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Paint worthy of a golf cart?


Chapap

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jul 31, 2021
Messages
1,068
City
NW Florida
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Drop
1.5” till I get these springs replaced
Tire Size
225-70-R14
In this case, "worthy" is referring to the upper limit of quality, not lower. I have zero painting equipment including the compressor. I want to do this on the cheap, and that may very well mean not touching it is the best option. I'm thinking that regular ole spray paint would look a bit meh. Not sure why, it just seems like you can tell when it's just been sprayed. Maybe a 2-part clear coat rattle can would make it look better. The egg shell would still be there though. Can you wet sand by hand?
 
Orange peel can mostly be defeated by wetsanding, if your up for getting carpel tunnel.
 
Tractor paint
 
when i worked at a golf cart shop, we would paint using spray paint. just take the time to prep and make sure you aren't at extreme temp upper or lowers and it will be fine
 
back in my day, Krylon was the "go-to" for premium spray paint. It seems that Rustoleum is all I ever see anymore.
 
back in my day, Krylon was the "go-to" for premium spray paint. It seems that Rustoleum is all I ever see anymore.
Same, I've really never seen much of Krylon. It's almost exclusively Rustoleum I see, but for some reason I tend to use "Krylon" as a synonym for spray paint.
 
These days, the best stuff is 2K "epoxy." 2K seems to lay down very good. The primer is just a regular rattle can, but the paint and the clear coat is a two part time sensitive product which releases a catalyst. Basically it's the same stuff that comes on factory finished cars and golf carts too.

These are true 2 part paints and clear coats which come with a red button on the cap. that button is placed on the bottom of the can and depressed in order to release the catalyst.

The photo shows the primer and the clear coat. I did not have any base coat handy.

20230905_094519.jpg


The next photo shows the bottom of the clear coat can. It will release a catalyst when the red button is attached. This is a time sensitive product. It does not air dry. Both Eastwood and NAPA sell true 2K paints. I dunno. Maybe there are others. This is good stuff. It will last a very long time. You will still need to fine sand, but less.

20230905_094535_007.jpg
 
Something like these? When you say a little extra solvent, you mean for a sprayer right? I can't imagine a brush giving a smooth finish.
paint.png
 
I used TSC tractor paint on my old Ranger, and was very happy with the results.

I think that tractor or implement paint would work fine on a golf cart, and would probably be the most "bang for the buck" for getting a good long-lasting paint job on one.
 
Something like these? When you say a little extra solvent, you mean for a sprayer right? I can't imagine a brush giving a smooth finish.
View attachment 98106
Yes. Use a sprayer, a cup gun. I would advise against Rustoleum products. They provide good bottom-of-the-line protection. They work well when used together but not so much with other paint systems. So if you are painting over old paint, use a better brand. You will get better coverage and a longer life.
 
Yes. Use a sprayer, a cup gun. I would advise against Rustoleum products. They provide good bottom-of-the-line protection. They work well when used together but not so much with other paint systems. So if you are painting over old paint, use a better brand. You will get better coverage and a longer life.
I really want to stick with rattle cans. I have no sprayer or compressor and don't particularly want to get one just for this project.

I'm probably going to go with Krylon since they're owned by Sherwin Williams. I'd like a flake or pearl look, but the cost and effort look to be more than I'm willing to go through with. A nice, solid blue will be better than the cream and running rust stains I currently have... note that the source of the rust has been remedied.
 
I really want to stick with rattle cans. I have no sprayer or compressor and don't particularly want to get one just for this project.

I'm probably going to go with Krylon since they're owned by Sherwin Williams. I'd like a flake or pearl look, but the cost and effort look to be more than I'm willing to go through with. A nice, solid blue will be better than the cream and running rust stains I currently have... note that the source of the rust has been remedied.
send along a picture when you're done!
 
I think @Blmpkn had got some metal flake paint in a rattle can from somewhere.

Rustoleum will lay decently flat painted on with a brush, I hear even better if you thin it out a bit. It's pretty soft though. I like it for tools and truck beds and stuff that is going to get scratched up anyway. Easy to touch up and recoat.

I've also seen people do a roller/ brush job on a car with it, then after a lot of hand sanding use spray can clear coat on top.
 

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