New member please help.

[rubydist]

That system is notoriously hard to bleed. In one case I had to give up and buy the "pre-bled" master cylinder and slave cylinder and install those in order to get it to work. I'm guessing you still have a lot of air in the system.

 

[pjtoledo]

this is how I did my 2005. the lower hose swivels at it's connector to the master.
post # 33

What would be the most likely cause of the clutch pedal suddenly losing resistance? | Page 3 | The Ranger Station

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Welcome to TRS, as mentioned, these are a PITA to bleed. Do yourself a favor and pick up a mighty vac aka vacuum bleeder.

Its like $40 bucks for a good and even less for a cheapo.

I hardly ever manually bleed anymore. Plus this thing smarter than my jackass friend pumping the pedal.

I see you are a lady? So I should probably apologize in advance for my antics, should you come across any such posts. Cheers.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

 

[rubydist]

I picked up a cheap vacuum bleeder the last time I upgraded brakes, and the Harbor Freight one I bought won't pull any vacuum at all. Its just an exercise machine for my hand. If you buy one, but a good one, not a cheap one.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

The cheap only works if you safety wire clamp all the connections together, sometimes. But yea get a good one.

 

[SenorNoob]

I had the best luck bleeding mine as follows:

Fill the reservoir as far as you can. Ignore the lines and leave the cap and rubber boot out.
Have a partner fully stroke the pedal as fast as possible (best done with right hand while crouching beside the truck) while you crack the bleeder and close it.
Rinse and repeat.

I changed my slave cylinder twice, and the line, before I realized my transmission had set long enough to have the synchronizers stick. The tell was that I could start it in gear with the clutch held down and not move. Just couldn't move the shifter.
BTW, I drove it across town in second gear before things broke loose. It was a couple weeks before it felt "normal".