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Opening up wheels/brakes/axles for projects, could use some parts selection help


eightynine4x4

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2020
Messages
779
City
New York
Vehicle Year
1989
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
2.5" Suspension
Tire Size
31 x 10.5 x 15
Hey all,
So I'm soon going to prop the ranger up and address multiple basic things in axles/wheels. If anybody has some pointers on parts selection, and what else should be replaced while I'm in there, that would be great! Mostly I'm just heading into the unknown regarding tiny pieces that you don't discover should be replaced until you open it all up, like little clips or springs or other bits that are a no brainer to make fresh...

[ 1989 / 4x4 / Short Bed / Single Cab / 7.5" Limited Slip 4.10 / Automatic / 9-Inch Rear Drums]

1. Firstly, the front bearings and shoes and seals and rotors, and this is where i have the most questions. Does this list look correct? Left seal is different than right, and also there are TWO bearings for each side? Inner and outer for each wheel?

Front Left Seal: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1118675&cc=1137642&pt=1860&jsn=21285
Front Right Seal: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1572292&cc=1137642&pt=1860&jsn=21286
2X Front Outer Bearing: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117080&cc=1137642&pt=1672&jsn=21277
2X Front Inner Bearing: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1119947&cc=1137642&pt=1672&jsn=21278
2X Rotor: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6125172&cc=1137642&pt=1896&jsn=21287
Set of Pads: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3960183&cc=1137642&pt=1684&jsn=21279&jsn=21279

2. I'm doing the rear axle shaft seals because my rear left is leaking gear oil on the drum. Also will put new bearings in since it'll be all opened up.

3. I'm replacing the E-brake cables and struts. I've currently got no E brake and it's looking seized. This is high priority for me because it will be a while before i have total confidence in the whole braking system.

4. Since the leak will be fixed, I can install new brake shoes in rear.
 
Those first two parts are axle seals that go in the axle housing, not right behind the wheel bearings. The wheel seals are the same left/right.
 
Those first two parts are axle seals that go in the axle housing, not right behind the wheel bearings. The wheel seals are the same left/right.
Gotcha,
Having a little trouble finding a front wheel seal from the list of parts in this category...
Any suggestion?

In this guide, https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/rear-axle-shaft-seal-replacement/
those seals in rear are referred to as axle shaft seals, but in the rock auto listings they're referred to as wheel seals. So that kinda confuses me regarding the fronts..
 

Pretty sure these are the ones you're after (front inner wheel seal 4WD Dana28).
Thanks,
I’m mostly just looking to prevent the front axle from leaking like the rear axle currently is. I am assuming it happens to all wheels at some point.
Are these parts what I’m aiming for? And are the other front wheel parts in original post excessive and not likely needing to be replaced?
 
Anybody know if there is just one bearing in each rear wheel, or are there two? In hand I have a pair of them, one for each wheel, and am now realizing I may need to order another before starting the project if there are in fact two in each wheel..
 
The Ranger rear axles have one wheel bearing. The axle shaft is supported by the carrier which has it’s own bearings in the differential.
 
The Ranger rear axles have one wheel bearing. The axle shaft is supported by the carrier which has it’s own bearings in the differential.

Great thanks!

Status update on the rear project w the axe seal leak and doing new shoes and bearings.
My truck’s bolt for the cross pin isn’t 5/16” as mentioned in the Rear Axle Seal guide here at TRS, instead it’s a smidge smaller so the 12 point end of wrench just slightly strips the corners of the head and has a lot of free play otherwise. Gonna have to go pick up a 7.5mm or 7mm and see what works. Or maybe 9/32”.
I have both drums off and one is quite rusty on outside, had to hammer it off, but it seems pretty much ok on the inner braking surface.
Looking forward to getting the axle shafts out and seeing inside. Really hoping the bearing removal/install isn’t a monster.
6575C9E8-0D9E-46BD-AFBB-7D5DC8BC212D.jpeg
 
that bolt has lock-tight from the factory. it can be a challenge to get out.
I use 6 point tools on it. slow steady pressure, and be sure to not induce off-center pulling force. that's where the tool pops off sideways.
 
that bolt has lock-tight from the factory. it can be a challenge to get out.
I use 6 point tools on it. slow steady pressure, and be sure to not induce off-center pulling force. that's where the tool pops off sideways.
You use a 5/16? Maybe a six point will work.
 
8mm = 0.3149"
5/16 = 0.3125"

not much of a difference, but if the bolt is already partially rounded that extra .0024 is going the wrong direction.

however,,, tools have tolerances, find the one that fits best.
 
I have a 5/16 snap on 6 point extra long brake bleeder wrench I use on that bolt.
 
in the get creative department, I have an 8mm allen socket with a removable bit.,
that makes a nice thick and deep 6 pt socket.


I have a 5/16 snap on 6 point extra long brake bleeder wrench I use on that bolt.

does it have the rounded or sharp angles?

for those tough bolts, get out of the box.
 
in the get creative department, I have an 8mm allen socket with a removable bit.,
that makes a nice thick and deep 6 pt socket.




does it have the rounded or sharp angles?

for those tough bolts, get out of the box.
Hmm that’s a good point. I have one of those too, with an 8mm removable Allen bit. Only question is can my smallest socket wrench get in there too. Will give it a shot.
I also am curious to put calipers on the bolt head. I tried both a 5/16 and 8mm crescent just to see how they fit and both were pretty oversized regardless of the corners being a little worn. Kinda weird
 

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