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Mylesofsmyles' Shop Truck...'85 2.3L Short Bed


An analog meter would work, a digital one would probably not show the signal very well.

Also, if you have some old wire and a light bulb around that will work as well. When I go to the junk yard I will grab some license plate light sockets every so often for use as dummy loads. They are useful and versatile.
 
Dude! I just found my old test light, just need a bulb. Great thanksgiving it is...just wish I had time to monkey with it today.
 
Damn...bulb wasn't available, so I spent $3.50 on a new test light.

As I mentioned before, I have power to the coil, in RUN position, which is good.

I put the alligator clip to my test light on BATT (+) and probed the trigger (-) side of the COIL...With the ignition off, the bulb illuminated...why is my coil getting (-) without the dizzy spinning? Also, when I complete that circuit, I hear the fuel pump prime. NO LIGHT IN RUN or while CRANKING?

Still thinking bad ignition control module?

Remember that orange wire I found? I gave that wire 12v and I heard the fuel pump relay click and fuel pump prime as well...Traced the wire back up, and it goes to a 4-pin connector between the airbox and battery...any ideas on what it could be yet?
 
Well it certainly sounds like the module isn't doing it's job.

If you completed that orange circuit and the pumps kicked on I would look into that first. A lot of critical things in that engine bay share a common power source, including the computer and fuel pump relays.

I am going to go look for my 85 wiring book. I'll be back when I find it.
 
Ok, so a ton of stuff powers up off an orange and white wire. Stick that thing to power and see if it starts.
 
Ok, so a ton of stuff powers up off an orange and white wire. Stick that thing to power and see if it starts.

I tried cranking the motor, with that orange wire to 12v (+) and still no response from ICM, when in run position.

Funny thing is, that the fuel pumps still power up, and prime, when I complete the circuit, testing ICM (alligator on batt + and probe on crank signal)

Do you have any diagrams for me to look at?
 
Yeah, I can post a pic later.
 
According to this, it could be part of my O2 sensor heater

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One computer for engine management. The PCM uses sensors to control the fuel mix, fuel injection, and timing.

The TFI (ignition) module is just for lighting off the coil. If it isn't working you won't get a spark, but it can operate independent of the main computer, you just don't get timing advance.

I would grab a TFI and throw it in.
 
One computer for engine management. The PCM uses sensors to control the fuel mix, fuel injection, and timing.

The TFI (ignition) module is just for lighting off the coil. If it isn't working you won't get a spark, but it can operate independent of the main computer, you just don't get timing advance.

I would grab a TFI and throw it in.

I finish work at Noon...will do!

As for the "Ford" ignition module tool, is it a clearance issue that won't allow me to use a regular torx screwdriver...I have those.
 
Upon testing the 6 pin connector to the Ignition Control Module...I've discovered there is no ground.

I traced the ground wire, which get's it's ground from the ECU...no ground there, static or while cranking.

Bad ECU?

Also, they mysterious Orange wire has been confirmed to connect to PIN #48 at ECU...

Are these two issues at all relative?
 
I think it's the ECU...

Ordered a KNOWN GOOD unit out of a 85 a/t Mustang 2.3L on eBay...so we'll give that a shot.

Since there wasn't much else to do, until the ECU arrives, I thought I'd start cleaning this baby up.

Got the Camper Shell off and my tool box in...already looks better.

Swept the bed and washed her! There are a bunch of old carpet remnants from the previous owner, that I'll dispose of, when the truck runs.

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I just love the wear & tear, and patina this truck has...LOVE IT!!!

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The 'ol 65...from her days in the Department of Agriculture fleet. It's a cool piece of history.

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My mistake...it wasn't Pin#48...its' Pin #49, that's the mysterious orange wire...

Looks to be a heater for the o2 sensor.

Checked Pin's 20,40 & 60 for ground, at ECU...so that's good.

Checked EEC relay, and it clicks upon switching key.

My thought's are still bad ECU, but my replacement doesn't come till tomorrow.
 

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