has an ASE in brakes, I echo what everyone else has said. Something is seized, either slide pins (quite common) or the piston itself (slightly less common). Another thing that can cause it is a kinked brake hose, as pressure can get into the caliper but not out. I’ve seen it happen when someone takes the caliper off, and it gets rotated before being put back on, twisting and eventually kinking the hose.
 
I had a 4.0, but a jeep 4.0. It was on my cherokee
 
I didnt pull the wheels yet but did look around a bit underneath. I though the pin might have fallen out because I did catch sticking way out once....but all the pins were in, they did look pretty cruddy. I dont recall if I greased em up last time, might have just slapped em together.

Anyways I'll probably just replace calipers/lines/rotors etc as needed...both calipers for sure.

Gotta do the fuel pump too, and clean up some wiring....I should start clearing the laundry list a bit...my poor ranger.

Pads come with new pins right?
 
Pads come with new pins right?
No, unfortunately. You'll have to buy a slide pin kit separately, comes with the pins and boots as well.

If you do replace the calipers, make sure they come with new pins, not all of them do and you may have to buy them separately.
 
Those things are bulletproof. Probably literally as well.

a buddy ran his 4.0 jeep out of water, way down the beach from where we live. he would drive it till it shut off, than wait for it to cool, drive it till it shut off, wait till it cooled, till he got home. it took a very long time but he made it home. there is no cell service or even park rangers that go way down padre island so if you break down, it could be a bad time
 
Update: The front wheels spin freely, but I havent tried is after driving a while to test the brake booster self activating.

I think my wheel bearings are blown out because there was a lot of wheel play.

Is the spindle bearing the same thing as inner wheel bearing?

I have outer bearings and seals, need inners.
 
No. Spindle bearing is completely different. For a 93 TTB, inner and outer front wheel bearings are the same.

It is possible that your wheel bearing nuts came loose and are allowing play in the bearings. Still might require replacement. Disassembly, clean and inspect at a minimum.
 
Whatever is the problem fix it fast. Wheel bearings often give you plenty of warning, but they can sieze.
 
No. Spindle bearing is completely different. For a 93 TTB, inner and outer front wheel bearings are the same.

It is possible that your wheel bearing nuts came loose and are allowing play in the bearings. Still might require replacement. Disassembly, clean and inspect at a minimum.
I noticed on generic diagrams there is an inner wheel bearing and another bearing further inner from that... I only wonder because my axle wiggles too. Or maybe the diagram is fuzzy idk anymore these days...
 
Whatever is the problem fix it fast. Wheel bearings often give you plenty of warning, but they can sieze.
Its not a daily driver, she will sit until its fixed....maybe test drives for a drive thru burger in between throwing parts, labor, tools and bloody knuckles at it....maybe some curse words too.

An yea I ignored one once and lost a wheel....learned that lesson.
 
Got my hands on AC delco Outer bearing and seals....Timken inner bearings and seals....

Originals are stock under 90k original miles. She is a '93 I'm dealing w/ nearing 100k miles problems 30 years later...when parts are lower quality and harder to find.

My plan of attack is slow and observational. Gonna see what the originals are like once in there...if totally toast will replace, otherwise clean and pack....I heard oem bearings are the best.
 
If your hoses are collapsed they act like a check valve, only allowing fluid one way.
However, they will slowly bleed pressure back, so after the sit for a while they let off.

With the truck jacked up, pump the brakes a few times real good, then see if the wheel still spins free.
 
If your hoses are collapsed they act like a check valve, only allowing fluid one way.
However, they will slowly bleed pressure back, so after the sit for a while they let off.

With the truck jacked up, pump the brakes a few times real good, then see if the wheel still spins free.
You answered my question of how to check without having to drive it. Do I do this with the truck running for vacuum?

so if hose collapses, booster is bad right?
 

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