new to the 2.9 - couple questions

[FirstRanger86]

I'll admit I went right to the v8 swap section, but I got this 2.9 (2wd, auto) 86 Ranger at an auction, cheap. It isn't in half bad shape. I don't want to put a ton of money into it, but if I could get it running, I would tune it up and use it as-is.

I paid $25 at the junkyard for a new battery, and it doesn't start, but it does crank. There is spark, because one spark plug wire was broken, and arcing to the manifold. Even on 7 cylinders, it wouldnt fire. From inside the cab, I can't hear if the fuel pump is kicking on. A label under the hood talks about a shut-off switch.

Where should I take off the fuel line to see if it's pumping? Will it pump with key turned to "on?"
Also, if I'm not getting fuel, and it sat (empty tank at least) for a long time, is there more than one pump (low pressure/high pressure)? Which one to begin with? On my old Jeep Comanche, I can change the fuel pump while the tank is on the truck. Same deal here?

I'm just trying to figure out a way to get her started without spending a fortune, to find out that maybe the transmission is shot, or the engine needs a rebuild....any advice on how to proceed?

Thanks a ton for reading--

Tom

 

[FirstRanger86]

PS- if there are any online shop manual links, I'd really appreciate it.
PSS- how the heck to you swap out a distributor cap?? Looks tight in there!

 

[kunar]

Welcome! First, the shutoff switch is on the floor/firewall on the passenger side. They are a somewhat common failure, pretty easy to bypass to test though. Double check that the connector and wiring is in good shape. Second, no reason to take off a fuel line to check for pressure. There's a schrader fitting on the fuel rail. Any standard fuel pressure gauge should hook up there just fine. Third, fuel pumps. Yes, there's two. One in tank (low pressure) and one on the drivers side frame rail. You can replace the high pressure one on the frame rail pretty easy. The one in the tank requires either dropping the tank or pulling the bed. I would check for power at either connector before buying a pump. There's 2 relays (eec and fuel pump) that may cause a no fuel pressure issue. Theyre both cheaply/easily available from the parts places, but you can pretty easily jump them out for testing purposes. A Hayne's/Chilton's style manual is available free from Autozone.com. Gotta sign up for the service, but its all there for free. The distributor cap and rotor aren't bad either. Yeah, it's a little tight, but do-able. No need for special tools or anything, just gotta get in there and do it.

 

[RonD]

If you hear the fuel pump when the key is first turned on then it is working normally.

It runs for a few seconds each time the key is cycled on, to prime the fuel system.

Common failing in the Ranger is the fuel pump relay, it is locate on the passenger fender well, it is the Green relay.
If should click when the key is turned on.
There is a Brown relay next to it, that is the ECC relay, it turns on the fuel pump relay and several other things, so if its bad ..........it should click when key is turned on as well

No, the fuel pump doesn't stay on, will come back on when engine is running.

You can cycle the key on and off a few times to get pressure in the fuel rail, then test it via the schrader valve(like a tire valve), but be careful it can squirt along way.

I would spray some starting fluid into the intake and see if it fires first.

 

[dave2575]

+1 kunar and RonD. And to add a little more about priming the fuel system, If your fuel tank goes empty and you have to put gas in the tank you will have to prime the fuel system. It will take a little while for the fuel to get pumped through the entire fuel system (primed). So you cant just put some gas in and expect it to start right away. To prime the system you have to put enough gas in the tank to pump it through the system (1-2 gallons. trust me on that!) and then turn on the the ignition (key on but not starting) and listen for the HP fuel pump to turn on for a few seconds and then it will turn off on its own, then turn off the ignition and wait a couple seconds, try to listen for a relay under the hood to click off (2-3 seconds after the key is turned off), and then repeat the process(cycle) over and over tell the system is primed (try starting it every few cycles). it takes my truck at least a dozen or more cycles to get it to prime and eventually start. It might take your truck less time to prime because my truck also has two fuel tanks, three fuel pumps, and four fuel filters to go through before it will prime.

