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need advice removing a trans


kenwheeler

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
141
City
Harrisburg, PA
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
I want to replace the clutch on my 5 speed 88 Ranger with 4wd. Where is the hydralic fluid line connection? I gave a brief look underneath while prepping my tools, can't seem to locate it. I thought it was supposed to be on the drivers side front of the tranny. Is it possible that my connection is on top of the trans? If it is, do I drop the trans and then disconnect it?

Do I need to drop the driveshafts or can I just disconnect them and move them out of the way? How does the front driveshaft connect to the transfer case? I see the rubber boot but no yoke bolts. Are they inside the boot or can I leave the front shaft connected and let it slide out when I backout the tranny and transfer case?

I'm going to use a transmission jack so I want to remove the transmission and transfer case as a unit.

Thanks, Ken
 
If it has the M5od-r1 (not sure if they used it in 88) then it should be on the drivers side of the tranny just behind the bellhousing about six or 8 inches in front of the fill plug.

99ClutchDiagram.gif
 
you will have to disconnect the front drive shaft at the front axle. its pretty much the first thing you do. 4 alan head bolts I believe. then the whole shaft slides out of the Tcase. I would take it out because when its in the way its a huge PITA. the rear drive shaft is 4 12mm 12point bolts I believe. you can just unbolt them and push it to the side if you take off the Tcase first. Ive never pulled it all as one. the hydraulic line is black and goes right into the bellhousing. its about as thick as your pinky. cant miss it. drivers side front.
 
If it is the FM145 or 146 it is on top of the transmission. It can be removed without moving anything. It is held on by a cotter pin-type connection. Pull out the pin and the lines comes right out.
 
Thanks for help, that diagram is so much better than the grainy Haynes manual pictures. I see what you mean about moving the rear shaft, it has a carrier bearing (split driveshaft) so I'm just going to unbolt it from the trans and unbolt the carrier bearing from the crossmember. I should be able to move the shaft to the side. And I was feeling up top on the trans and felt that cotter pin for the hydralics. I thought that was too easy so it must be the wrong thing, but I'll drop the trans and get a better look before I disconnect it. Thanks again
 
my series of comments:

yank the t-case first 'cuz it weighs a ton, 5 bolts on the back of the tranny and makes the whole unit a pain to balance on the jack.

get it up enough that you are comfortable to work on your side underneath.

I have 2ea 24" extensions for my impact wrench. I used them to get the top two bolts off the bell housing from way back of the t-case. a swivel socket would help here also.

if you can avoid it, DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic system. pull the master cyl off the firewall. If you had to disconnect, do a search for the facebook instructions on how to bench bleed your sytem.

finally: keep track of the stupid ground wire on the passenger side upper bolt. BEFORE you reinstall anything, make really sure that the wire is shiney and the place where it goes is really clean and shiney too clean the bolt head also. you'll thank me later.
 
Last edited:
Where it hooks to the tranny is easier to disconnect slide the plastic ring in and and it releases the hose stays full of fluid and everything.
 
I have seen both types

If it is the FM145 or 146 it is on top of the transmission. It can be removed without moving anything. It is held on by a cotter pin-type connection. Pull out the pin and the lines comes right out.

of connections on an fm146 i have 2 of these with each a different type..if you have a large cotter pin ur lucky...if you have the white sleeve type on the side...you will need to get familiar with that as well...there are threads here about that....search "slave"...

FYI you can get that "tool" to help compress that sleeve..it usually works..it depends on who had it out last if it wasn't replaced...also it can be done with a flat blade...but the tool is easier ..
good luck
 

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