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OhhhhhhhKay


i like how its turnin out



and
:threadjacked:
what size are those tires, i like them with the stock wheels
 
haha yeah tin foil works too as a release

We will soon see.

:D

Just for you Rick:icon_hornsup:

P1000191.jpg
 
so did i understand you right when i skimmed over your dezert thread?you aren't doing molds, you're going to sand out the skins in the pic above and use them to skip a step?

how will you'll attach them?probably some good ideas around.

good work anyway,looks like minimal bleed down and bubbles.
 
so did i understand you right when i skimmed over your dezert thread?you aren't doing molds, you're going to sand out the skins in the pic above and use them to skip a step?

how will you'll attach them?probably some good ideas around.

good work anyway,looks like minimal bleed down and bubbles.

Yes I'm skipping the mold part and finishing the skins. I made a roller to roll out the air and smooth things out. The tool was $25 at the marine shop and I made one for nothing with some 1/4" steel rod bent up and some alternating OD washers. Worked Kick ass.

As for attatchment the panels will be bonded and secured to the original and added steel:derisive:. No blending involved.
 
make sure you cure them at a pretty high temp(ramping it up very slowly to almost 200*) so it doesn't shrink on the truck and crack away from the mounts.a controlled cure will keep it from warping as bad later too.
the hard part is going slow enough and supporting them right so they don't warp while curing.like a few hours to ramp up
when bonding to the steel use a very agressive grit like 36 on both surfaces too.

sorry for going off,we tend to hold out our pinky finger when working on plane composites
 
The ones I did are still on the truck and they were rock hard when I last checked them this morning. It was 21°C out last night but the humidity was relatively high. I mixed a bit on the agressive side with the catalyst. when working on the front fender every time i walked past the rear quarter it was like a radiant heater . Where the foam was it was real warm but over the steel areas it was cooler.

Will be doing the same thing on the other side.

A while ago I had a buddy of mine mix up some resin and he used a 35MM film canister for the catalyst. he said about half of that to 1L of resin and it should have a good working time. On the last layer I mixed a little over half of the film canister to 1L and it kicked off pretty good and gave off good heat.
 
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The ones I did are still on the truck and they were rock hard when I last checked them this morning. It was 21°C out last night but the humidity was relatively high. I mixed a bit on the agressive side with the catalyst. when working on the front fender every time i walked past the rear quarter it was like a radiant heater . Where the foam was it was real warm but over the steel areas it was cooler.
the way most resins work they aren't fully cured even now that its been a day,and they are only cured for the temps they have already seen.i could layup parts and leave them in the mold out in the cali sun on hot asphalt for a day or two and it would shrink enough to pop loose from the mold,after looking stable while inside the shop.also as you heat the parts they soften as they fully cure and thats where you get the classic bowed spoiler effect.

i would use your heater to get each part a little past too hot to touch.especially the edges where it will be fastened to the truck.you probably won't see the auto fiberglass guys doing it but they are all about cheap and easy(otherwise theres no profit because they can't charge what the aircraft guys do). since you are doing this your self i'de call it extra insurance

btw the amount of catalyst isen't too important with poly resin as long as theres enough to cure it eventually with some heat
 

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