• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

My "new" 93 ranger


Here is the latest. The washers are in, but the camber was thrown off. I think i got the camber back in with the stock bushings maxed out, but that threw the toe out. Toe is back in by eyeball...now i need an alignment. Unfortunately those stupid 10" rims are not made for 31" tires, and the tires are rubbing on the bumper when i corner white hitting a bump. I have decided to put the 31's on the stock 9" rims.

ranger017.jpg
 
I think i will do a body lift now, since i need the space for the front tires and the front body mounts are junk anyways. Any recommendations on a 2" lift?
 
If you have access to a welder, make one. Get some pipe and washers and weld them together.

Then you would just need extenders for your steering and shifting I think.
 
well since the bumper is rubbing i think that needs brackets. I am having a hard time visualizing a body lift......i always thought it was just taller body mounts but apparently not? Do i need to buy the lift AND new body mounts?
 
It might just be the size of your tire that's making it rub, although 31's SHOULD fit on a 4x4 3rd gen IIRC..

What a body lift essentially is, are spacers that go where your body mounts currently are. I think you would need to get longer bolts (grade 8) and extensions for shifter (I think) and steering (I think). I was going to do a body lift, but I decided to go the stock-street route since I'm only in a 2wd Ranger.
 
well since the bumper is rubbing i think that needs brackets. I am having a hard time visualizing a body lift......i always thought it was just taller body mounts but apparently not? Do i need to buy the lift AND new body mounts?

yes, you need to buy new body mounts and the body lift. they make a "taller body mount" body lift.....but their for jeeps and its only a 1" lift. I bet if you ran the stock rims and put on new body mounts you'd be fine. I have the 1.5" rough country coils and 31x10.5s with a more aggressive tread pattern than the bfg at's and they only rub at full lock on the swaybar.
 
Thanks, I had looked at those a while back but forgot about the tire fitment one. I think the reason it is rubbing is 10" rims and stretching the tire sidewalls out too wide, and also the body mounts and tired and sinking in the front. I believe 1" of washers gives you 1.5" of lift....so its cutting it close but it should still fit.
 
ranger020.jpg


No rubbing now that they are on stock rims, looks 10x better too!:yahoo:

This pretty much concludes work on this for now, as i have an inspection sticker, reg, insurance, and everything seems to be running fine. Ive already hauled a bunch of things that were waiting for this to be a driver.

Overall i spent approx $1500, including the price of the truck, parts, and an alignment/tire swap. I have alot of hours into it....which i don't want to tally because then it would be a very expensive truck LOL. I think thats decent considering it has 118k on it and should last a long time.

Not a very interesting build thread i know....taking a stock ranger and just making it drivable and inspectable, but i figured i would capture the process at least for my own enjoyment.

Future plans are:

New y-pipe to stop leak and bumping exaust
New body mounts and 2" body lift
Repair of crack in windshield
Dif fluid change
 
There's a method to bleeding the clutch that works every time. But you have to take the master and the line off of the truck and bleed it off of the truck. I went through hell with the clutch on mine once. It would not bleed no matter what I did. I tried all of the tricks and tips that I found on here (I used to have another account on here 6-7 years ago or something, apparently it got deleted, anyway). I finally took the whole deal off of the truck and bled it with it off (you have to leave the line hooked to the master cylinder) and it worked like a charm. That was about 6 or 7 years ago. It still works perfect.
 
Ford bulletin #93-12-19

ISSUE:
A "soft" unresponsive clutch pedal may be felt or the driver may be unable to release the clutch. This is caused by air entrapped in the clutch hydraulic system.

ACTION:
Use the information in this TSB article in addition to the bleed procedure specified in the 1993 Service Manual. This article includes detail as well as extra service tips for easier hydraulic clutch bleeding.

The clutch hydraulic system for the 1993 model year is new and more difficult to bleed than the previous hydraulic system. Therefore, a different bleeding procedure is required for these vehicles.


RANGER, EXPLORER, AEROSTAR

The most difficult systems to bleed are on the Rangers, Explorers and Aerostars. Follow the bleed procedure as outlined in the 1993 Service Manual, This procedure with the addition of the bench bleed process is included in this TSB article.

NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING DRY CLUTCH CYLINDER OR TUBE SERVICE PARTS, DO THE BENCH BLEED PROCEDURE FIRST.




