Opinions needed - best ranger 4x4?

[Lil2much]

Had 4 rangers in my life but never a 4x4. I plan on using my tax money next month to look into purchasing one. I'd love some opinions on different years and models of Rangers to help me narrow down a type to be looking for.

I tend to favor first and second gens, but im open to whatever. I want something relatively easy to maintain and work on. Reliability to me is more important than a high performance offroad vehicle. Look forward to any and all pointers you can throw my way...

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you prefer first and second gen, you'd be best off with a '90-92 as they come with the best parts... they have the Dana 35 front axle and a 1354 transfer case, but through '97 should be pretty reliable drivetrain wise, I just prefer the TTB axle over the SLA axles...

 

[adsm08]

I agree, the TTB is superior to the SLA in all but one aspect and that is alignment. The adjustments on the TTB are easier to make, but you really have to know what you are doing to get the steering wheel straight.

If I was to go looking for a new to me Ranger today I would look for a 97 4.0 with manual T-case and manual hubs.

If you really like the 1st and 2nd gen trucks the 90-92 has stronger stuff, and can come with the 4.0.

 

[AllBlackBimmer]

How much in general are you looking to spend?

Do you prefer manual or auto locking hubs? Manuals are more durable,both autos are very convenient.

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, the auto hubs are convenient all right. Right up until you are stuck and they won't engage. Then they suck ass.

 

[AllBlackBimmer]

Yeah, the auto hubs are convenient all right. Right up until you are stuck and they won't engage. Then they suck ass.

Hahaha.
Very true. I assume if doing muddling, they tend to get jammed much more ten than snow? I def heard many complaints about auto hubs, but I like mine so far... Until I'm stuck and they wont work

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, you don't have auto hubs. You have a live axle on your 04. There is no way to disconnect the axle from the hub.

I blew out an auto hub last winter, in 6 inches of snow. I had to dig out to get out of the way, then let the truck sit for a week until things melted enough for me to drive it again.

 

[AllBlackBimmer]

Yeah, you don't have auto hubs. You have a live axle on your 04. There is no way to disconnect the axle from the hub.

I blew out an auto hub last winter, in 6 inches of snow. I had to dig out to get out of the way, then let the truck sit for a week until things melted enough for me to drive it again.

Pardon my ignorance, but what's the difference?
Is it better/worse/or just different than hubs? I think live axles lock the front wheels together or something? So they spin the same? Maybe I'm wrong.

Sorry, am more of a car guy, just getting my feet wet in the "truck world"

 

[adsm08]

On 84-2001.5 the front axle had a disconnect of some sort. Auto hubs, manual hubs, or those stupid pulse vacuum hubs, but there was always some way to disengage the axle shaft from the wheel hub.

In the late part of the 2001 model year Ford switched the Rangers to what we call a "live axle". There is still a differential in the front, so the wheels are not "locked together" as you say, but the axle shaft in the front is splined into the wheel hub, and an axle nut holds it there, and there is no way to disengage the axle, or any other part of the front drive train, from the hub. It more resembles what you would see in a front-wheel drive car, but with a regular diff in place of a trans axle.

So now there is no way to lock or unlock the front end, so the only part you need to worry about engaging is the transfer case itself.

 

[AllBlackBimmer]

On 84-2001.5 the front axle had a disconnect of some sort. Auto hubs, manual hubs, or those stupid pulse vacuum hubs, but there was always some way to disengage the axle shaft from the wheel hub.

In the late part of the 2001 model year Ford switched the Rangers to what we call a "live axle". There is still a differential in the front, so the wheels are not "locked together" as you say, but the axle shaft in the front is splined into the wheel hub, and an axle nut holds it there, and there is no way to disengage the axle, or any other part of the front drive train, from the hub. It more resembles what you would see in a front-wheel drive car, but with a regular diff in place of a trans axle.

So now there is no way to lock or unlock the front end, so the only part you need to worry about engaging is the transfer case itself.

so, in theory, is this better/worse or just different design from the auto/manual hubs?

sounds like its better in the fact there are just less moving parts and things to break?

thanks for the education lessons!

 

[Will]

I like any 4.0, D35 Ranger. These are automotive Erector Sets. You just find the parts you want and bolt them on. I don't want an 80's or early 90s auto, but I'd be fine with maybe a '93 and on auto. I have a manual now, but I could see putting a C5 in it one day--I have 2 of them. I like to drink coffee and leave the shifting to the car. C5 can be built to handle a 460 and I plan to tow my RC-30 trackloader on a 3/4-scale gooseneck behind this truck--I think the manual will handle it, but the C5 will be better. Get the body and engine you want and everything else can be assembled.

