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Oil pan removal - It started with a small coolant leak.


BobsRanger

New Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2019
Messages
1
City
Alaska
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Manual
Was working on checking the brakes on my 2000 XLT 4x4 3L Flex fuel when I noticed coolant dripping on the shop floor. Inspection showed it was oozing out past the water pump gasket. No problem! Ordered a new pump & gasket & proceeded to remove the old pump. Hours later figured out move the A/C bracket to the side, removed the radiator & proceeded to unbolt the pump. Crack!! Sheared a bolt where the coolant was oozing out. Now the timing cover needs to be removed to get to the stub of the sheared bolt and hopefully work it out. Checked the DIY instructions for removing the timing cover. Start with removing the oil pan. Seems easy. Checked the instructions for removing the oil pan. Start by removing the flywheel?????? Which means remove the drive shafts and transmission???? There has got to be a better approach. Anyone have any advice?
 
I have never worked on a 3.0. but sometimes on certain engines you can take half the bolts out of the oil pan, loosen the ones in the back, and then just drop the oil pan down a little bit. On the old 302's they would give you pieces of the oil pan gasket to graft back in place with sealer. If they used a nice rubber gasket on the 3.0 it may go back together with just a little bit of added sealer on it.
 
There are good videos on line, there are 2 bolts at the front of the pan that you need to take out. Gently work the timing cover off being extremely careful not to rip the pan gasket. Coolant is going to dump in your oil pan so be prepared for an oil change.
Using cleaner ( I used brake ) carefully clean and dry around the gasket area. While you have all of this off I would also change the camshaft chain and sprockets ( cheap insurance on an older engine and stopped spark knock I was starting to get )
Use good sealant when you gently slide the timing cover back into place.
I also would get a true motorcraft water pump i paid 75.00 for one. mu OEM lasted15 years and the one I bought before after market only 7. Watch the videos there are some very good ones on youtube. Good Luck.

And I literally had to do this last month because my timing cover seal failed catastrophically . I replaced gaskets water pump radiator and hoses, and my truck is running better than it has in years.
 
My advice with a 2000 4WD 3.0L - remove the transmission, lower the front suspension, and remove the oil pan since those all have gasket oil leaks anyway just like in my 2002 4WD 3.0L. While at it, replace the rear main seal. If an automatic transmission, replace the front seal while the transmission is out. Also a good time to replace the oil pan should the drain plug leak like mine.

Those aluminum front timing covers all seem to eventually leak at the gasket joints and should be replaced. I'm told this is because the coolant becomes acidic. I now periodically check the coolant pH in all my vehicles.

Oh yes, the valve covers probably leak oil by now as well. Again, I should know.
 

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