Oil thread, I know it's a dead horse

[97ranger xlt]

it will be interesting to see if the M1 cuts down on oil consumption for a high revving 4cyl with 222k on it...
no leaks sofar?

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

No leaks, for one I not too long ago 3-5 months ago, did oil pan, valve cover, cam/ crank seal. the only seals i haven't done is valve guide..... not going to until I have to either..... I hate working on my vehicles for the most part, after i work on everyone else's junk, I get burned out.

 

[JohnnyO]

it will be interesting to see if the M1 cuts down on oil consumption for a high revving 4cyl with 222k on it...
no leaks sofar?

My mom's car uses noticeably MORE oil with Mobil 1. On an engine with over 200k I don't think what oil you use will matter much at that point.
Upside to synthetics, if an engine DOES burn oil it won't smoke much at all if you use synthetic. It'll still burn oil, you just won't see it. Learned that trick from my cousin who works at, shall we say, a "shady" used car lot. I tried it a few years ago on the '91 Town Car beater, recently junked, that my dad kept at his house in FL. Bazillion miles on it, burned oil like a two-stroke, I'd change the oil once a year with Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage and it would hardly smoke at all. It would still burn a quart every two weeks while not being driven many miles, but it didn't smoke.

 

[ZMan]

The main reason I wouldn't switch to Syntetic is because it WILL start leaking. It it already leaks, it will get worse. edit: read you replaced all your seals, so this point may be moot.

I bought my Buick with 108k miles on it, and started running Royal Purple Synthetic in it immediately. It didn't leak a drop when I bought it, within a couple thousand miles it started leaving spots on the floor, it was leaking from the oil pan gasket and main seals.

As far as protecting better..it just spun a bearing at 142k. I'm gonna go the cheap route and just run convential in my replacement engine.

If you buy a car new, and run it on Synthetic from the start, its all good, but if its been running on conventional for hundreds of thousands of miles, don't bother switching.

 

[MountainMike]

Has anyone ever used Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W40? Or Maybe Pennzoil Platinum? But they only make the platinum in 30 wt I wanted to try and slow down my oil consumption between oil changes, which is about a 1/2 qt to 1 qt every 4k...

I used to run GTX high mileage. Never had any issues with it. But I stuck with conventional oil because that car had slight oil leaks and sice all particles in a synthetic oil are uniform in size the leak will not slow like it sometimes does with dino juice.

I currently run Mobil High Mileage Super 2000 5W30 in my Ranger. It is a "highly refined sythetic blend" as they say. Basically it is a semi-syn with high mileage additives in it. I am considering switching to full synthetic as the Ranger burns a touch of oil but is otherwise tight as a drum. I have noticed the 4L likes the Super 2000 plus it comes in a convient 5L jug. My old boss had a relatively noisy engine in his Tracker but as soon as he switched over there was a noticeable quieting of the motor. Not sure if it was just the oil change but I've had good luck with it.

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

My car doesn't smoke as it is, even though I think it's the valve guide seals causing most of the oil loss, you can't even see it when you start it. About once a year 15K or so I have to take the plugs out and clean 'em from oil residue, that's all. My UOA's still come back great, and my leak down testing shows less than 5% leak down on all 4 holes. This has been a great car for the $200 I paid for it a few years back... hahaha It will soon need a new carb, as I am not going to attempt a rebuild on a aisin carb, I will adapt a weber to it and be done with it. It does need struts and a dash pad, and new carpet, but it's my daily beater and the struts are gonna be as far as I go. I'd rather put the wear/ tear on this one and let the nicer rides sit at home and stay nice....

 

[exbass94]

The main reason I wouldn't switch to Syntetic is because it WILL start leaking. It it already leaks, it will get worse. edit: read you replaced all your seals, so this point may be moot.

I bought my Buick with 108k miles on it, and started running Royal Purple Synthetic in it immediately. It didn't leak a drop when I bought it, within a couple thousand miles it started leaving spots on the floor, it was leaking from the oil pan gasket and main seals.

As far as protecting better..it just spun a bearing at 142k. I'm gonna go the cheap route and just run convential in my replacement engine.

If you buy a car new, and run it on Synthetic from the start, its all good, but if its been running on conventional for hundreds of thousands of miles, don't bother switching.

Wrong, wrong, and more wrong. IF an engine already leaks, synthetic could possibly make it worse, but synthetic does not MAKE engines leak. It is NEVER too late to switch to synthetic. I switched my Explorer at 137k, and now at 151k, still no leaks. I switched my 1992 Honda Accord at 125k, it now has 137k, no leaks at all.

