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Newbie here...


Lisa, this is just my opinion, but the quote seems to be a little high.

Use the link that @don4331 posted. I put the middle middle "standard" radiator (Spectra) in a cart and used the ZIP on your quote to see that that radiator would cost you around $160 shipped to your door. What the shop quoted you for a radiator is close to the "premium" all-aluminum (Koyorad) radiator.

It's a 22 year old truck. A good standard replacement radiator should cost a lot less, and it sounds like you're best bet is to get your truck repaired, as cost effectively as you can, and well enough to correct the cooling system for several more years of dependability. And, you can't be sure which kind of radiator the shop will actually install.

Labor in the quote doesn't look to list estmated hours, but $400 in labor to change a radiator seems too high.

Two thoughts, or suggestions, if I may:

#1- See how your repair does before committing to a shop repairing it and having to pay that kind of money.
If it were summer...I'd consider it.
If you can get the truck through this winter, you may find that you're in a better situation, or even feel like changing the radiator yourself come Spring.

#2- Check around to see if there are any independent mobile mechanics in your area. These are mechanics that will come to you and work on your car, and others on here have used this kind of service with satisfactory results. You may find someone who will install your parts for a more reasonable labor charge (they have less overhead). You could try looking on google, or heaven forbid, in a phone book.

Just hoping to give you some possible more options (and encouragement).

Good luck!
 
@Jo-Riley
I recommend checking for leaks with tap water.

Also, once full, I run the engine with the front end elevated to get all the excess air out for 4 complete thermostat cycles (from below normal engine temp to normal engine temp 4 times).

If no leaks, it is a good time to flush the system. After that I drain it completely, add 1 gallon of 100% coolant, then fill it while burping again with the distilled water...DONE

I do not exist to question a professional's estimate; however if the mechanic is using an all aluminum 2" thick, 2 core explorer radiator, it is reasonable. If the mechanic is using a $69.99 K-mart special...then I would purchase my own radiator and pay their $400 in labor.
 
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$279 is all aluminum 2 core, 2" Explorer
$69.99 is cheapest plastic core market
 

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Is the 69.99$ one for my truck? Would it be ok to use?
Do I need to buy hoses also or is this everything Included?
That's where I get a bit lost.
I am looking at the repair like I would see a recipe
What ingredients are needed? Which what items should be new?
You wrote the directions pretty well. Thank you I will print that message.
I hate asking so much. I'm actually learning about the cooling system.
A crack =no pressure=no coolant flow
Don't just look at reservoir look at radiator while cool.
I've always checked my oil every 2-400 miles...was never told to watch coolant.
Please don't be mad but the coolant has been the same since 2027 and still checks out at -40°
Is that supposed to get changed regularly like the oil?
Thank you
 
So long as you have coolant in the radiator, you won't have an overheating issue. (Remove radiator cap when cold, fluid should be right there). Wipe up the coolant that has leaked so you can determine if it is still leaking and how fast.

Aside: Not much cooling needs to happen through the radiator when driving on hi-way in Minnesota this time of year. Way back in the day, I put a rock through the radiator of my Dodge Omni. We drove 200+ miles after without even noticing - only when we got into city did we have a problem. (Which wasn't helped by clutch throw out bearing failing at same time). Once radiator was replaced, the car ran fine for 3 more years that I had the car.​
I'm not sure if there is a crack where the fan shroud bolt to rad. If there isn't any green coolant higher than that point, I suspect that is your issue. (hopefully, you can locate what I have blown up in the bigger picture.

View attachment 101187
I'm wondering if this is where I found the leak. 🤔
 
Just checked JB weld. Heating pad is still warm. It's not hardened yet. Checked coolant level in radiator with the baby baster used to test temp level. Nothing😞😞
No funny smell when I parked in the garage. So maybe my engine is still ok?
Gonna walk downtown to get antifreeze soon ...I'll add it then do I start the motor or do I let it sit a bit to move to hoses. I feel so stupid asking these questions...🥺
 
@Jo-Riley
I recommend checking for leaks with tap water.

Also, once full, I run the engine with the front end elevated to get all the excess air out for 4 complete thermostat cycles (from below normal engine temp to normal engine temp 4 times).

