Parts list to restore a TTB front end?

[Eddo Rogue]

Wasn't sure where to post this, because it involves steering, brakes, suspension etc...Although I don't help, just parts list suggestions. Lets assume its all trashed.

I am done messing around, and want to fix everything wrong with the front end, and maybe even some of the engineering flaws. Its gotten really bad. Like not sure where to start, just gonna do it all.

I am envisioning what I will need to replace starting with the middle and working my way out. There is some obvious stuff, but gets a little confusing towards the wheels where all the small parts go.

I've already replaced shocks/brakes.

anyways here is the sort of list so far....Lets throw some parts!

-Axle pivot bushings (polyurethane?)
-centerlink/drag link...new pitman arm?
-tie rods for sure
-ball joints
-wheel bearings
-reman or new steering box.
-+1 power steering pump.

Things I am not sure of:
-radius arm bushings? or should I get longer ones? I only have a leveling kit for lift.
-steering knuckle u joints?
- any bearings/seals besides just the inner and outer wheel bearings?
-any other steering parts I should replace?
-axle u joints?
-rebuild the hubs? Surprisingly they still work.

Is there anything I shouldn't or probably won't need to touch?

*I a plan to die grind the extra meat where steering binds in 4wd, anything else I should do while I have the welder and grinder out? Got plenty of flat bar and tubing to box in, gusset, reinforce etc...
This is a 90k original mile truck that is mostly babied and once in awhile abused. I just want it to steer and handle decent on the street (and trail).

Please do not suggest a SAS swap unless you have one to donate lol.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Balljoints
Wheel bearings/axle seals
Spindle bearing/seal kit
Axle u-joints for sure, 760's
Pivot bushings. Poly bushings were kind of a pain, not sure I would use them over normal ones next time.
I also replaced all three differential seals but they are kind of a PITA, you have to pull the case off the beam.
Radius arm bushings unless yours are fairly new

Check the u-joints over on your front driveshaft too, it will need shortened IIRC.

C clip eliminator (I did the external style) and full circle clips for the ujoints are good mods too.

Check this out for info:

Axle Tech - The Ranger Station

DISCLAIMER: Activities and vehicle modifications appearing or described at The Ranger Station and it’s pages may be potentially dangerous. We do not endorse any such activity for others or recommend it to any particular person – we simply describe … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[scotts90ranger]

85, his '93 has a D35, sounds like he's just doing maintenance not converting to anything...

Tie rod ends, ball joints and radius arm bushings would probably do it some good favors, all give them some bad manners and the radius arm bushings make some clunks when braking... while in there wiggle the 3 axle shaft U joints to see if they're tight, if in doubt use the good Spicer joints, if changing the middle one (it's a pain in the rig if the C clip hasn't been eliminated) grind out the ends of the shaft to allow for more clearance, but if you are stock probably not needed... There's no rebuilding of the hubs, just make sure there's no grease in them. If you plan on more suspension travel widen the window in the passenger side beam for the axle shaft, make it as tall as you can get a 4.5" angle grinder in a plunge cut but round the corners...

You shouldn't have to go too crazy, it's not an IFS Chevy...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

IMHO, I’d do extended front arms and a little gusset work while in there. Either buy extended arms or make your own, frees up the suspension to travel better. Both sets I’ve built so far I used Ballistic Fab ballistic joints and have been happy. Only one set has been Road tested so far and it’s done a bit of trail duty and I’ve been rather happy with it on my choptop. Only thing I haven’t been happy with is the choptop’s preference for eating motors.

 

[4x4junkie]

Having just a leveling lift and 31x10.50 tires (equivalent to stock size on some models), has me thinking things like extended arms, grinding out u-joints, and gusseting of stuff might not be necessary... Are there bigger plans in the works?


As for the rest, you seem to have it pretty well covered. Things like tie rods, TREs and ball joints you can tell pretty easy whether they're good or not (the studs should still have some tightness, not be loose or floppy). A pitman arm is not a wear item, it shouldn't need replacing unless it got damaged somehow. Also check your steering rag joint(s) and steering column slip joint.

If the axle u-joints appear original, I'd replace them regardless. The grease in them only lasts so long, and depending on their history might even already be dried up (×2 on the Spicer 5-760X).

The urethane pivot bushings I used I thought were a breeze to install. Unfortunately I don't remember what pt# they were (though I think they were Energy brand). I recall there are two kinds, ones having a metal shell, and ones without. The ones I used did not have a metal shell, you simply burned out any remnants of the old rubber bushing from the existing shell and then the new urethane bushings simply slid into place (which means the existing shell would still have to be in good condition).

The lockout hubs can be disassembled, inspected, cleaned, and (very lightly) regreased. But as said, no rebuild kits are available.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Having just a leveling lift and 31x10.50 tires (equivalent to stock size on some models), has me thinking things like extended arms, grinding out u-joints, and gusseting of stuff might not be necessary... Are there bigger plans in the works?


As for the rest, you seem to have it pretty well covered. Things like tie rods, TREs and ball joints you can tell pretty easy whether they're good or not (the studs should still have some tightness, not be loose or floppy). A pitman arm is not a wear item, it shouldn't need replacing unless it got damaged somehow. Also check your steering rag joint(s) and steering column slip joint.

If the axle u-joints appear original, I'd replace them regardless. The grease in them only lasts so long, and depending on their history might even already be dried up (×2 on the Spicer 5-760X).

The urethane pivot bushings I used I thought were a breeze to install. Unfortunately I don't remember what pt# they were (though I think they were Energy brand). I recall there are two kinds, ones having a metal shell, and ones without. The ones I used did not have a metal shell, you simply burned out any remnants of the old rubber bushing from the existing shell and then the new urethane bushings simply slid into place (which means the existing shell would still have to be in good condition).

