It took quite a bit of maneuvering and troubleshooting, but my oil pan is finally free! I will provide a basic guide on how I ended up removing the oil pan on my 94' 3.0 Ranger, albeit I have very specific circumstances. I did not have to unbolt the transmission from the block nor did I have to use a sling or support bars. My heads and front engine cover were removed during this job because the original job was to replace my head gaskets and this gave me enough room to jack the engine/tranny assembly up as much as possible up against the firewall.
There is an inspection plate that holds the oil pan in place that can only be properly removed by unbolting the tranny from the block. I was unwilling to do start that project so I cut mine out just enough to free the pan. This metal plate will have to be put back in place as best as possible when you are putting everything back together. I was able to cut through it with shears where the starter bolts in and bent the plate enough to release the pan.
After removing all the oil pan bolts, the oil pump is removed by taking out a single 13mm bolt, N606563-S shown below. The oil pump will then be free to drop down to the bottom of the oil pan but will be held in place with the pump shaft (6A618). This shaft will allow rotation of the oil pump inside the pan as long as it's not all the way up, that's where it locks in place. The main hold-up at this point will be the oil pump pickup (6622) which will hit the bottom of the pan and is held in place by the shaft going into the block which only allows rotation on one plane.
Next, I jacked up my engine enough to slide my oil pump out of the pan. I had to jack the engine up from the front to get enough room because when jacked up from where the tranny meets the block, it does not allow enough room to maneuver the oil pan around. If you try to jack from any further back, the whole block/tranny assembly wants to tilt nose-down.
I reassembled my harmonic balancer and crankshaft pulley and jacked from there to give the oil pan as much freedom as possible. I wedged two blocks of wood between the steering rack and cut a saddle in the main block of wood to try to stop it from becoming a circus act. With a second jack under the tranny for a failsafe, I jacked the block/tranny assembly up as high as it would possibly go until the frame started being jacked up with it.
My driver-side engine block mount also needed to be removed completely in order to roll/twist the oil pan as much as possible. After the mount was removed I was able to get a ton of freedom with the oil pan, allowing me to rotate and drop it as far as it would go. At that point, I was still struggling to free the oil pump and was about the unbolt the lower housing off of the pump. While trying to torque the oil pump housing bolts, the pump spun around on the pump shaft and actually spun free out the passenger side of the oil pan. As mentioned, this is only possible if the motor mount is completely removed, allowing maximum rotation of the oil pan.
I was stoked about removing my oil pump but soon found out that EVEN THEN, removing the oil pan from the rear side proved near impossible without disconnecting the block from the tranny. At this point, I had the idea to try pulling the oil pan out from the front of the engine. I removed my non-OSHA-approved crankshaft jacking assembly and used the jack on the transmission to support the block/tranny assembly. I was then FINALLY able to take my oil pan out from the front by tilting it upwards until the crankshaft was inside the front of the oil pan, then I was able to pull it up and out completely.
~Mission Accomplished~
All in all, a MAJOR pain in the ass. I would not recommend doing this job unless it's really leaking a ton of oil and you know for a fact it's from the oil pan gasket. Do not attempt unless you are somewhat experienced, have multiple jacks and all the necessary tools, and are ready for what could turn into days of frustration. I only found one or two posts with relevant information and none of them actually explained a way that worked for me so hopefully this write-up helps someone with this job in the future.
Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated.