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My idea of a Shelby Ranger if there would have been one.


I didnt get time last night to reply, but i was going to tell you that the opperation of the fpr sounds correct. I belive the way that they are setup is, is under vac, the fpr is off, and as you rev, and vac is reduced, the fpr opens up, and adds pressure and fuel into the loop.

The best way to explain would be on an older carborated car. Take a car with a big vacume leak, and it runs rough at idle, and prob smokes, and is running rich. But take it up the road, and hold it wide open, it starts to clean up and run right (better). Reason being, its finnaly using enough fuel to catch up, and clean itself out. The same basic idea (I belive) happens in an efi motor. I know the way the egr valves work the same way too. With full vacume, the valve is close, and not allowing gasses through, and with it open (no vac) it is letting exhaust back into the intake.

Lol, out of time for a few mins, ill get to the ideas later. Un-fortunatly unless the fpr was just running sluggish with that stuff in it, it prob wont fix your issue. Have you checked the fuel filter itself??

The fuel pump is new along with the filter.. Last time it ran Rich it was the FPR... I am hoping the crud let more fuel by than needed.. Oh the injectors are all closing.. It held a lot of pressure after about 15 min of sitting.. Thanks for all the info and help!!
 
I watch a program on TV that was sponsored by Seafoam, and they said on it to use a 3rd in a vac. line and the rest in the tank , that was what I was going to do, but the vac line I pulled sucked it up so fast that I didnt have time to pull it out before the can was empty.

I also thought I screwed her truck up, but after taking it down the road awhile it cleared up and ran a bunch better.

have you ever tryed it in the oil ??? I was thinking about useing about a 3rd can in the oil when I was close to the time to have the oil changed.


Robert

I hope you get the truck running good soon, I would love to see the burn out vidio with the old set of tires on it.

I found the Seafoam Video on YouTube yesterday... I never used it in anything but this truck... I let a vac line suck it up same as you did. I bought some Chevron Techron since I read it was really good stuff and it was buy 1 get one free at Autozone.... A guy who owed me a favor seafoamed the 89 back a few years ago.. Made a huge difference in that one... He put it in a pressure tube and injected it in somehow or the other.... I have used Marvel Mystery Oil with good results in gas and oil...
 
The fuel pump is new along with the filter.. Last time it ran Rich it was the FPR... I am hoping the crud let more fuel by than needed.. Oh the injectors are all closing.. It held a lot of pressure after about 15 min of sitting.. Thanks for all the info and help!!

Ok, any line on a temp gun so you can see if you can see if you have a funky injector??? A cold cylinder is what you are looking for, as the extra fuel will keep that one cooler than the rest. I think you can put voltmeter on them and test to see what ohm they are at too, to make sure that one isint on the light side, or over active. And just because its holding pressure, dosent mean its right. If you have an injector that is stuck closed, the o2 will pick up the problem, and make the other working injectors flood the other two cylinders on that bank.

You can test to see if the injectors are firing with a stethoscope. Set it on the injector, and you should hear a metal click of the valve opening to fire. If they all click, they should all be squirting some.

Next is to test the ohm's the injectors are at. Pull the plug off the injector, with the truck off, and probe both prongs on the injectors with a volt meter in the ohm setting. They all should read pretty close to the same all around. If one is reading a higher ohm (or lower) than the others, you found the problem(s), and can just replace said injector. There is a way to test the harness with the meter on volts, but I cant remember it atm.
 
That, and the injectors should be ohm tested hot and cold, to see if they are loading up with heat also. With the problem occuring when it is warm, they might test fine cold, and not when hot.
 
That, and the injectors should be ohm tested hot and cold, to see if they are loading up with heat also. With the problem occuring when it is warm, they might test fine cold, and not when hot.

One question. If the truck ran the exact same without the vac line then what is the point in having a vac line connected? I ran it from cold to hot without it connected... no difference what so ever in the way it ran.
 
One question. If the truck ran the exact same without the vac line then what is the point in having a vac line connected? I ran it from cold to hot without it connected... no difference what so ever in the way it ran.

You might have another leak somewhere then. Have you sprayed the engine down with something like brake clean to see if you get a surge in idle??? Do you have a vac gauge you can reference?? The 4.0 should be pulling somewhere between 18-21hg at idle (I belive). If its not atleast over 10, there is a leak or a line issue.

Edit: Looks like most 4.0's are 15-22hg at idle, so check that. But the better the vac, the better in my opinion.
 
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Well I put the new FPR on and


:headbang::headbang::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::icon_hornsup::yahoo:
IMG_0568.jpg

Thanks for all the info and help Silver!!!
 
Well I put the new FPR on and


:headbang::headbang::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::icon_hornsup::yahoo:
Thanks for all the info and help Silver!!!

Awesome man! Glad it was that simple!! I hate messing with injectors, and I only know what I do cause I had to do it on my 2.3 in my old Merkur. Glad you didnt have to go and do what I did!!
 
Last night after getting the ole code 111 Took her for a spin filled up with gas went out to eat!! Good times was had by all... Then the effin CEL flashed on... Code 173 again..
Needless to say spent all day pulling the intake and injectors out... I soaked the injectors in Sea Foam for an hour or more.. Filled the intake with TB cleaner. Got a new gasket set for the fuel rail... Cleaned the holes where the injectors go.Sprayed the hell out of the lower intake holes. Put it all back together Torqued the lower intake ect...and wait for it... Wait for it... Code 173... again..
So frustrated and cussing like a sailor I switched the Snapon scanner to Data and watched the values... O2 was pretty high in Millivolts... Then after running a little longer the MVs dropped to very low.. Didn't recheck to see if the code was there but I shut her down cleared the codes drove her over 60 miles and no CEL and she ran really good!!
Oh yeah I checked all the Ohms on the Injectors... All were the same and all had a ticking sound through the stethoscope... If the code is there tomorrow I wonder if the freakin new FPR went south for the winter....
 
Last night after getting the ole code 111 Took her for a spin filled up with gas went out to eat!! Good times was had by all... Then the effin CEL flashed on... Code 173 again..
Needless to say spent all day pulling the intake and injectors out... I soaked the injectors in Sea Foam for an hour or more.. Filled the intake with TB cleaner. Got a new gasket set for the fuel rail... Cleaned the holes where the injectors go.Sprayed the hell out of the lower intake holes. Put it all back together Torqued the lower intake ect...and wait for it... Wait for it... Code 173... again..
So frustrated and cussing like a sailor I switched the Snapon scanner to Data and watched the values... O2 was pretty high in Millivolts... Then after running a little longer the MVs dropped to very low.. Didn't recheck to see if the code was there but I shut her down cleared the codes drove her over 60 miles and no CEL and she ran really good!!
Oh yeah I checked all the Ohms on the Injectors... All were the same and all had a ticking sound through the stethoscope... If the code is there tomorrow I wonder if the freakin new FPR went south for the winter....

Hey multi, did you end up changing your O2 sensors? I wonder if one of them is pooched...

PS: "Jammer" is back on it's own feet again, but tomorrow I get to diagnose a draw and high idle... woo...
 
well seems like your almost their with finding the problem man keep plugging away an your gonna get it got any more pics of your truck its so sweet
 
Well I am no closer to having it figured out than I was days ago.She is still getting 173... I have checked every damn thing I know to check. Wierd thing is it runs really good and is getting pretty dang good fuel mileage.... I have a few more things to check but after that I am at a loss... I am wondering if the o2 could be bad or contaminated???
 

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