One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.

[Jbrown1238]

Do you thinking adding a mustang oil pan will be pretty much bolt and go and have enough clearance? I could make the adaptor plates no problem. And yea I might just relocate the filter. Which relocator did you use?? I'm gonna go around to shops and ask if they can disable pats for me

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RangerSVT addressed the PATS issue in the previous post.

I don't think the Mustang oil pan will work. I may be wrong but I am pretty sure it is out of the question.

I used the Perma Cool oil filter adapter for both ends but purchased them separately and not as the kit. I plan to have the hoses custom made to the exact length and didn't want to pay for the hoses and fittings in the kit that I wasn't going to use. Besides the two adapters were less expensive on eBay as individual items.

 

[dzrt_ranger]

How much did you guys pay for your tuner? I was just going to take it somewhere so they could remove it but If it isn't much more I'll just buy the tuner itself

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[RangerSVT]

I bought mine used, but it ended up being locked. By the time I got it unlocked, I only saved about $25, not counting fuel I spent tunning around. New they are $379, that includes 3 free custom tunes...

SVT

 

[dzrt_ranger]

Cool. Ima ask around at shops and see what would be a better option.

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[Jbrown1238]

My son had given me a left over transmission mount plate from his V8 Ranger a few years ago when he sold the truck. He said that it did not look as solid as he would have preferred and recommended that I go with another option. But I wanted to use some of the pieces from his truck for personal reasons so I decided to modify the plate slightly to overcome the issue. I had a shop weld gussets on both sides and a plate along the back side to box the piece on three sides. (Shown below with the transmission mount)







After a quick coat or two of flat black paint it is ready to be mounted. Several of the 12 pt. black oxide fasteners could not be ordered in the correct size from my ARP supplier so local hex head pieces were secured for now.



I just raised the transmission slightly and slid the plate directly into place. Then attached the mounting hardware and the task was complete.

 

[RangerSVT]

Looks good, if you're gonna have those hex bolts in for test & tuning, you might want to throw a few washers in there so the bolt heads don't pull through the crossmember....

SVT

 

[Jbrown1238]

Looks good, if you're gonna have those hex bolts in for test & tuning, you might want to throw a few washers in there so the bolt heads don't pull through the crossmember....

SVT

Good point. I am going to try and find the ARP pieces after I double check the measurements now that everything is in place. When I change them out I will go ahead and add the washers. I am considering a small plate under the fasteners to spread the stress evenly over this area of the cross member.

 

[don4331]

Only three ways to get around pats, get the modules & ecu from the same donor and wire them in, delete pats via aftermarket tuner (like brown and I did), or in your case you are using a 98, which means you are using the return fuel system, just use a 96-97 ecu...

SVT

There is 4th way: Canuck '98s have the return-less fuel system and no PATS (at least the 6 through my hands).

Now whether it is worth your while to get a Canadian, eh! ECU or not is separate issue.

Ya, I'm too nice to daughter, son and 3 nieces.

 

[Lil-Pony]

There is 4th way: Canuck '98s have the return-less fuel system and no PATS (at least the 6 through my hands).



Now whether it is worth your while to get a Canadian, eh! ECU or not is separate issue.



Ya, I'm too nice to daughter, son and 3 nieces.

Are the wire harnesses bipartial to what ecm is used.


Sent from outer space.

 

[Jbrown1238]

I picked up a new 2001 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8 Radiator to test fit in the Ranger. It bolted right into place without modification and seemed to have enough clearance in front for the OEM fan clutch and fan assembly.



I managed to get the fan clutch threaded on to the water pump but did not tighten it down to spec. I just wanted to see if it would thread into place and allow for enough clearance.















Before I could attach the fan it started to storm outside and I was forced to cover up the project for the night. I do know that when the fan is attached to the fan clutch it does not stick out any further forward than the fan clutch itself. Unless there are clearance issues between the fan and the sides of the radiator I don’t think there will be any problems at all with using the OEM set up. I also picked up the upper and lower radiator hoses and they both fit like a glove.

 

[Jbrown1238]

Today as I worked through a few boring items such as routing wiring and hoses I spent a few minutes kicking around several ideas for the shifter configuration. The shifter in the 99 Ranger didn’t move back as far as the one I did in the 93 Ranger several years ago. At least it didn’t seem like it did at first. After looking at it for a while I realized that the 60/40 split bench seat is different in the two models. The 99 Ranger seat is cut deeper into the front center section than the 93 Ranger which allows for more clearance for the shifter. The problem I had in the 93 Ranger was the seat would collide with the shifter when moved forward into my driving position. The only solution with that application was to run buckets seats. I would really like to keep the 60/40 split bench seat and I think I will be able to in the 99 Ranger.

I plan to run a Pro 5.0 shifter in this truck as I did in the 93 Ranger. I will have a custom shifter lever cut and machined slightly shorter than the stock Ranger shifter lever. The new shifter lever will accept the OEM shift boot and shift knob (I like the OEM style and want the truck to look stock). I will be able to save the stock cup holder but will need to reverse the shifter and shifter boot 180 degrees so both are angled forward. This will put the shifter knob very close to the original factory Ranger location. I will probably have a shifter boot trim ring CNC cut from Billet Aluminum to match the base of the boot.

Here are a few mock photos of the rough out.

 

[Lariat]

Seems interesting! I can't wait to hear this thing fire!

 

[Jbrown1238]

I don’t have a lot to report this week as I am still working on a lot of stuff behind the scene. Concentrating mostly on the front brake set up and ordering parts for that project (update coming soon). I have also been trying to finish the engine wiring and fitting various pieces such as the radiator shroud and fan assembly. I used the salvage 5.0 shroud, fan, and fan clutch for the test fit and then ordered a new three piece set up once I was comfortable with the fit. Here are a few photos just to keep things moving along.









Right now I have the bottom harness bracket tied to the frame where I need to drill and tap a hole to attach it in place. I wanted to make sure it cleared the sway bar and a couple other obstacles down below before drilling the hole. I will probably tackle this task tomorrow.





If you remember from an earlier post I extended my 42 pin connector approximately 22 inches so it would not sit across the top of the upper intake. With the added length I was able to tuck it behind the upper intake, run it over the top of the steering shaft, and under the power brake booster. Now the plug sits alongside the clutch master cylinder hidden from view and safe from the heat of the header tubes.





The poor thing is screaming for front suspension and wheels. Hopefully that will start to take shape very soon.

 

[veefer800canuck]

Dude, I need to buy that truck when it's done.

WOW.

It's going to be a brand spanking new 2015 Ranger 5.0

 

[Jbrown1238]

Dude, I need to buy that truck when it's done.

WOW.

It's going to be a brand spanking new 2015 Ranger 5.0

I was thinking about that yesterday. Very little is not new, the block and crank, the rear end housing, some of the fuel lines and brake lines, and most of the wiring.