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new to the 2.9 - couple questions


I can't help with your last question but can say that the 86's came stock without a cel light and IIRC don't have a place for them. I almost failed a salvage inspection but was able to convince the inspector by showing him a thread on this forum.

Richard
 
Update:
OK, now I've started doing something I didn't want to do with this truck -- throwing parts at it.

I have a buddy, he used to live around the corner, he's a Ford factory trained tech. Good guy, I don't really want to bug him, but I ran it by him.

He said "when it's stalling, are you losing fuel or spark?" Put an inline spark tester on and cranked it, sure enough, had spark. I then key on/key offed it to try and build fuel pressure, and it barely leaked out when I pushed the pin on the Schrader valve. So, no fuel, apparently. He told me to test the 2 wires at the inertia switch, neither had power, so he suggested the fuel pump relay, which I replaced. Still starts right up, may even run a little longer when I hold the pedal down, but when it eventually stalls, it won't restart, until I give it 10-15 minutes.

I guess it could be the fuel pump, but why does it start and rev at 2000 rpm for a couple of minutes, and when I let it try to idle, it dies and doesn't restart? And then restart after a couple minutes of wait time?
Doesn't make sense. Anybody got any ideas? REALLY hate to pull the fuel pump(s) before knowing that's what's wrong.

I'm going to head to Autozone to rent a fuel pressure gauge and see if I can figure out what's happening with fuel pressure.

Thanks
Tom
 
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There is no power at the inertia switch unless PCM has activated the fuel pump.
So inertia switch would have power only when key is first turned on, for 1 or 2 seconds, and then when the PCM activates the fuel pump based on RPM and TPS(throttle position sensor).

Yes, fuel pump relay is a common issue with Rangers.

This relay is controlled by the PCM, via grounding not 12v, so PCM grounds the relay to send power to the inertia switch/fuel pump.

The light blue/orange wire should be that grounding wire running to the PCM.......http://www.therangerstation.com/tec...es/Diagrams_ElectronciEngControls2_9_1of3.JPG
If you were to pierce this wire with a pin and then hooked a test light to it and a 12v power source, you would be able to monitor if the PCM is turning on(grounding) the fuel pump relay.
test light should come on when key is turned on, as should the fuel pump, for 1 or 2 seconds to test if its working.


I mention this because while testing the fuel pressure it would be nice to monitor the PCM turning on and off the fuel pump.
If pressure drops after running engine a bit but PCM is still turning on the pump then I would say fuel pump or its check valve is the issue.
If PCM stops turning on the fuel pump then PCM could be the problem OR a sensor is not telling the PCM engine needs more fuel.
 
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Ron-
Thanks for the suggestion. When I get a hand, I will test that wire; between that and the fuel pressure gauge, should narrow things down.
 
All good stuff from Ron. This is what I was going to reccomend.

Can you get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge? It'd be nice to see what's happening as it dies. If it drops, You'll know where to start.

Now it's just time to find out which pump (if it's pre 89) I'm sure that someone will chime in and let you know how you would know which one.
 
Well, had some time and a friend who is an electronics wiz yesterday.
Got a fuel pump diagnostics kit - rented from Autozone. It had a fitting that was a "Ford Schrader Valve adapter" for the gauge, which was not deep enough to work properly - maybe for more late-model Fords. However, the first thing I learned is that my gas is like varnish, when I pushed the pin down with a screwdriver. I thought the truck was completely empty, but now realize that the sending unit is inop. So the 3-4 gallons of good gas I put in are in with who-knows-how-much BAD gas.

My friend went to work with the relay as I keyed it on and off, and started/ran it. He expected the lt.blue/orange wire, which had 12 volts in circuit with key on and running, to ground out once the car started...but he wasn't sure how the system worked, so he said "that may be normal." In clowning around with it, it actually ran and idled for longer than it has to date, just by dumb luck.

