Odd noise

[Duane867]

I know what it is, what it does and how it functions.

Any who, the aluminum 4.0 HD radiators eliminated the need all together for an external cooler in almost all cases but the hottest climates in RBVS. When you order a towing package thats what you get in the way of cooling now. An aluminum HD dual core radiator/trans cooler all in one ( since like 93 or something I think ? ). You have to purchase the trans cooler from an after market source and install it your self ( or so I was lead to believe any way). My 88 BII had an external from Ford on it though. It was aluminum finned just like the rad with plastic sides. One in, one out to the trans cooler in the rad. They did a lot of weird shit back then, like the whole dual fuel pump de'bockle, and the fricken weak cam thrust plates, and shotty heads on the 2.9's. Not to mention the standard single core aluminum finned plastic tanked radiator for the BII and rangers v6 optioned truck that made it necessary for an external cooler for the trans in some of them with tow packages.

They do use them on sticks. In NASCAR for their manual transmissions as well as for the rear ends. Other then high speed at durations like that , you'll never need one on a stick.

 

[--weezl--]

so i didn't have to extend the lines on the external cooler on my buddy's 02, when we did his body lift? i mean, i know we were both drinking, but it would take a lot of beer to imagine a second tiny radiator, bolted infront of the standard radiator

 

[89_Ranger]

could the water pump be going out? once the engine gets warm and the water pump kicks in is when the noise is occuring correct?

 

[det107]

I had an odd noise at the alternator ( I think it was) years ago & the mechanic explained that it was outfitted w/needle bearings instead of the usual ball bearings. Was told to live with it-

 

[legoms013]

Mine does the same thing. I believe it to be my A/c clutch, but it is possibly any other belt driven accessory.

Very annoyin', but only noticeable on hot hot days (about 90*).

 

[Duane867]

so i didn't have to extend the lines on the external cooler on my buddy's 02, when we did his body lift? i mean, i know we were both drinking, but it would take a lot of beer to imagine a second tiny radiator, bolted infront of the standard radiator

I swear to God dude you will argue about anything.

 

[Duane867]

could the water pump be going out? once the engine gets warm and the water pump kicks in is when the noise is occuring correct?

The water pump doesn't kick in. Its always rotating at round a bout the same speed as the crank.

 

[--weezl--]

I swear to God dude you will argue about anything.

only when someone specifically contradicts things i've said that i know for a fact are true, and post false information in a thread that someone created to ask for help...

as for the noise, it is IMPOSSIBLE for us to figure this out, without seeing the truck or atleast hearing what it sounds like... op, if you have the internet, there are lots of ways you can post a sound clip or video of the noise, 90% of cellphones and about 99% of all digital cameras will allow you to record a video with sound, youtube accounts are 100% free...

any help you are going to get with the information, is a shot in the dark and nothing more than guessing at this point

 

[Duane867]

Specifically contradict you ? False information ? I've about had it with you constantly calling me a liar on here buddy. Who the F do you think you are ? The forum authority on all things automotive with unrelenting knowledge ?

So far as I can tell by your photo, and your attitude; your a Loser in a racoon skin cap in desperate need of a nose job, and a hair cut.

FYI that little rad your seeing in most rangers on the core support in front of the radiator is the AC condenser 90% of the time not the trans cooler. Just thought I would clarify that for you since you mentioned that spot specifically. But since you know it all, I am sure you already knew that.

 

[billpac4u]

Oops . . .

Didn't mean to start an argument! The noise continues, but only when the engine is good 'n hot. Definitely heat related, but not causing problems at this point. I'll just live with it, and I promise, if something develops with it, I'll post here and let you guys know. OK? Now . . . CHILL!

 

[doorgunner]

Didn't mean to start an argument! The noise continues, but only when the engine is good 'n hot. Definitely heat related, but not causing problems at this point. I'll just live with it, and I promise, if something develops with it, I'll post here and let you guys know. OK? Now . . . CHILL!

Well, Bill_ .........I know where the noise at TRS is coming from

(That's a humorous joke fellas )

Anyhow....let me know when you find the solution to the noise problem with your vehicle.....



It's driving me crazy(ier)!!!

 

[Duane867]

Didn't mean to start an argument! The noise continues, but only when the engine is good 'n hot. Definitely heat related, but not causing problems at this point. I'll just live with it, and I promise, if something develops with it, I'll post here and let you guys know. OK? Now . . . CHILL!

Chilled


You know what I just thought of ?
You may want to check out your water hoses after the engine is good and hot.
Check to see if any are collapsing. Old hoses will some times pinch up and could potentially make a noise or two.

 

[--weezl--]

that actually is a really good idea... the lower rad hose has a much higher potential to collapse as the water pump sucks water through the lower, and pushes it into the upper...

check it when it's moderately hot, as the rubber softens up when it's warm... be careful not to burn yourself, and don't check it with the engine running. A pair of thick gloves might be a good idea...

keep in mind that if there is pressure in the system, it will be much firmer, you want the coolant warm-hot, but no pressure

 

[TheTopher]

that actually is a really good idea... the lower rad hose has a much higher potential to collapse as the water pump sucks water through the lower, and pushes it into the upper...

check it when it's moderately hot, as the rubber softens up when it's warm... be careful not to burn yourself, and don't check it with the engine running. A pair of thick gloves might be a good idea...

keep in mind that if there is pressure in the system, it will be much firmer, you want the coolant warm-hot, but no pressure

What he is saying is that you should drive the truck for half an hour then open the radiator cap with your bare hands to release the pressure, make sure you get your face in there nice and close so you can be sure you don't grab the wrong thing. Once it's open take a thick pair of gloves, lay on them so you're comfy and give the lower rad hose a squeeze.


DISCLAIMER: I do not actually recommend doing this. It's a very bad idea.

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

Specifically contradict you ? False information ? I've about had it with you constantly calling me a liar on here buddy. Who the F do you think you are ? The forum authority on all things automotive with unrelenting knowledge ?

So far as I can tell by your photo, and your attitude; your a Loser in a racoon skin cap in desperate need of a nose job, and a hair cut.

FYI that little rad your seeing in most rangers on the core support in front of the radiator is the AC condenser 90% of the time not the trans cooler. Just thought I would clarify that for you since you mentioned that spot specifically. But since you know it all, I am sure you already knew that.

hey duane...

and i gave him that picture.


anyway mine does a similar hum when warm. it does it when slowly reving up around 1k to 1.5k rpms.
im thinking it could be a belt tensioner.
i tried making a video, but the hum isnt noticeable because of the engine noise.