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my steering set-up


Crashtest84

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
260
City
Tulsa, Ok
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Manual
Ok so over the last few days, I have kinda made a modified Superrunner style steering. Don't know how well its goin to work at this point but I tried to make the outer links as long as possible. In thought if your drag link was level with your axle beam and the same length, then the rate of change on your toe in or out should never change just the camber...

Getting the passenger side the same length was pretty simple since it is shorter then the drivers side. I wasn't really able to get the drivers side link out to the axle pivot but its close and alot longer then stock. Anyway here are some pics of the fab work everything is still tack welded at this point and haven't really been able to test it yet! Im sure there is going to be some changes but the best thing is as of right now I only have about $120 in it.
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Me too! Looks great! If it works as good as it looks you should'nt have any problems.

Maybe you could get the measurements dead nuts and start fabbing them up for sale. Like for my 2wd?.......lol




Allen
 
thats great.i've been thinking of building something just like that.where did you get the bushing assemblys for the idler arm?-from a fabrication vendor?
 
Last edited:
thats great.i've been thinking of building something just like that.where did you get the bushing assemblys for the idler arm?-from a fabrication vendor?

Check out http://www.xtremecrawlers.com/catalog/ends-suspension-parts-suspension-joints-parts-c-45_74.html

That is a local guy, but he does alot of internet sales coolest guy in the world very helpful to. I got eveything but the tubing from him. I will post up all the things I used to build this later after I get it all done
 
sweet,keep us posted.by the way is that like an 8 inch system or something?those drop brackets look tall.let me know when you go solid axle i'll get up the cash for your steering:icon_cheers:
 
That's actually more like a crossover (or "swingset") style steering.

Nice work, although I would do something to eliminate the adjusting sleeve with having that bend in the tierod. Right where it necks down into the sleeve is going to be a weak spot.


BTW, it's probably better that you didn't go longer on the driverside tierod as well (better steering symmetry).
Because the actual beam pivot axis runs at about a 45° angle from the pivot bushing to the radius arm bushing, the axis is not going to be directly in front of the beam pivots anyway. Trying to match the tierod lengths only to the beam lengths would create more bumpsteer on one side than the other.
 
Well here are the pics of everything welded up and off the truck... update after driving the truck performance of the kit is great, although the poly bushing idler arm isn't going to stay on the truck I am working on making a diff arm to mount the center link on that will mount on the outside of the frame rail and only swing one way as the way I have the idler arm now it allows a lil movement " twisting of the arm " and causes a drag in the steering but I did get to take the truck wheelin yesterday and everything worked great the truck even seems to steer better then with the stock set-up

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Well, You've got the right idea and you've done a good job so far but, Your left tie rod is not long enough! It needs to pivot at the same point as the TTB. You've gone that far, why not do it right?
The Radius arm has nothing to do with the steering, only the suspension. Trying to figure in the radius arm will just screw you up. I just don't understand why some of you think that way. The tie rods need to be EXACTLY the same length as the TTBs they feed and you WILL have ZERO bumpsteer. The size of the knuckle doesn't change with the curvature of the radius arm!! As long as the tie rod pivot is fixed and in line with the TTB pivot you will have zero bumpsteer. It has been proven and over ten years in testing!

That directed at me?

I "think" that way because it is fact.
ttbsymetry.jpg



BOTH tierods actually need to be longER than the beams themselves to be on the beam's pivot axis (more so on the p-side than the d-side).

It should be working well enough if they are set at the same height as his beam pivots though.
 
Very Informative! I'll keep this in the back of my head. Maybe a project to consider once I have the means to do it.

I always hate not having a garage and/or welder at hand.....
 
something like this has been on my mind for a long time, its just a long way down on a really long list of things to do, hope it works out good, let us know the results, the only other thing I have to say is they are some really nice welds
 
good thing you don't live in michigan

MICHIGAN VEHICLE CODE (EXCERPT)
Act 300 of 1949

257.710c Bumpers; height limitations; lift blocks; prohibited modifications; construction of section; applicability; definitions.
Sec. 710c.
Para(4) All steering components shall be geometrically arranged to function as original equipment manufacture. Welded pitman arms, drag links, and tie rods are prohibited.


of course this is for on road vehicles.
 
good thing you don't live in michigan

MICHIGAN VEHICLE CODE (EXCERPT)
Act 300 of 1949

257.710c Bumpers; height limitations; lift blocks; prohibited modifications; construction of section; applicability; definitions.
Sec. 710c.
Para(4) All steering components shall be geometrically arranged to function as original equipment manufacture. Welded pitman arms, drag links, and tie rods are prohibited.


of course this is for on road vehicles.
So even the Superlift Superunner setup is illegal?
 

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