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OhhhhhhhKay


I like the tube with the metal skin idea...
 
ok, gotcha, it looks like it needs some refining though but more power to ya
 
A older guy i work with was telling us about how his friend used great stuff for body work to.

but you have a good idea going.
 
tooob and relief cut the fenders....run plastic/rubber/grr...to span the gap.


i have seen alot of xj's tricked out that way and have ideas from that.


they dont like how far the 44's stick out, but a reg lifted jeep with fat 35's was sitting parked in the same lot they had me stopped in and i just pointed to it ...and they just said fawk it and let me go...:thefinger:


but....that wont last for long.


no way i am doing glass for a bark buster...that would be patently retarded. now if i had good paint skills and glass skills...that would be different i am sure.


but metel and plastic is alot easier to deal with.


and i know you know i know you know....


ya know:tease:
 
Building things out of 'glass is easy. It's also easy to build glass things that look like shit. I would just put the stock fenders back on.
 
well the buckets turned out tits, so i would bet the fenders will be unique and tits too.


and if they are not....



dont make me come up thar laddie....:thefinger:
 
oh i am sure they will be cut in to the mold and it will be strong as hell...
 
Building things out of 'glass is easy. It's also easy to build glass things that look like shit. I would just put the stock fenders back on.


If they turn out like ass then I didn't try that hard. If I fail i put the stock fender back on.

Easy as that.

I may put some tube inside them to give extra support. I was thinking of leaving the foam inplace, but I may just chip it out. to leave room for some extra support.
 
P1000107.jpg
 
are you using epoxy or poly resin? what cloth weights?are you making one time molds or using gelcoat and micro bubbles to stabilize the mold?i built aircraft molds and prototype parts for a few years,feel free to run any questions you may have by me.

the best thing for wheeling might be to just make skins and pop rivet them on.also if you leave a strip of foam(maybe 2"x1" cross section) around the wheel opening on the inside and glass it in it will add a lot of stiffness.composite airplane wings and surf boards are built on that principle.

if you don't want them to sag in the sun later you should precure them by wrapping them in black plastic and setting them on some hot asphalt while in the mold.they can reach 170* in the sun (in california anyway)

polyester resin shrinks real bad so you might make them 1/4 inch or so too big if thats what you are using
 
are you using epoxy or poly resin? what cloth weights?are you making one time molds or using gelcoat and micro bubbles to stabilize the mold?i built aircraft molds and prototype parts for a few years,feel free to run any questions you may have by me.

the best thing for wheeling might be to just make skins and pop rivet them on.also if you leave a strip of foam(maybe 2"x1" cross section) around the wheel opening on the inside and glass it in it will add a lot of stiffness.composite airplane wings and surf boards are built on that principle.

if you don't want them to sag in the sun later you should precure them by wrapping them in black plastic and setting them on some hot asphalt while in the mold.they can reach 170* in the sun (in california anyway)

polyester resin shrinks real bad so you might make them 1/4 inch or so too big if thats what you are using

Likely 16 oz. chopped strand mat. total of 3 layers (about 3/16 total thickness). Low shrink Polyester resin.
 

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