My idea of a Shelby Ranger if there would have been one.

[MountainMike]

Thanks Mike! I found out how to get the LP to you.. It's cheap to send it.. As soon as I get a chance I'll get it up to you...

wicked!

Keep me posted.

 

[multiranger]

sounds like a bad o2 or a frayed wire on the sensor and its grounding out.

the o2 is cheap enough.

The wires are good.. I checked the TPS with my Snap on scanner.. All looks good with it.. I could have sworn you could see the 02 work on the scanner but damn if I could find it.. I know you could on a dodge.. (I was a Dodge/Hyndai tech in another life) I cleaned the 02 but nothing.. I got it to go lean once... but she is back to rich I'd like to see rich center lean just once!

 

[multiranger]

Just pulled the Vac line from the Fuel Regulator.. No real change in the way it ran.... A bad fuel regulator would cause it to run rich..

 

[RangerFabWorks]

Just pulled the Vac line from the Fuel Regulator.. No real change in the way it ran.... A bad fuel regulator would cause it to run rich..

i thought that only worked if you were on the gas??

maybe thats because that how it was on the *cough*eagle talon*cough* i worked on.

man i hate that car with a passion.

 

[multiranger]

i thought that only worked if you were on the gas??

maybe thats because that how it was on the *cough*eagle talon*cough* i worked on.

man i hate that car with a passion.

It's been so long I honestly don't remember.. I saw one of those cars total out with not a dent nor scratch on it.. Some jackass comitted suicide in it. He was in it for two weeks in the Ga sun mid July windows up. OMG it smelled! I hated working on them too!! Well I pulled the FR.. It is holding vac. and it seems to be functioning right (bench testing it). The 4.0 did the same thing about 10 years ago and the fix was the FR. I did get a lot of rust particles out.. I sprayed the crap out of it with wd 40 and TB cleaner followed by brake cleaner... She is still Rich... I am thinking the o2 at this point... I am open to suggestions!!

 

[multiranger]

The more I think about the FPR the more confused I get.. So I am going to throw everything I know about mine out here.. I hope someone can shed light on it. here we go.

1. if you stick a small screwdriver down in the top it is very hard to push down
same as Vac pulling it down. (I don't see it being enough it is so hard )
2. if you fill the top portion with cleaner it doesn't run out till you put vac on it...
3. As long as there is no Vac you can't blow air from top threaded to bottom where rubber seal is...
4. Vac is greatest at idle so how the hell does it pour more fuel to the engine at higher RPMs as opposed to Idle if no fuel can get past without vac...
5. If you put vac on the FPR it does hold...

I hope this makes sense...
So is the FPR good or bad?? At 88 bucks I don't want to guess

 

[multiranger]

Well I thought I had it figured out but I don't... I thought it was a stuck open injector but turns out it holds pressure after shut down?? So if it holds pressure could it possibly still be the FPR? At this point I am leaning towards O2 sensor

 

[Kyle M.]

Have you pulled the codes yet?? I would recommend doing that before you start swapping parts.

Just do the simple jumper and count the check engine light pulses, like this
Click link--> http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

 

[multiranger]

Have you pulled the codes yet?? I would recommend doing that before you start swapping parts.

Just do the simple jumper and count the check engine light pulses, like this
Click link--> http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

Code 173 running rich

 

[Kyle M.]

Ooops, missed that, sorry!

Have you cleaned your MAF? Do you have an open air filter element? Did you ever do anything with your injectors (change them from factory)?

Sorry, you have a lot of pages, I may have missed some, but I have more ideas if you are interesed.

 

[multiranger]

Ooops, missed that, sorry!

Have you cleaned your MAF? Do you have an open air filter element? Did you ever do anything with your injectors (change them from factory)?

Sorry, you have a lot of pages, I may have missed some, but I have more ideas if you are interesed.

Everything is stock except TB... Maf has been cleaned twice... The motor has been sitting for about 8 or 9 years... I am interested in whatever ideas you have.. My guess is it is either the o2 or the FPR.. Voltage does change on the o2 if it matters...

 

[Silver talon84]

Everything is stock except TB... Maf has been cleaned twice... The motor has been sitting for about 8 or 9 years... I am interested in whatever ideas you have.. My guess is it is either the o2 or the FPR.. Voltage does change on the o2 if it matters...

Just because the voltage changes, doesnt mean its in the proper range. I've seen a few, and heard of alot, that "test" ok, but when replaced, cure the problem, Also, you have a better chance of catching the 02 reading wrong if your engine is acting up, so try and get it hot, and then test it, you may find that with heat, the o2 is loading up and might read a higher restance than when cold. Try that and see what happens.

Do you have a digital temp gauge, like a laser one??? If so, on a cold morning, start it up, and let it idle, and see if you have a cylinder getting hotter or staying colder than the others, and it will help tell you if the fuel issue is across the board, or a peticular cylinder.

Just a few thoughts.

 

[multiranger]

Just because the voltage changes, doesnt mean its in the proper range. I've seen a few, and heard of alot, that "test" ok, but when replaced, cure the problem, Also, you have a better chance of catching the 02 reading wrong if your engine is acting up, so try and get it hot, and then test it, you may find that with heat, the o2 is loading up and might read a higher restance than when cold. Try that and see what happens.

Do you have a digital temp gauge, like a laser one??? If so, on a cold morning, start it up, and let it idle, and see if you have a cylinder getting hotter or staying colder than the others, and it will help tell you if the fuel issue is across the board, or a peticular cylinder.

Just a few thoughts.

Great Info! It's hot when I test it.. The MV on the 02 does get higher as the engine gets hotter... I haven't tested the Temp on the header tubes latley but in the beginning # 3 on bank 2 had a Injector stuck closed.. The last time I looked it seems like #2 on bank 2 was hotter.. I'll check it again this weekend.. I wish I knew how the FPR works.. Something just doesn't seem right from my bench test..

 

[Robert_1967]

I my self would love to know how to test a FPR, I changed mine to see if it would help it and so far no help.




Robert

 

[multiranger]

I my self would love to know how to test a FPR, I changed mine to see if it would help it and so far no help.




Robert

Mine seems to do the opposite of what I think it should do..

Looks to me like Vac should help keep less fuel from entering and as the RPMS climb and vac decreeses it opens up to allow more fuel...
My test confirmed no Vac = No fuel allowed to pass through. (I filled the top with TB cleaner) Also seemed like it took a lot of vac to move the diaphram. way more than any engine could allow... I am so confused on how it works I don't even know how to describe my theory... The Injectors aren't the culprit I don't think simply cause pressure was still on the fuel rail after 10 seconds shut off... It's driving me crazy!