New to me ranger, What would you have paid???

[mjstef]

Well i drove to the next population center east of me 475 miles round trip yesterday to pick this up. Rust free, (no salt in Montana) 2001 XLT 4x4 V6 Automatic, 105,654 miles. It was advertised as needing an engine. When i got there and looked at it there was a small hole in the valve cover over the timing chain. Looks as if the cam follower or tensioner let loose. I drove it on the trailer (had no other choice when the come-a-long broke)and it ran ok with a little chain noise that i expected but no vibration or miss. Just in case, i picked up a used engine with 66,000 from a rollover for $400. Figured i could always sell it again at that price. Anyways, i'm thinking i may be able to just fix the tensioner and everything else in the timing on the front and roll until something else lets go. (gotta pull the engine to do the back guides so i will forget that for now.) Chime in on opinions of the value as is and i'll post the price later.

 

[Mcleary316]

For the fact that it had a possible dead engine I would have spent a max of like $5,000 on it. Worth around 10k in these parts with a good engine though.

 

[adsm08]

$2500, tops.

Aw, who am I kidding, I'da given him $50 less than scrap if I only had to drive 10 miles. I never pay 4 digits for a vehicle.

 

[509lifted]

that truck here with a solid motor would go for around 2000-2500 and i would have offered 1500 to start with but like adsm said i dont pay 4 digits for a truck when i could get one for 500 and have it running better than a new one with less electronics

 

[Dune Runner]

Well I bought one just like it but 2 years older and 20k more miles for $3500. But mine was in running condition. I'd say $3,000.

 

[adsm08]

I do not understand this general hatred for automotive electronics. They make everything easier to diagnose and fix, and in general make everything run and work better. You simply have to understand how the system works before you can work on it, just like everything else.

 

[6.2]

Because electronics complicate things.
Sure, maybe you can plug in a code reader and see exactly what's wrong, but if you ever run into electrical issues, it can be an absolute mess to fix if you aren't very knowledgeable in automotive wiring.

 

[mjstef]

Man, you guys must be able to find cheap rigs. Maybe so in the rust belt but all of our stuff is rust free and brings a premium. Here are some running ones. All between $7,000 & $9,000....

Used 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 SuperCab 112,000 miles

Used 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 SuperCab 136,000 miles

Used 2001 Ford Ranger XLT 100,000 miles

Used 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 SuperCab 105,000 miles

 

[adsm08]

Man, you guys must be able to find cheap rigs. Maybe so in the rust belt but all of our stuff is rust free and brings a premium. Here are some running ones. All between $7,000 & $9,000....

Let me clarify.

I will not pay 4 digits for a used car, from a private seller, and will not buy a rust bucket.

My B2 is banged up pretty bad, but is 95% rust free, the little bit that is there is just surface rust, and mostly on panels that already need replaced due to damage. Runs and drive great, paid $600.

 

[mjstef]

Let me clarify.

I will not pay 4 digits for a used car, from a private seller, and will not buy a rust bucket.

My B2 is banged up pretty bad, but is 95% rust free, the little bit that is there is just surface rust, and mostly on panels that already need replaced due to damage. Runs and drive great, paid $600.

You have the advantage of working at a dealer so that helps. One of my good friends is a service manager at a Ford store here in Montana. 2 years ago he picked up a CHERY 2002 F350 King Ranch 4x4 crew cab with a dead 7.3 in it and 102,000 miles for 7K from a guy traveling through. He had purchased a rollover at an auto auction for $3500 with 50,000 a few months before. Got $1,200 for the tranny, $1,000 for the dana 60 front and $1,500 for the interior so he had an engine for free. Stuck it in the King Ranch and flipped it for $18K $11,000 in his pocket! Not bad for a few days worth of work and again, the advantage of working for a dealer.......

In any case i have $2,000 in this rig and $400 in a used motor with 66,000 miles on it IF i need it. I should be able to get $5,500 - $7,500 out of it if i decide to sell it........

 

[adsm08]

You have the advantage of working at a dealer so that helps.

True.

That is also not to say that I won't go dumping an inordinate amount of money into a vehicle that really isn't worth it.

I have about $500 in the purchase of my truck (note to self, still owe dad $1500 for truck). I have over $2000 in unneeded upgrades to the truck, things that didn't have to happen but I wanted to do.

 

[ghost1986]

Let me clarify.

I will not pay 4 digits for a used car, from a private seller, and will not buy a rust bucket.

My B2 is banged up pretty bad, but is 95% rust free, the little bit that is there is just surface rust, and mostly on panels that already need replaced due to damage. Runs and drive great, paid $600.

What the hell, find me a deal like that!! Haha. Im over in Danville, not finding much for clean ones in my price range

 

[CarsonChris]

I find BII's for 400-500 all the time. Usually with the bad heads or a bad tranny. I paid over a grand three times for trucks. One BII I paid a 1000 for. It has some mechanical issues but a fairly flawless body and a great paint job. I paid 1200 for a 91 ranger that I think I over paid for. I also paid 1200 for a 93 ranger. Most of the ones I buy are for my kids.

 

[Masteryeti]

I have about 1500 in my ranger and that's including a set of new 31x10.50s, new clutch, manual hub conversion and the money I have put back for new front coils

 

[Andy D]

3 of my last 4 cars have cost me 600$ or less for purchase price. They had issues but all 3 drove home If you think you can flip the truck for a profit, or like it... I would fix it