Auto hubs can work fine if you clean them and lightly oil. Most people pack them with grease and the grease gets stiff, especially in the winter, and they are slow to engage. And they get an impulse impact when the axle is spinning like crazy and they do manage to engage. Also, when going from reverse to forward etc, they disengage and then re-engage also causing a shock if you are hammering it. So if you keep them clean, and you realize that you have to take it easy switching directions and engaging them, then they can work just fine. They aren't any weaker than standard manual hubs once they are engaged. I used them for a long time. There are two different Warn manual hubs that fit the Ranger TTB D35. One is 29071, which is also the factory-supplied hub. It's okay, but I've seen a lot of them lose their hats when hammered on. Not going to happen on a stock-type truck being intelligently driven. The premium Warn hub 37780 was made as a kit to use on rear Jeep D35s for flat towing them. Rear axles have to be a lot stronger than front axles and these hubs are twice as heavy and I've only broken one, and the body isn't the thing that broke. Something inside got eaten. They are an exact fit, but they will be sold as a Jeep part.

One more thing. The worst hub I've used was the PileMarker 428. I believe they were lathed from a stick of frozen butter.

 

[Mickey Bitsko]

I like any 4.0, D35 Ranger. These are automotive Erector Sets. You just find the parts you want and bolt them on. I don't want an 80's or early 90s auto, but I'd be fine with maybe a '93 and on auto. I have a manual now, but I could see putting a C5 in it one day--I have 2 of them. I like to drink coffee and leave the shifting to the car. C5 can be built to handle a 460 and I plan to tow my RC-30 trackloader on a 3/4-scale gooseneck behind this truck--I think the manual will handle it, but the C5 will be better. Get the body and engine you want and everything else can be assembled.

Auto hubs can work fine if you clean them and lightly oil. Most people pack them with grease and the grease gets stiff, especially in the winter, and they are slow to engage. And they get an impulse impact when the axle is spinning like crazy and they do manage to engage. Also, when going from reverse to forward etc, they disengage and then re-engage also causing a shock if you are hammering it. So if you keep them clean, and you realize that you have to take it easy switching directions and engaging them, then they can work just fine. They aren't any weaker than standard manual hubs once they are engaged. I used them for a long time. There are two different Warn manual hubs that fit the Ranger TTB D35. One is 29071, which is also the factory-supplied hub. It's okay, but I've seen a lot of them lose their hats when hammered on. Not going to happen on a stock-type truck being intelligently driven. The premium Warn hub 37780 was made as a kit to use on rear Jeep D35s for flat towing them. Rear axles have to be a lot stronger than front axles and these hubs are twice as heavy and I've only broken one, and the body isn't the thing that broke. Something inside got eaten. They are an exact fit, but they will be sold as a Jeep part.

One more thing. The worst hub I've used was the PileMarker 428. I believe they were lathed from a stick of frozen butter.

What model automatic transmission did ford put in the 93-97 rangers?

 

[Lil2much]

How much in general are you looking to spend?

Do you prefer manual or auto locking hubs? Manuals are more durable,both autos are very convenient.

Im lookin to be in the $2000-$3500 ranger depending on how generous my uncle Sam decides to be this year. Manual hubs are fine, reaaaal flat land here so I wouldnt be switching so much.

You guys are great, love the detail, keep um comin. Much thanks.

 

[96Indyram]

Manual/auto hubs disconnect the axle at the wheel. So when not locked in, the axles and front driveshaft do not spin when the tires roll down the road. ( kinda saves on gas ...less drag so they say)
Every set of auto hubs I had gave me problems...usually trying to engage while driving down the highway. Nasty clicking and banging until it tore itself up real quick.

The newer live axle has all the front axles and driveshaft spinning all the time while driving, just no power going to it until the transfercase is engaged. Almost all newer 4x4 are like this regardless of make...(chevy, dodge,jeep,ford...)

So the decision is really your preference.

For me I am a hands on kind of guy that don't like alot of auto crap to do it for me.
If I want 4x4 I will get out lock the hubs..I know they are engaged, then get in and yank the manual lever down to engage the transfer case. I don't care for the electric transfercase engagement... broke or bad connection in a wire, bad switch, or motor goes bad under there...4x4 will not work. stuck in 2wd.
With a manual transfercase, I know for a fact it is engaged, just like on my manual transmission I know for a fact its in a gear of my choosing.
When I unlock the Hubs...I know they are unlocked and not engaged.

Good luck in your search!!
Just remember...a 4x4 will get you stuck deeper and farther from help than a 2wd.
LOL

 

[Arkie 2001]

don't want to sound smart a** but my favorite is mine early production 2001 edge worry free its entire life so far 79850 miles use it for pulling boat and trail type off road during hunting season may be me but 2 wheel get you in 4 wheel is so you don't have to walk out