New member please help.

[Renee1203]

I have been working on a 96 ford ranger XLT manual transmission for a while now and have replaced the pressure plate slave cylinder throw out bearing pilot bearing and bleed the system several times and it still won't go into gear please help I don't know what else to do please and thank you

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Get under the truck and check your shift linkage from the shift lever to the transmission. Maybe something is loose, bent, or jammed. At this point, if you did everything you describe right, it's probably a mechanical problem, not a hydraulic problem.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Get under the truck and check your shift linkage from the shift lever to the transmission. Maybe something is loose, bent, or jammed. At this point, if you did everything you describe right, it's probably a mechanical problem, not a hydraulic problem.

The linkage on the trans is all internal. Theres no external "shift rods" like on the old 3 speeds (and even a few 4 speeds).

 

[Renee1203]

Ok thank you

 

[Renee1203]

So I need to drop the transmission

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

So I need to drop the transmission

No.
Wont go into gear? At all? Or only when running?
The ranger trans; m5od-r1 is known to be hard to completely purge of air. It's in the design of the master and lines to the slave cylinder. It's best to bench bleed the master before installing a new one. There are several different methods of bleeding to overcome the design faults. I prefer vacuum bleeding using engine vacuum.
There could also be other problems. I've personally run into two different cases;
1) there ear on the master cylinder had cracked allowing the master to move slightly while depressing the clutch.
2) the firewall had stress cracks that allowed enough flex to affect the system when pressing the clutch.

Oh, and one that I caused when I was new to the truck. The fill reservoir has a black rubber diaphragm that if sucked all the way to the bottom looks like its integral. If you dont remove that before filling the fluid cant get to the master.

 

[Jazzer]

This might help;

Welcome Renee!

-Jazzer

 

[dvdswan]

Welcome to the site.

 

[Renee1203]

Thank you

Welcome to the site.

 

[Renee1203]

This might help;

Welcome Renee!

-Jazzer

It won't go into gear only when the truck is running, thank you, this is my first time putting in a clutch I'm very good at fixing the problem when I know what it is. LoL but I'm not very good at knowing what the problem is that needs fixing. lol

 

[Jazzer]

So it goes into all gears stopped with the clutch fully depressed?

With engine and brake off, depress the clutch pedal and see if the truck will roll freely in a gear.

-Jazzer

 

[Renee1203]

Yes the truck will roll freely, yesterday I dropped the transmission for a 3rd time I left the new clutch put the old pressure plate back on it looks pretty good I thought if I did that it would work but it didn't no matter how much I bleed the line and the master the clutch pedal will not get stiff, I have gravity bleed it bench bleed it vacuum bleed it the only thing I haven't done is change the master witch is going to be my next move, I wonder if I'm doing something wrong is there something specific you do before putting a pressure plate on I was told with a new pressure plate you should make it click one time before putting it on, is this true and if it is how would I do that and is there more then one release bearing I only ask because my clutch kit came with one and my slave cylinder was built with one on it and it's way bigger than the one that came with the kit? Thank you for taking the time to talk to me.

 

[DrWho42]

henlo! welcome to the forums!

 

[Renee1203]

Thanks

 

[Josh B]

When you swap those pressure plate and clutch you need to keep up with how much shim you need, if you got all new plates and disks you should stick with all new and no shim.

Bleeding that reservoir and slave cylinder can be the biggest pain. It is best (in my book anyhow) to pull the entire hydraulic system and gravity bleed it all together in one piece and reinstall it in one piece also. If yours is tucked in tight as mine was you are not looking at an easy job, but it IS one that will get that job done completely. Hang it from a tall ladder or something that allows it to hang freely without touching the ground and also allows you to comfortably reach the reservoir for filling as it bleeds. Work all the air bubbles out as you go,

I don't know how well you can follow that video, I'm not sure I could have found it to be complete, but if you try I first suggest looking at the material that came with your new Slave cylinder and there will likely be a paper with it discussing the bleed issue and an 800 number to call for more info. They may just explain it to you on the phone, listen very closely and follow it to a "T".

I'm thinking I detailed my last go-round with one but can't find the old threads