My friend suggested I go after the fuel filter(s) first, put some fuel injector cleaner in, and some more good gas, and see what happens. It's probably a good place to start. I ordered 2 filters off of rock auto. I've seen a lot of debate online about how many filters these 86's have. I saw the canister for sure, I didn't immediately see an inline filter. Can anyone say, definitively, that there were 2 in 1986?


Thanks for all the thoughts.
Tom
 
It more than likely has "two" but only the inline is normally replaced. I've seen some of the canisters never stop leaking or have no filter inside to begin with.

I would replace the inline 1st. If you look up the frame rail, Beside the driverside of the motor, You'll see it.

Also, I know gas is expensvive and you just put some in but you should really dump all of the gas you have in that tank and clean it out. That old gas will continue to gum everything up. I think that's your problem all along.
 
Working on it. Siphoned MOST (I think) of the gas (and a lot of rust) out of the tank this weekend. I found the inline filter; how does it come out? Do I need a tool to get the fuel lines off of it? I didn't really get a good look at it, I need to get the truck up on some jack stands.
 
Update:
I started her after siphoning, so there's still some fuel in there. I have to jack the truck up from the passenger side, and see if I can get any more out.

I spent an hour yesterday replacing the fuel filters. I can confirm that this 86 had TWO of them. One inline, as the driver's frame rail turns up, and the canister type, just under the driver's door on the inside of the frame rail. Both were rusty and a mess. Let's hope that it will hold idle now! It certainly won't hurt.
 
And theirs a filter inside the tank on the fuel pump assy. When you say both filters were rusty and a mess do you mean the actual filters, or just rusty and messy on the outside of the housing's? If you have rust inside on both filters you might want to drop the tank and have it cleaned and it wouldn't hurt to soak the injectors in a solvent as well.
 
I meant the outside; I didn't open them up. When I siphoned the fuel, it was pretty clear, some rust particles from the bottom, but it wasn't mud. Just smelled like varnish.


WELL, I put 10 fresh gallons and a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in yesterday, charged the battery overnight, and went for the startup today. Took awhile to get the fuel system primed. When it finally started, it revved up to fast idle, stayed there for maybe 10 seconds, dropped down, and died. I was able to restart it, but never keep it running. It maintained a really low, weak idle for a bit that didn't respond to me giving it throttle, and wasn't enough to move the truck when I put it in gear.

I'm really perplexed now..it ran better with the bad gas and dirty fuel filters! lol

I checked the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and it actually sprayed fuel out when I hit the pin. Before I changed out the filters, it would only dribble out.

Maybe I should re-visit fuel pressure. The gauge I borrowed from Autozone included a fitting that said "Ford" on it, but it wasn't nearly deep enough to push the Schrader valve pin, so it wouldn't read pressure.

Anyone got any ideas? I got that code 31 a while back when playing with the OBD...any chance that could cause a no-start, or stumbling/stalling condition?
 
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How did you change the canister one? did it twist apart with a filter inside or just a screen?
 
How did you change the canister one? did it twist apart with a filter inside or jwst a screen?

It was pretty easy. There's a plate over it, so I took that off first.I unscrewed it, counter-clockwise, with a big pair of channel locks. Its an actual filter, not a screen. I bought both filters from rockauto.com, and they were both correct to replace what was on the truck. I just wish it would run now!

Where in NJ are you?
 
OK, I'm kind of stuck where I was last week. My ex-neighbor is a Ford tech, and he hasn't been around lately, but recommended I change the TFI, since they are a "common problem." I hate throwing parts at it, but I got a great deal on RockAuto, so I bought a KEM TFI unit.

Questions on swapping it: what size socket do I use for the countersunk screws that hold it on? Also, I see the new TFI has 6 blades on the side, where the harness plugs in, and (I think, it's not in front of me) 3 more blades facing up against the distributor. Is that another harness, or does it slide up into the distributor?

Thanks--
Tom
 

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