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

actually I never run synthetic in a spanking new engine, it's a waste to me. When I build an engine or get a crate, we run water and no coolant, and dino oil for 20 minutes, draind and change filter, drain and add antifreeze. Then run 500 mile change oil and filter, then 1000, then 3000, until the wear settles down by use of UOA's, then when the engine actually breaks in I switch to syn's, but just never did on my car.

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

anoyone know how to save a pdf onto here so you can see my oil samples?

 

[chazzone]

Sure is a lot of BS going around here. If your engine doesn't leak now, synthetics will not make it leak.

A good synthetic is better in every way for engine life, than a conventional oil, which is why conventional oil is used to break in a new engine. It allows more engine wear.

You should also not be using 10W oil in your engine. 5W30 is probably what it was originally designed for, but even that is not sufficient, it also has other characteristics to be considered. The are designated by the additional ratings listed.
I use Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in my BII, but not until I discovered that it is the only American oil that meets the standards for my BMW.

If it's good enough for the Bimmer, it's good enough for the BII (which has 325,000 miles, BTW).

So, if you want better mileage, use a full synthetic 5W-30 or 5W-40. Your engine will last longer, and you'll save some money on gas.

 

[ZMan]

Sure is a lot of BS going around here. If your engine doesn't leak now, synthetics will not make it leak.

A good synthetic is better in every way for engine life, than a conventional oil, which is why conventional oil is used to break in a new engine. It allows more engine wear.

You should also not be using 10W oil in your engine. 5W30 is probably what it was originally designed for, but even that is not sufficient, it also has other characteristics to be considered. The are designated by the additional ratings listed.
I use Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in my BII, but not until I discovered that it is the only American oil that meets the standards for my BMW.

If it's good enough for the Bimmer, it's good enough for the BII (which has 325,000 miles, BTW).

So, if you want better mileage, use a full synthetic 5W-30 or 5W-40. Your engine will last longer, and you'll save some money on gas.

I owned my Buick for 3 months before I switched to synthetic. It didn't leak a DROP, I was underneath it a few times, and it was completely dry. 1 month after switching to Royal purple I noticed oil started running down the oil pan all the way around, and it started dripping shortly after I noticed. Tell me, since you're the expert, how did this happen? Did the oil pan gasket and main seals just happen to go bad completely by coincidence?

Ya, exbass said if it already leaks putting in synthetic could make it worse...thats pretty much the same deal as "making it leak", because it made it worse 10 fold.

 

[chazzone]

I owned my Buick for 3 months before I switched to synthetic. It didn't leak a DROP, I was underneath it a few times, and it was completely dry. 1 month after switching to Royal purple I noticed oil started running down the oil pan all the way around, and it started dripping shortly after I noticed. Tell me, since you're the expert, how did this happen? Did the oil pan gasket and main seals just happen to go bad completely by coincidence?

Ya, exbass said if it already leaks putting in synthetic could make it worse...thats pretty much the same deal as "making it leak", because it made it worse 10 fold.

Yeah, you're right. One example with no other considerations completely disproves my experience.

What was i thinking?

I need to go tell all my old stuff that it needs to start leaking because some guy had a Buick leak oil after he bought it.

Let's see, thats an '89 BI w/325,000 miles, and '89 BMW 735i w/ 189,000 miles (doesn't use a drop of oil between 9,000 mile OCI), 76 F-250, 2002 Escape, and a 91 E350. All use synthetic, none leak.

But wait, there's my folks vehicles, inlaws vehicles, and a few friends vehicles that I help to maintain.

All use synthetic. All were changed over from conventional oils, and most have high miles,and none developed unusual oil leaks or usage after being switched to synthetic oils.

Use what you want on your stuff. If but if your gaskets are rotted and so full of muck that fresh clean oil makes them leak, then you might look at something besides the oil you used.

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

Update. I am coming on 2K miles. No real change in fuel mileage. I have noticed though on start up, instead of my oil light coming on for a second or so, it flickers very fast for no more than a second, and goes off. Will let ya'll know about oil consumption and oil samples. It would be really help full if someone knew how to convert a pdf to a jpg to post my oil samples.

 

[chazzone]

Update. I am coming on 2K miles. No real change in fuel mileage. I have noticed though on start up, instead of my oil light coming on for a second or so, it flickers very fast for no more than a second, and goes off. Will let ya'll know about oil consumption and oil samples. It would be really help full if someone knew how to convert a pdf to a jpg to post my oil samples.

So, what oil are you using?

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W40 syn