BENCH BLEED

The compact vehicles are more difficult to bleed because the downward angle of the master cylinder makes it difficult for air to escape up into the reservoir. Therefore, if the master cylinder is removed from the vehicle and bled while held in a vertical orientation (a bench bleed) air can escape much more efficiently.

BENCH BLEEDING PROCEDURE (CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER)


1. Remove master cylinder, line and reservoir from vehicle and assemble with replacement parts required based on initial concern.
2. Hold the master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed hose in the highest position on the body,
3. Fill the reservoir and extend above the master cylinder and assure the quick connect on the clutch line is below the master cylinder. (Lightly clamp reservoir in a vice).
4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male quick connect coupling to open the valve,
5. Stroke and hold master cylinder pushrod.
6. Close quick connect valve.
7. Release master cylinder pushrod.
8. Fill reservoir.
Repeat Steps 4 through 8 four more times.
9. With the master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube and reservoir feed tube ends high, quick connect closed and the reservoir full, proceed as follows:
10. Push the pushrod into the body several times quickly to expel any remaining air.
If it is a remote reservoir, pinch the supply hose with your fingers two or three times to help move air into reservoir.
When the movement of the pushrod is .160" (4mm) or less when stroked in Step 10, reinstall the master cylinder into the vehicle and couple it to the slave cylinder.

ON VEHICLE BLEED PROCEDURE, CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER

Under normal conditions, disconnecting the clutch coupling will not introduce air into the system. However, if there appears to be air in the system (spongy pedal or insufficient bearing travel), the system must be bled. The following procedure is used with the hydraulic system installed on the vehicle.


1. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission with a coupling disconnect tool (T88T70522A) or equivalent by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the clutch tube.
2. Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.
3. Remove cap and diaphragm and fill reservoir to the step with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid (C6AZ-19542-AA or BA) (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.
CAUTION: BRAKE FLUID MUST BE CERTIFIED TO DOT 3 SPECIFICATION.



4. By hand, apply 10-15 lbs. to clutch pedal.
If pedal is hard (.25-.50 "movement), skip to Step 9.
If pedal is spongy, proceed to the next step.
5. Using a small screwdriver....
Depress the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the valve.
6. While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.
7. Remove the screwdriver from the coupling, closing the valve.
8. Release the clutch pedal.
9. Refill the reservoir to level at step.
NOTE: THE RESERVOIR MUST BE KEPT FULL AT ALL TIMES TO ENSURE THAT THERE WILL BE NO ADDITIONAL INTRODUCTION OF AIR INTO THE SYSTEM.



Repeat Steps 4 through 7.
Install cap on reservoir.
Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder.
Check that the connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.
Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for five to ten strokes.
Wait one to three minutes.
Repeat Steps 10 and 11 three more times.
Loosen the bleed screw which is located in the slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection.
Depress and hold the clutch pedal while tightening the bleed screw 3-5 N-m (2.2-3.7 lb-ft).
Refill the reservoir to level at step.
The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch. Check the clutch reserve per the instruction in the 1993 Service Manual, Section 08-00.

F-SERIES, BRONCO

Since full size vehicles have master cylinders which are mounted in a level attitude, they bleed more efficiently than do compact vehicles. However, some difficulties may still be encountered if the new procedure is not used.


VEHICLES WITH CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDERS

The procedure given in the Service Manual on page 08-00-9 is incorrect. Use the same bleed procedure as specified for the compact vehicles which is included in this article. The optional bench bleed procedure may be used, but is probably not necessary.


VEHICLES WITH EXTERNAL SLAVE CYLINDERS

The procedure in the 1993 Service Manual should be modified as follows:

Do not use the Alternate Method.
After Step 7 and before Step 8, do the following...
Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission.
Holding the cylinder so that the port for the tube is at the highest point, slowly push the pushrod into the cylinder and slowly let it return. Be sure the reservoir is full of fluid beforehand. Repeat this step two more times.
Reattach the slave cylinder to the transmission.
Rapidly depress the clutch pedal 10 times through a travel of about 1" (25.4mm).
If the pedal is not hard within .25" (6.35mm) to .5" (12.7mm) of travel, repeat Step d.
 
Last edited:
I want a ranger for $600! That's a lot of rust converter / black paint. Thank Jeebus I'm not in that rust belt! Haha... *points & laughs at northern truck owners & their shackle problems*

Seriously though, it looks like a fun project. I still miss my RBV.


Just curious though, how much were you thinking of selling the B2?


Pete
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top