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no compression


You arnt going to lose 6 exhaust seats all at once and smoke the valves too.

If you had bent valves you either A) Jumped time or B) have some very very odd cam/oil circulation issue.

Im guessing all the top end damage was a result of what failed in the first place and now youve fixed the result without addressing the issue.

Basically you still have the original issue going on.

I think youre gonna have to dig deeper then the heads to figure this out.
Sorry after misreading i see you said the valves wernt bent
 
Sheared cam pin or crank key... It will look in time when you rotates because the gears are moving and the crank or cam is not...
 
I would pull the rocker shafts and spark plugs. Run another compression test. If numbers are good... cam timing is correct.

Like I said in your other thread you started your push rods are to long.

Because the valves are non adjustable... push rod length is critical.
 
Actually... removing the shafts would not tell you cam timing is correct. You would have to do some physical checks for that.
 
we pulled the timing cover and the cam gear and crank gear are in place and in time-he was driving down the road and it died-his uncle told him it had 20 pounds of compression so the heads were pulled and found to be bad-the machine shop said they were cracked also so a BRAND NEW set of head were installed along with a NEW oil pump and Ford lifters-it started and ran about ten seconds and died again and no compression-the only thing they haven't changed is the cam and crank sensors.-Some one some where has had to have had the same problem-it seems like the lifters are pumping up full and holding the valves open but no one can understand how that can happen-he would sure appreciate some advice
 
we pulled the timing cover and the cam gear and crank gear are in place and in time-he was driving down the road and it died-his uncle told him it had 20 pounds of compression so the heads were pulled and found to be bad-the machine shop said they were cracked also so a BRAND NEW set of head were installed along with a NEW oil pump and Ford lifters-it started and ran about ten seconds and died again and no compression-the only thing they haven't changed is the cam and crank sensors.-Some one some where has had to have had the same problem-it seems like the lifters are pumping up full and holding the valves open but no one can understand how that can happen-he would sure appreciate some advice
Cam and crank sensors would have no bearing on what you got going on.

So the valves are staying open all the time on every cylinder? Are you sure about this? The springs are always compressed?

I really see no possible way for that to happen even if it were out of time. Unless like i said you have the wrong lifters or pushrods.
 
If you think it was oil pressure related("pumped up lifters") then engine should re-start after being off for a few minutes, does it?
Lifters drain oil pretty fast as anyone knows when they have "ticky" lifters, lol, always "tick" on re-start until oil pressure goes up

Yes, valve covers need to come off and you need to check the pre-load on the lifters
Its certainly possible that engine is loosing compression once lifters are "properly" filled, if pre-load is too much
That would be pushrod length issue to correct
 
If you think it was oil pressure related("pumped up lifters") then engine should re-start after being off for a few minutes, does it?
Lifters drain oil pretty fast as anyone knows when they have "ticky" lifters, lol, always "tick" on re-start until oil pressure goes up

Yes, valve covers need to come off and you need to check the pre-load on the lifters
Its certainly possible that engine is loosing compression once lifters are "properly" filled, if pre-load is too much
That would be pushrod length issue to correct
why would it start doing it at 140 thousand miles? and the replacement lifters are usa made not chinese-it has every one baffled here and there a quite a few good mechanics-I myself started in a chevy dealership when I was 17 and am 65 now and cannot explain it-the push rod length makes sense but they are the original ones and I don't think ford makes a shorter one and why did it die driving down the road and only start twice since-both time until the oil pressure built
 
okay-here's the deal-My cousin has a 2000 4.0 ranger that quit while driving down the road-a compression test showed it had less than 20 pounds of pressure so the heads were pulled and the exhaust valves were beat down in the head about 1/8 of an inch
There's something else going on here.

He's driving down the road no problems and the engine quits.

Compression test shows 20 psi

Heads pulled and exhaust valves recessed 1/8"

No way did all the exhaust valves get recessed at the same time enough to cause this,

Or engine was running very bad and he just kept driving until it died.


Is it possible for camshaft sprocket to spin on camshaft/ or crankshaft gear to spin on crankshaft with this engine? so it still looks like cam timing is correct
 
Cam and crank sensors would have no bearing on what you got going on.

So the valves are staying open all the time on every cylinder? Are you sure about this? The springs are always compressed?

I really see no possible way for that to happen even if it were out of time. Unless like i said you have the wrong lifters or pushrods.
h
 
There's something else going on here.

He's driving down the road no problems and the engine quits.

Compression test shows 20 psi

Heads pulled and exhaust valves recessed 1/8"

No way did all the exhaust valves get recessed at the same time enough to cause this,

Or engine was running very bad and he just kept driving until it died.


Is it possible for camshaft sprocket to spin on camshaft/ or crankshaft gear to spin on crankshaft with this engine? so it still looks like cam timing is correct
both gears were checked and both are in place-where do the lifters bleed off to?
 
Put the engine on TDC number one. Both valves should be completely closed. Place and zero a dial indicator on either intake or exhaust valve retainer. Loosen the rocker shaft. If indicator moves... this will indicate that the pushrods are too long. The distance the dial moves will give you the number you will have to subtract from your current push rod length.

The difference in length could be caused by several things. Head casting differences... head gasket thickness... valve stem installed height... etc... it all adds up and can certainly make a difference.

The reason it ran was because until the lifter was completely pumped up... the valves closed. Once fully pumped up... the push rods are holding the valves open.
 
Put the engine on TDC number one. Both valves should be completely closed. Place and zero a dial indicator on either intake or exhaust valve retainer. Loosen the rocker shaft. If indicator moves... this will indicate that the pushrods are too long. The distance the dial moves will give you the number you will have to subtract from your current push rod length.

The difference in length could be caused by several things. Head casting differences... head gasket thickness... valve stem installed height... etc... it all adds up and can certainly make a difference.

The reason it ran was because until the lifter was completely pumped up... the valves closed. Once fully pumped up... the push rods are holding the valves open.
there is only one length pushrod available for this engine
 

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