new need help

[cvar]

Good that your bearings are OK. I'd suggest to clean and repack them with new grease.

As for hub usage, I think it doesn't really matter which is engaged first. Either way, it produces live front axles, driven either by hubs or by T-case. http://4x4abc.com/4WD101/hubs.html

Your T-case shift motor will need regular usage (monthly?) to prevent it from seizing. I switch mine at least every time it rains, whether I need 4x4 or not.

Have you checked the condition of your hard brake lines? Yours are about that age. Same for leaf spring hangers & the radiator support.

 

[bcraig]

re

I just decided I might as well change the inside and outside bearings and seal so i will know the condition of the components for sure.
is there a video on how to do so that applies to my truck,1996 stx extended cab 4 liter?
Thanks
Craig

 

[bcraig]

how to

I just got the Locking hubs and other pats needed to change out to the Locking hubs !
But I want to change the bearings (Inner and outer) and the seal on both sides before putting the hubs and all on.
I need to know how to get to the inner bearings to do so.
Video or link or advice how to do this?
I call myself making every kind of search I can and am unable to find information that pertains to my truck,so I dont know how to do it and dont want to guess.
Would appreciate help.
Thanks
Craig

 

[cvar]

My photos are here: http://imgur.com/a/d8skq <<< CLICK

I used a normal hammer & small punch to knock out the old bearing races. Same hammer was used to gently tap in the race, going 'round and around the edges until firmly seated. Nothing special. No tricks.

It helps to take digital photos during each step of disassembly, so you can review them during reassembly (w/o mistakes).

Watchya gonna do with the broken auto-hubs? They might make useful spare pieces for somebody. Eg, me?

 

[bcraig]

re

I appreciate the help once again.
I am going to repair the Auto hubs and then I will have an extra set in case I decide to try autos or have a breakdown with the Manuals.
Thanks
Craig

 

[bcraig]

howto remove spindle with abs sensor ?

doesn,t suprise me that I have a PITA spindle that I cant get off because of some type of obtrusion(abs sensor /)located at about 3 oclock on the spindle .
I have searched but cant find how to remove this so i can take the spindle off to replace the spindle bearings .
Any info on getting this out? I have already tried using a sliding hammer to slide over this magnet or whatever it is but no luck.
Thanks
Craig

 

[Mini-Stroke...]

doesn,t suprise me that I have a PITA spindle that I cant get off because of some type of obtrusion(abs sensor /)located at about 3 oclock on the spindle .
I have searched but cant find how to remove this so i can take the spindle off to replace the spindle bearings .
Any info on getting this out? I have already tried using a sliding hammer to slide over this magnet or whatever it is but no luck.
Thanks
Craig

Can you post up a picture of the sensor? Usually they are bolted in place tho

 

[cvar]

To remove the spindle, you need a hammer and a flat chisel that you bang into the crack all the way around the spindle. Stay away from the ABS sensor while using the chisel to slowly enlarge the crack, to separate the spindle from the steering knuckle. The sensor is bolted to the back, but I believe it doesn't need to be removed to get the spindle off. BTW, the sensor is bolted on the back side of knuckle. Yes, photos may help?

Did you look here, about half-way down? http://imgur.com/a/d8skq

 

[bcraig]

To remove the spindle, you need a hammer and a flat chisel that you bang into the crack all the way around the spindle. Stay away from the ABS sensor while using the chisel to slowly enlarge the crack, to separate the spindle from the steering knuckle. The sensor is bolted to the back, but I believe it doesn't need to be removed to get the spindle off. BTW, the sensor is bolted on the back side of knuckle. Yes, photos may help?

Did you look here, about half-way down? http://imgur.com/a/d8skq

Yes I did all that but the spindle still would not come off,even used a hub puller bot it wouldn,t budge !I ended up taking the screw(8mm)out of the back of the sensor and the hammering the sensor from the outside toward the inside of the engine compartment,after that I took a flatblade screwdriver and placed it between the nearest bolt and levered the piece that was still holding the spindle and rotor (at bout 3 oclock)to my right and was able to then take spindle off,this piece made of cast iron broke in the process but I am not going to replace it as I dont really want the abs anyway.

By the way where can I find an exploded view of the Axles so I can make sure i have all the washers and such before I put it back together?
1996 Ford Ranger 4x4 extended cab 4 liter engine.
Thanks
Craig

 

[cvar]

Look in TRS "Info-Technical" section (above).
Or else http://arrc.ebscohost.com (login with userid/pwd = tech/tech)

 

[bcraig]

re

where is the metal piece that comes with the spindle bearing kit supposed to go ?
I did not have this on the the one that came out. Not on either side.
Supposed to replace older parts or what?
Also what does the plastic washer do?
Thanks
Craig
I have replaced the spindle bearings and the races on the rotors but even with looking at schematics I dont know what to do with parts that weren,t on my truck to begin with!If it were simply a matter of the parts being identical with one part being new and replacing the old no problem but the metal piece for example is that supposed to be driven onto the short piece of axle to be used in lieu of the rubber one that was there?
I am putting it all together today if I have to gray tape and glue this POS together.
I am normally pretty good at understanding things and can follow good directions but this isn,t working for me at all.
Regret the rant ,just flustrated.
Anyway.thanks Craig

 

[cvar]

My spindle bearing kit (Timken SBK4) also had extra parts that didn't belong on my truck. That same kit happens to be used for other applications too, so it's probably cheaper for them to include all those various & sundry plastic oil slingers with their bearings rather than have a different kit for each car/truck.

I'd just replace what you had, and nothing more. Is that the ring that holds the rubber oil slinger in place on the axle shaft itself? Ford FSM says it's gotta be banged on/off with a hammer.

 

[bcraig]

re

Hi,i dont know what the ring does ,thats why I asked !LOL
I am just thinking about doing without it altogether.
I just read out of a manual (haynes )that the 4wd axles are supposed to be marked and put back in the same way !First I read about this and I didn.t mark anything just pulled the axles out of mine.
So Whats the skinny on this?
Thanks
Craig

 

[cvar]

I just read out of a manual (haynes )that the 4wd axles are supposed to be marked and put back in the same way !First I read about this and I didn.t mark anything just pulled the axles out of mine.
So Whats the skinny on this?

The Ford FSM says "The Model 35 axle dies not have a blind spline. Therefore, special attention should be made to make sure the yoke ears are in line (in phase) during assembly." THis pertains to the passenger (right) side only, not the driver's side.

BTW, there's a similar note for driveshafts too, cuz there's at least 2 U-joints in the same shaft.

 

[bcraig]

re

Goodness gracious !
And this easy,nothing to it, do it yourself mechanic work just keeps on getting easier and easier !LOL
Now that I pulled the shaft out without marking it ,how do I go about putting it back in the right way?

Thanks
Craig
After looking further at the Haynes manual I am curious if the markings for alignment ONLY need to be made IF the shaft an yoke are taken apart ?
In other words if the whole thing was taken out and only the spindle bearings were replaced and the ujoint shaft and yoke were NOT seperated would there be any reason to make the alighment marks ?
Am I missinterpreting this ?
Also it says that the metal piece I spoke of needscan be tapped off with a hammer but needs to be pressed on (machine shop)
Thanks Craig