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No gauges after using OBD1 Tester


MuchCody

New Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2022
Messages
4
City
Canada
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys!

I have a 1989 ford ranger 2.9 2wd. It ran perfect and everything was working as it should. I couple years ago I hooked up a OBD1 tester just out of curiosity and apparently it fried something? Fusible link? As soon as I plugged in the tester I heard a bunch of beeps and ticks in the engine bay, (Assuming testing all the connections and components) Anyways nothing popped up on the reader, figured I was good to go. Went for a drive and notice all my gauges stopped working at the same time. The truck still fires up and everything, just no warning lights or gauges. I have checked all the fuses (under the dash and in the engine bay). Swapped out the instrument cluster to see if that fixed anything, nothing. Even tried a different ECM, still nothing. Has anyone gone through this before? Can anyone tell me where a fusible link would be regarding this type of issue?

Also to add on to the gauges, When I turn the ignition on no gauges move besides the voltage. The needle just flicks once and stays before the 8 volt mark.
 
Hey guys!

I have a 1989 ford ranger 2.9 2wd. It ran perfect and everything was working as it should. I couple years ago I hooked up a OBD1 tester just out of curiosity and apparently it fried something? Fusible link? As soon as I plugged in the tester I heard a bunch of beeps and ticks in the engine bay, (Assuming testing all the connections and components) Anyways nothing popped up on the reader, figured I was good to go. Went for a drive and notice all my gauges stopped working at the same time. The truck still fires up and everything, just no warning lights or gauges. I have checked all the fuses (under the dash and in the engine bay). Swapped out the instrument cluster to see if that fixed anything, nothing. Even tried a different ECM, still nothing. Has anyone gone through this before? Can anyone tell me where a fusible link would be regarding this type of issue?

Also to add on to the gauges, When I turn the ignition on no gauges move besides the voltage. The needle just flicks once and stays before the 8 volt mark.
Doing a EEC test shouldnt fry anything lol.

Do any of your other cab electronics seem screwy?
 
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@MuchCody
Check the OBD¹ connector sockets and the tester for residue, particulate matter or contaminants.
 
@MuchCody
Anytime that I perform and operation and an unexpected, undesirable result occurs...I look at the operation first and the parts/components involved. In this case you plugged in an OBD1 reader, the parts are the reader and the harness connector. Give the harness a thorough look over, do some wiggling with the key in the run (not start) position, listen to hear relays opening and closing. They shouldn't change states from moving or wiggling wires.
 
I haven't used one of these, but I have heard of some cheap OBD1 scanners that had no batteries, and got their power from the fuel pump pin in the test port - one of those wired incorrectly (or plugged in wrong somehow, or using a chevy to ford adapter from china) could drop power into the computer pins... might I ask what scanner tool you were using - any adapter cables?
 
I haven't used one of these, but I have heard of some cheap OBD1 scanners that had no batteries, and got their power from the fuel pump pin in the test port - one of those wired incorrectly (or plugged in wrong somehow, or using a chevy to ford adapter from china) could drop power into the computer pins... might I ask what scanner tool you were using - any adapter cables?
My fuel pump still works.
Anyways this is the one I used, https://www.amazon.ca/INNOVA-3145-F...2007543&sprefix=Ford+OBD1,aps,285&sr=8-5&th=1
 
well that's a good gauge, I doubt it would hurt the fuel pump, all those cheaper scanners do is "borrow" some power to run themselves (no batteries).
 
I doubt the scanner itself is the problem. Sounds like it was doing exactly what's expect when started. (I have the same one.) Anything old enough to use OBD1 is old enough for brittle wiring. I'd bet something broke, probably in the area of the test connector. Hard to even hazard a guess without seeing it. I will say that the underhood fuse box is right there...
 

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