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O/D light and Battery light on..? Coincidence?


CheapThrills

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2010
Messages
221
City
Boynton Beach, FL
Vehicle Year
2006
Transmission
Automatic
Now the only reason I threw both of those in there is because when I dropped the engine back into the truck, bolted everything up, the only light left on was the battery light. I drove it around a little bit, it never went away, but truck was fine, started whenever. Then my trans pump took a dump, replaced that. Then everything was fine, beside that damn battery light still on. Fast forward to a couple days ago, cold morning, went to start up the truck and it was there, went out, came back, then went out and stayed out. About 15 minutes of driving I threw a p1740 code, and my overdrive light was flashing on/off. Did a key cycle it cleared and didn't come back for about another 20 or so minutes of driving. Went to the transmission shop, with my extra TCC Solenoid, replaced the one that was in there, (which had gone bad). Truck drove immaculate, but guess what? That damn battery light is back. So I went to the auto store, had them test it, said I needed a new battery. Put said battery in, still have that stubborn light! Had them test it with the new battery, everything checks out great- but that damn light is still on? On my way home from there guess what.. the damn O/D light starts flashing, but no CEL, so I can't pull the code.. I'm so frustrated with this truck you would not believe. You guys here have helped me a lot, and I'm back for some more.. I've dumped everything I have and then some into this thing and I can't even trust it for 10 minutes. Does anyone have a clue? I'm stumped. Thank you much. :icon_cheers:
 
I didn't find a circuit diagram for the 2006 battery light, but most of these circuits are pretty simple.
Both sides of the battery light get 12v, yup, both sides.
A light bulb works(lights up) when power passes thru it, so if one side gets 12v and the other side gets 0v(ground) power flows thru so bulb will light up.

The battery light is connected to the battery(via key switch) and the alternator(it's one of the smaller wires on the alternator), when key is on battery has 12v but alternator has 0v so bulb lights up.
When you start the engine alternator now has 12v so bulb goes off, both sides are 12v.

Now it is actually 13.6+ volts with alternator working but both sides of the battery light have the same voltage, which is why it goes off.

So I would check the small wires on the alternator, make sure all are making a good connection, not frayed.
 
Could this correlate with my O/D light as well? I appreciate that input I'm going to try it when I get off of work.
 
There may be some exposed wires somewhere.
 
It's either something is wrong with the trans, the solenoid, some wires may be in bad condition, from what a read it can even be things like the alternator, or speed sensor.
 
The best thing to do is check wires, because if they all are fine then that will eliminate that, and then you can narrow it down 1 by 1.
 
Cheap, do yourself a favor and diagnose these problems individually. As you do you may find a common cause, or you may find they are unrelated and it's just a coincidence that all these things have gone wrong at once. But on the surface of it it seems that you have several unrelated issues. I would especially stop trying to lump your transmission issue in with other problems like evap codes battery lights, and exhaust leaks. You have a transmission issue because you have an automatic transmission, not because you flip-flopped some plugs, or because the alternator isn't working correctly.
 
I didn't find a circuit diagram for the 2006 battery light, but most of these circuits are pretty simple.
Both sides of the battery light get 12v, yup, both sides.
A light bulb works(lights up) when power passes thru it, so if one side gets 12v and the other side gets 0v(ground) power flows thru so bulb will light up.

The battery light is connected to the battery(via key switch) and the alternator(it's one of the smaller wires on the alternator), when key is on battery has 12v but alternator has 0v so bulb lights up.
When you start the engine alternator now has 12v so bulb goes off, both sides are 12v.

Now it is actually 13.6+ volts with alternator working but both sides of the battery light have the same voltage, which is why it goes off.

So I would check the small wires on the alternator, make sure all are making a good connection, not frayed.

Okay, I just messed around with the wires, and the light when in and out on that little one wire. Unplugged it, cleaned it, put die-electric grease on it, pushed it back on, light was still on. Pulled it up a bit, light is out.

NOW I JUST NEED TO FIGURE OUT THIS O/D LIGHT :annoyed::annoyed: i've gathered as much as I was doing 60 on i-95, put my cruise control on, watched the RPMs, and they slowly climbed, dropped a little, stayed constant then the O/D light came on. I'm going to do some reading on that, but i'm open to suggestions as well.
 
Cheap, do yourself a favor and diagnose these problems individually. As you do you may find a common cause, or you may find they are unrelated and it's just a coincidence that all these things have gone wrong at once. But on the surface of it it seems that you have several unrelated issues. I would especially stop trying to lump your transmission issue in with other problems like evap codes battery lights, and exhaust leaks. You have a transmission issue because you have an automatic transmission, not because you flip-flopped some plugs, or because the alternator isn't working correctly.

I know. I'm down to one problem. It's just everything hit at once, and now this transmission o/d light is the last one. It comes on when it wants, after about 15-20 minutes of driving roughly.
 
I just have one question. Did you replace anything else when you changed the transmission pump?
 
Well, there goes that theory. I thought maybe the torque converter was a suspect.
 

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