If no leaks, it is a good time to flush the system. After that I drain it completely, add 1 gallon of 100% coolant, then fill it while burping again with the distilled water...DONE

I do not exist to question a professional's estimate; however if the mechanic is using an all aluminum 2" thick, 2 core explorer radiator, it is reasonable. If the mechanic is using a $69.99 K-mart special...then I would purchase my own radiator and pay their $400 in labor.
4 times? So I won't be going anywhere in my truck this evening? Maybe it'll be ready to drive tomorrow? I better bust to move!
Off to get antifreeze
 
Is the 69.99$ one for my truck? Would it be ok to use?

Yes, it should fit and work. In general, it used to be that a part's cost was pretty much directly related to the materials and processes used to make it. The last few years, though, it seems that replacement parts quality has really gone downhill, and the prices have gone up. I'm afraid that it's sort of a gamble; the lowest cost replacement part may help when the budget is tight, and it should work as advertised to get your truck back in service, but it may not hold up as long as a more expensive one.

Do I need to buy hoses also or is this everything Included?

If they look bad (cracks in the rubber, "squishy" spots), definitely. But if they're still original, or age unknown, it would be a good idea to replace them anyway as preventative maintenance.

Please don't be mad but the coolant has been the same since 2027 and still checks out at -40°
Is that supposed to get changed regularly like the oil?

The short answer is yes, generally every 2 years (reccommended change interval is probably in your owners manual). Antifreeze breaks down over time and can cause corrosion in the cooling system.

Don't be worried over asking questions.
 
Yes, it should fit and work. In general, it used to be that a part's cost was pretty much directly related to the materials and processes used to make it. The last few years, though, it seems that replacement parts quality has really gone downhill, and the prices have gone up. I'm afraid that it's sort of a gamble; the lowest cost replacement part may help when the budget is tight, and it should work as advertised to get your truck back in service, but it may not hold up as long as a more expensive one.



If they look bad (cracks in the rubber, "squishy" spots), definitely. But if they're still original, or age unknown, it would be a good idea to replace them anyway as preventative maintenance.



The short answer is yes, generally every 2 years (reccommended change interval is probably in your owners manual). Antifreeze breaks down over time and can cause corrosion in the cooling system.

Don't be worried over asking questions.
Thank you
Just filled antifreeze. Started it up...I missed a spot with JB weld 😞
Saw seeping start withing 2 minutes...I'm beyond frustrated.
A few minutes before that a text came from my son. "Mom don't watch the news " that's it...he's deployed now since October. Not his first rodeo...so I go on autopilot when he's deployed...now all this is hitting me. I need to take a break right now. I'm overwhelmed. Thank you so much for all the info on here.
♥️
 
Hang in there.


We had a member join a few months back, a lady if my memory serves... who was just about at the end of her rope concerning her ranger and all the money and time and tears she had been shedding trying to get the damn thing running.. chasing all kinds of problems..

It took a little bit.. but with the help and advice she got from the folks here she finally got the truck operating as it should and was beyond elated when she came back to tell us of her victory.


The weight will be off your shoulders sooner or later, just stick with it.
 
$279 is all aluminum 2 core, 2" Explorer
$69.99 is cheapest plastic core market
The cheaper one says manual transmission. My truck is automatic.
I will need to buy one on Amazon. I have some c
I'm sorry; take a break from things for a while.
i will order a radiator from Amazon. I have 50$ credit on there. After my bills I have less than $200 this month. Food, etc...I had a huge hospital bill to pay before surgery 11/30...I may have to cancel now. I need rest to think logically. I've been crying for an hour over my son, my truck and after waiting 2 years for eye surgery...that
Thank you for understanding. My blood pressure is much too high currently...I have no choice but to stop now.
♥️
 
Hang in there.


We had a member join a few months back, a lady if my memory serves... who was just about at the end of her rope concerning her ranger and all the money and time and tears she had been shedding trying to get the damn thing running.. chasing all kinds of problems..

It took a little bit.. but with the help and advice she got from the folks here she finally got the truck operating as it should and was beyond elated when she came back to tell us of her victory.


The weight will be off your shoulders sooner or later, just stick with it.
I know it'll lighten up...right now I need to stop. Not quit. Just stop. My blood pressure is much too high. Thank you.
 

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