 

[FirstRanger86]

Thanks for all the great responses, guys.
First, I definitely need to put more gas in it!
I found the inertia switch, hit the reset button, just in case. I will check it with key on to make sure there's 12 volts coming out of it.

I have a buddy coming over this weekend, I will listen for the fuel pump hum, and the relay click. I always have a can of ether ready to go. I was under the hood briefly, in the rain, yesterday, and noticed a completely broken middle left (#2 or 4) spark plug wire. I'll dig up a spare and see if I can't get her running.

If she runs at all half decent, I don't mind dropping the money on belts, hoses, plugs, wires, filters, etc. Just intimidated by the EFI a bit...never had a vehicle that wasn't carbureted or TBI! Yeah, one of those guys....

 

[RonD]

EFI is a learning curve, I too grew up with carbs and distributors.
I own a few feeler gauge sets(for points) and a dwell meter, lol.

Fuel injection on its own is better than a carb, it's that darn computer and all the sensors that muck things up

This a a good link to bookmark when learning EFI and the sensors that muck them up
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=1

 

[FirstRanger86]

It lives.

I put a couple more gallons of gas in it, turned the key on and off, hearing the hum, and the relay click several times, and boom -- she turned over, and ran. The brake system has no pressure, but I was able to go forward and backwards, so looks like the tranny works, at a minimum.

Went on rockauto and ordered all new belts, hoses, thermostat, air fuel, tranny, and oil filters, spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I can't wait to get her running WELL, figure out what's up with the brakes, and take her for a spin!

I will keep everyone posted...looks like the parts will get to me around 4JUN.

Thanks again for great information.

 

[jhammel85]

Glad to hear it!

 

[dave2575]

 

[FirstRanger86]

Update:
Well, it couldn't have been as easy as start her up and go!

I replaced all the tune up parts: belts, hoses, plugs, cap, thermostat, rotor, fuel and air filters, oil, flushed the antifreeze out, fixed a chewed ground wire.

Started RIGHT up, sounded good, ran on cold/high idle for about 45 seconds, slowed to normal idle ...then stalled -- and wouldn't start again.

I go get 4 more gallons of gas, pour it in, ten minutes later, it starts right up, does the same as last time, I give it some gas to keep it running for a minute or two, then it eventually dies.

I go and get my OBD1/2 reader, plug it in (never used it for OBD1 before), start it up, warm it the best I can, shut it down, and it does the key on/off diagnositics and gives me code 31: EGR valve sensor. That's it.

Starts right up cold, runs for a minute, dies, won't start again until you give it ten minutes, then starts right up again......lather, rinse, repeat. Would the EGR valve sensor cause that issue? When I rev it, it revs, no problem, doesn't seem to be starving for fuel...anyone got any suggestions? I appreciate you guys following this along with me.

tom

 

[FirstRanger86]

I should add that I used the scanner since i can't find a check engine light on my dash....bulb out, removed, wire cut...whichever...

 

[adsm08]

86 probably came without the bulb.

The EGR sensor won't cause your issue, but a valve open when it shouldn't be could. It would also set that code.

Find the green vacuum line and unhook it. See if it runs.

 

[FirstRanger86]

I will give that a try, thanks. It started pouring last night and is supposed to continue until tomorrow morning here on the east coast, so I'll have to wait to test it out.

 

[FirstRanger86]

OK so I got curious, and the rain let up a little before I went to work.

I pulled the green vacuum line and it made some difference. It started right up, ran at high idle, then slowly came down to idle...when it began to stall, it would kick its idle back up to keep running, I didn't have to give it gas. It eventually did stall, but this time would start right back up, only to stall again. I didn't have a golf tee or plug, so maybe the vacuum leak from disconnecting the line was the cause? Would you recommend disconnecting the battery, changing the EGR valve, then re-running key on-key off diagnostics?

Thanks
Tom