Oil spitting from exhaust

[enginepaul]

Not taking any side here, but I've worked on a few engines - and I used to be a licensed mechanic - and don't remember seeing oil coming out of an exhaust pipe. I have seen "oily residue" but the likelihood of oil making it to the tail pipe is slim. Try putting drops of oil on the outside of a warmed up tail pie and I'll bet you see smoke and disappearing oil, but then again, I never tried that.
If there is something on the inside of the tail pipe - other than a little residue - rub your finger on it (after the pipe cools) and try to determine what it is. There is a problem with combustion and the fuel, possibly including oil mixed in, but oil being forced all they way through the exhaust system is very unlikely. If you have a working catalytic converter it would be impossible - but the converter will stop working very soon after the problem starts so that remains a remote possibility.
The point is that oil in the exhaust is the last thing to look for, but oil in the combustion chamber may be one of the first places to look AFTER checking the ignition and carburetor.

 

[birddog321]

I looked alittle closer and think now that it may just be water with soot in it. Never seen it before. But then again I never had a crap 2.8 either. This engine sucks

 

[birddog321]

Started the Valve seals this evening. Too hot during the day. I got the valve covers off and removed the lifters. I am looking for the drain holes and can not find them.. Sorry just a NOOB. Help would be great. Going tomorrow to get the seals and tools

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

I looked alittle closer and think now that it may just be water with soot in it. Never seen it before. But then again I never had a crap 2.8 either. This engine sucks

Soot is a byproduct of combustion. It happens on every engine regardless of design. Yours has more because A it's old, B it's burning oil which creates... more soot, and C it's old. The rings are worn, there is 25 years of carbon buildup in the carburetor, intake manifold, and combustion chamber, making optimal combustion impossible.

As for drain holes in the cylinder head. There should be one in each lower corner and one or two in the middle somewhere. They're not huge, but they go straight to the oil pan. When you look into them all you see is a void. If you can't see them, you got sludge. Mix up a batch of 4 quarts of non detergent 30w oil with 1 quart of diesel fuel or kerosene, and let the engine idle with that in it for about 20 minutes then change it with your preference of regular oil and a new filter.

 

[Angie]

"Started the Valve seals this evening. Too hot during the day. I got the valve covers off and removed the lifters. I am looking for the drain holes and can not find them.. Sorry just a NOOB. Help would be great. Going tomorrow to get the seals and tools "


ummmm you really CAN'T (easily) take the valve stem seals off/out with out taking off the head first. if it is possible to do this please correct me. And if it can be done easily how do you keep the valves from falling into the chamber of you don't compress the chamber with air of something to keep them in place?

1 - take off the spring, (using a compression clamp) this is after the rocker rails are off of coarse

2 while depressing the spring carefully take off the retainer clips.... (carefully for they can shoot out)

3 take out the valves and keep them in order if you are using the same ones.

4. pry out/off the old valve stem seals. being careful to not damage the seats.

5. read up on how to re-install the seals then reverse process to put back together.


ok, now there is no way you have the lifters out without tearing the top end of the motor apart. I think you might mean the rocker rails? Now why are you actually doing all this?????? valve seals are gone when and if you get small puffs of smoke when you fire up the engine... for the seal leaks small amounts of oil when the motor is off and this flows to the chambers.... seals are usualy only replaced when a full head/valve job is done. they are not something that is of general maintenance. when placeing back on the rocker rails get a torque wrench to make sure that you have them properly tightened. and don't adjust the rocker screws when you put them back on, for this could give you real probs, so you might want to set your rocker/valve lash when you reinstall.

 

[Angie]

actually i guess you can find the top of the piston to the cylinder and hope you have it right, using toilet paper in the plug hole to see when it flys out with the top stroke of compression. this will let you know when the piston is as far to top as it goes. this will keep the valve from falling to the bottom. risky if you get it wrong..... this was a thought

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It is actually quite easy using air pressure in the plug hole put the cylinder on top dead center and put 30 lbs air pressure in the cylinder to hold the valves up you can also push a length of small rope in the cylinder then push the cylinder up to hold the valves up and use a small verticle spring compressor to compress the springs and remove the keepers. New valve guide seals and duraspark ignition and a good nonfeedback carb brings those old engines back to life relatively inexpensive. I also did the intake manifold gasket and she no longer leaks oil either. but I hear if you clean the ends of the manifold with gas good and dry it out you can push some RTV silicone in the valleys to seal them and if you use a used dizzy always put a new o-ring on it when you put it back together. My old pos 2.8 purrs like a kitten now.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I used a skinny long screwdriver to feel the piston go all the way up and if you get it tdc the air pressure will not push it down and I did that just in case I lost a valve but that did not happen I compressed the spring half way and tapped on it to break the keepers loose then compressed it all the way to pull the keepers. from trial and error I got lucky if you do it half way first the keepers dont go flying when you pop it loose I got lucky and didnt lose one when I popped it loose all the way compressed.

 

[Big Jim M]

Oh no!

Started the Valve seals this evening. Too hot during the day. I got the valve covers off and removed the lifters. I am looking for the drain holes and can not find them.. Sorry just a NOOB. Help would be great. Going tomorrow to get the seals and tools

Buford you are fooling around with things you have no idea about! Before you futch something up BEYOND repair, put that thing back together.

You are working in the dark.. You don't have a clue as to what you are doing!

I think you should start by asking questions BEFOR you get a wrench in hand and begin to take things apart.

PLEASE don't attempt to install valve seals with the head still on the engine. You simply don't have the needed knowledge yet.

Big JIm

 

[birddog321]

No worries mate. I didn't pay a dime for this beater. If I F it up I will just pull the engine and pull it apart. It needs lots of work anyways. It leaks oil from every orifice. I don't have the money for seals right now anyway. I just got a $300 power bill so every thing goes back on tomorrow.

 

[birddog321]

Soot is a byproduct of combustion. It happens on every engine regardless of design. Yours has more because A it's old, B it's burning oil which creates... more soot, and C it's old. The rings are worn, there is 25 years of carbon buildup in the carburetor, intake manifold, and combustion chamber, making optimal combustion impossible.

As for drain holes in the cylinder head. There should be one in each lower corner and one or two in the middle somewhere. They're not huge, but they go straight to the oil pan. When you look into them all you see is a void. If you can't see them, you got sludge. Mix up a batch of 4 quarts of non detergent 30w oil with 1 quart of diesel fuel or kerosene, and let the engine idle with that in it for about 20 minutes then change it with your preference of regular oil and a new filter.

Thanks bub I will give this a try

 

[birddog321]

Got everything back together a couple of days ago after i painted the valve covers and air filter cover