The lockout hubs can be disassembled, inspected, cleaned, and (very lightly) regreased. But as said, no rebuild kits are available.

I will probably keep it like this for awhile. I just mentioned the grinding because I can feel the front end bind when I do my 3 point turn at the top of the fire road. Its a short run I do weekly to keep the 4wd used and in working order.

I am on the fence about rubber vs poly...will probably go poly.

Pivot bushing I know is bad, can feel and hear it over every bump.

I feel the same about the u joints,they're probably worn from age alone.

But yea I am trying not to hack into this truck, keep the oem og look going.
I already replaced the rag joint.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

85, his '93 has a D35, sounds like he's just doing maintenance not converting to anything...

Tie rod ends, ball joints and radius arm bushings would probably do it some good favors, all give them some bad manners and the radius arm bushings make some clunks when braking... while in there wiggle the 3 axle shaft U joints to see if they're tight, if in doubt use the good Spicer joints, if changing the middle one (it's a pain in the rig if the C clip hasn't been eliminated) grind out the ends of the shaft to allow for more clearance, but if you are stock probably not needed... There's no rebuilding of the hubs, just make sure there's no grease in them. If you plan on more suspension travel widen the window in the passenger side beam for the axle shaft, make it as tall as you can get a 4.5" angle grinder in a plunge cut but round the corners...

You shouldn't have to go too crazy, it's not an IFS Chevy...

Yes many bad manners and clunks....and so many parts involved.This is why I got fed up and started this thread...

Just trying to find the balance between "might as well while its apart" and "don't fix what ain't broke".

Not sure if I would go c-clip eliminator, maybe later down the road now that I know it exists.

I can feel (and hear) the front end bind when steering tight in 4wd.

Yes lol I would rather push a Ford TTB than drive a Chevy IFS.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

IMHO, I’d do extended front arms and a little gusset work while in there. Either buy extended arms or make your own, frees up the suspension to travel better. Both sets I’ve built so far I used Ballistic Fab ballistic joints and have been happy. Only one set has been Road tested so far and it’s done a bit of trail duty and I’ve been rather happy with it on my choptop. Only thing I haven’t been happy with is the choptop’s preference for eating motors.

Even with 0-2" lift? Do they sell a DIY weld up kit?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you go deep enough to pull the diff housing I would for sure do the eliminator. It's a long ways to go just to do it though.

It is a bugger to get the diff housing off the beam on a stock truck.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

If you go deep enough to pull the diff housing I would for sure do the eliminator. It's a long ways to go just to do it though.

It is a bugger to get the diff housing off the beam on a stock truck.

OK this would fall in the might as while its apart category eh?
My only fear is breaking or causing something to break by trying to improve something that wasn't broken.

I will look into it, seems simple enough. I've done em before on like the gm 10 bolt.

This will be a truck sitting on jackstands for awhile kind of job, so I will probably go deep.

What's the bugger? Is there stuff in the way, or is it just heavy and awkward? Or is it a lot of hammering/picking/poking/prying to get stuff loose/apart? Hopefully not all of the above....

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

With a stock suspension you about have to remove the beam to get the diff out far enough to get the clip off.

You can get it apart in like a jy setting if you put you heart in it... no way you could get it back together with silicone involved imo. I never actually fully removed the housing with the beam mounted in the truck, I was just wanting the stub shaft for a spare.

But if you are doing pivot bushings and replacing seals... you will be there anyway.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you are doing a 3 point turn in 4 wheel drive on a hard surface (even gravel would be better, something has to slip...), it has every reason to be binding up, there is nothing wrong if it is binding in that situation

The spring in the slip boot on the passenger side shaft is the easiest way to eliminate the C clip, but yeah, if you have no reason to get in there it's too much work for that...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Even with 0-2" lift? Do they sell a DIY weld up kit?

Where I decided it was a good idea even for a 2” lift was when I tried to put 2” coils in my 88. I had to stand on the hub and pull against the fender to force the front end down enough to accept the 2” coil at full extension. I promptly marked the factory arms for a cut to slot a 2” piece of square tube and whacked it off on both sides.

They don’t sell a DIY weld up kit exactly. On the choptop I just used the joints and an adapter for 2” square tube 1/4” wall and made my own frame mounts out of 1/4” plate and angle iron. Really went beefy with it. On the 88 I’m not done with them, but I bought the 2” square tube adapters, joints, and mounts for the joints. I haven’t finished them yet, but I modded the mounts to work. I’ll have to get a couple pictures.

 

[SenorNoob]

If you take differential housing off the beam, I'd suggest drilling a small drain hole into the lowest bolt that holds it to the beam.
Like this:

That way you can drain it later without having to get creative. (Yes it's slow and doesn't really work in cold weather.)

 

[Eddo Rogue]

If you are doing a 3 point turn in 4 wheel drive on a hard surface (even gravel would be better, something has to slip...), it has every reason to be binding up, there is nothing wrong if it is binding in that situation

The spring in the slip boot on the passenger side shaft is the easiest way to eliminate the C clip, but yeah, if you have no reason to get in there it's too much work for that...

Nope, its on a slippery dirt surface that it binds, and not much, but I can feel it. It is a short little dirt/sand fire road behind my property.
Not sure if I will end up that deep...The pivot bushings are getting swapped for sure though.
I'm more concerned about worn parts affecting road manners.
Front end sounds (and feels) like a car accident in a metal shop when hitting bumps, and I have a good 45 degrees of steering wheel slop each direction.