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new to the 2.9 - couple questions


The screw is a 5.5. Go spend the $4 for the ford tfi tool at the parts store. Totally worth it. I own about 5.

The 3 blades on top slide into a sensor inside the dis. It is 'really easy to just undo the screws and slip it in and out.

Postin' from teh Galaxy
 
OK, swapped the TPI, got the tool and that was embarrassingly easy. Sorry.

So, the results: Started right up after re-connecting the battery, ran at high idle, dropped down to idle and stayed there for a couple minutes. After about a minute, began to stumble, but the computer picked up the revs and kept it running. Ran for about three minutes without me giving it any throttle, then died.

Restart was hard, but I got it going, and kept my foot on the gas and revved it at about 2000-2500rpm (no tach). Kept it there about 4-5 minutes, thermostat opened, reached normal operating temp (per gauge) for the first time. Sounded good, no weird noises, and smooth. I wish I had thought to hook up my OBD1 reader before, and running the test while the engine was on.

It died, boom, just stopped. Couldn't re-start. Gave up. Did the OBD1 KOEO test, and got the same code 31.

I'm stumped. The fuel pump seems to be getting adequate supply to rev it for 5 minutes at 2500RPM. The TFI is new, the fuel pump relay is new, gas and filters are new.

I know I've gone out of order in trying to diagnose this problem, and have threw parts at it. What would someone recommend as the next step, at this point?


I'd appreciate ANY advice.

Thanks.
 
My favorite, because I say so often, is get a can of starting fluid(ether).
When there is a no start, pull off a larger vacuum hose from the intake, PCV hose, or power brake hose are good.
Spray some starting fluid in the intake, connect hose back up and try to start.
If it fires and dies fuel is the issue
If it doesn't fire then spark is the issue
 
I did try that, and it does start and die. But I hear the pumps turn on with key on. I have pressure (spray) at the rail; I guess the question is: when the truck warms a bit, are the fuel pumps continuing to run as the engine cranks/ runs? The ECM should now be getting the proper signal with the new TFI (if it wasn't before).
 
Find the green line going to the EGR valve, unplug it and block it off. See if that helps.
 
Thanks; I will try that tomorrow. I was scanning around before and noticed that the red wire to the vacuum solenoid (?) on the passenger firewall - where the green vacuum line to the EGR originates -- was mouse-chewed. I fixed the wire, it had 11.4 volts with key on, engine didn't run any better. I unhooked the negative cable to (I hope) erase code 31, and see if there is a change. Then I'll try disco'ing that green vacuum.

:icon_cheers:
 
Ok, got an important piece of information today, not sure what to do with it. Still got code 31 even with 12 volts to the vacuum solenoid. Didnt run any better with egr disconnected.
Most relevant, I got a working fuel pressure gauge. Started right up, pressure held at 30 psi for about 75 seconds. It then began to slowly drop, and as it got lower, the engine picked up idle to try to keep running, and it finally stalled somewhere under 6-8. I did key on-off to build pressure in the rail to about 16, it started, but never went over that 16 or so, dropped down, and stalled. Did this a couple more times, always the same thing.
Are my pumps shutting down? What would do that?
Is a pump bad? Which one?
Why does it work fine when ice cold and start after warming up a tiny bit?

Getting closer...I think!

Thanks for all the help...please help me get there
Tom
 
It sounds like you're getting there. It might be a pump but Honestly, I don't know how to tell which one is the culprit. You can turn the key on, engine off and hear them both buzz right? Not just one?

To diagnose if one is faulty, dead or noisey, you can jump the Fuel Pump Test Connector on the OBD1 plug in the engine bay with another port on the plug. This will allow them to run as long as the key is on. It might be the output that has power? I'm not 100% sure which one it is without my book with me.

The reason I know it works is because the previous owner of my truck had these two wires spliced together instead of allowing the relays to click the fuel pumps off with the key on, engine off......ugh...You can get underneath and listen to the High Pressure Pump and remove the cap to listen to the Low Pressure Pump off the tank.

Here's a diagram of your fuel pump port on said plug if you want to test the plug for power to see who has power so you can power those pumps:

2-53e33ec61c.jpg


I hope this helps!
 
Last edited:
Thanks!
I am getting there, slowly but surely. I'm going to replace the high-pressure pump. First, because it's easy (compared with in-tank), and second because as pressure drops, it starts to make noise. It could be the low pressure pump that's failing, I just don't know how to tell the difference.

If the high pressure pump doesn't fix it, I'll pull the bed and do the other pump (and the sending unit, since it doesn't seem to work).

How does the two pump system work, anyway? Does the low pressure pump prime the system, then the high pressure pump takes over? Do both pumps run the entire time the truck is running?
 
Wait, It's making noise when it starts to die? Does it sound like rocks, basically? Sounds like low flow to the pump.

I bet anything that it is the intank. It comes with a sender to fix your gauge too if it's still intermittent. You might be able to disconnect the plug on high pressure pump and see if the low flow even makes it to the rails or it might make it and drop off, confirming that it's dying. It won't be enough to run the truck but perhaps it'll be enough to help you confirm! Try to single those suckers out!
 
Thanks Jhammel and Pete. Turns out Jhammel was right. Low pressure pump kicked it. Took off the bed and replaced it...runs! Now have to chase down all the error codes it's kicking out (see new thread)!
 
Awesome! Glad to hear it. How did you eventually single out the bad pump? Did you unplug the high pressure pump?
 

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